Routes in Australia for selected grade

Start and finish as for ‘Slugs on the wall’. Move up to left hand slot and right hand flat side pull. Yeet to the break and mantle over. No feet on the wall to the right.

a few metres R of piss point. natural gear, smallish cams and a couple of #2-3 nuts give adequate protection down low until you get into the business up higher with a couple of rings to get you there. Anchors for top roping. This climb is a must!

Tough line finishing on the lip of the first cave. Up past 3 bolts then move out left and then straight out roof.

Start on "Omega Free" but go straight up after 3rd bolt to lower off "Fishermans Basket"

Start 2m right of Omega free, straight up to Fisherman Basket anchours.

Start on the face left of the block. Out roof then traverse left to anchors on Roast Lobster.

Start ontop of block at right end of cave, out past 4 bolts the hard move out right over lip to lower off at top.

Intense traverse across wall from L to R, finishing up Larks Tongue.

Match start on flat wall at back of cave facing water side, moving out on large pocket jugs on right wall before reaching back into the crimp rail and moving out and mantling the lip.

Slap the big sloper then punch directly back out and around the lip to a bad pocket then back rightish via various bad crimps and edges to finish at the break above. The big slot to the left is off for hands. Classic hardy

Start: Sit start below sloper under lip

Starting on the top break at the end of Broken Soldier Boy, follow the fine line of solid holds through the sea of choss topping out the boulder walking off left before the mini overhang.

WARNING. Be very carefully especially higher up where a lot of the solid looking holds are quite loose and will break off quite easily

The most obvious line up the middle of the wall. Stand start on an incut rail. Following the series of edges up to the big pocket feature high up before topping out further right.

The right end of the wall. Sit start on a low rail with back wall out for feet. Bust out to small left hand edge and make your way up to the jug. Drop off, has the opportunity to top out.

Lie down start on jugs under the arete at the end of the wall. Traverse left to the sloper shelf and up via right pinch and a knee bar to jugs under mini roof and topout. Shares start holds with Mini Lobster, but traverses left at start.

Lie down start matched on the knobby structure in the middle of the sector. Right heel hook to start and continue straight up to a high top out on jugs. First move hardest move.

Start on decent left side pull on the left face and right hand on arete, straight up to edge with a fun mantle.

Sit start under the small prow on the low left hand crimp and right hand low on the sloper rail. Right heel up and continue directly up the prow and mantle in the little cavelet.

Ledges and back wall for feet are not in. One of the best lowballs going.

As for Will o'the Wasp , at 4 metres move right to double bolt belay in back of cave. Crux climb the overhang and short hard wall above

The orange overhanging open book corner to the L of the wet cave. The hardest part is keeping your feet dry on the bottom of the route.

Sit start on the jug lip and head directly out the cavlet through some jug before encountering a crimpy crux and huck to the lip. Top out slight left beside the boulder.Back ledge isnt in

Start under the overhanging arete, crimp your way up to slopey rails and reachy moves to top-out high and right on the face.

Sit start matched on a rail just right of the arete, climb directly up the face on scattered small holds. Finish as per Chicama, up high.

A slightly overhung boulder with safe landings. Start on a ledge on the far left on the boulder, then the big move to a slight break before the lip then traverse along the iron band then top out. The block to the left and the bottom plate are out.

Start 1-2m left of Paraplegic and head more directly towards lip of cave and join 'Paraplegic'. Should be done with lots of mats and some good spotters at avoid falling on the sacrificial altar, otherwise known as the Widow Maker.

Hard variant: Finish on 'Persistence Resistance' (unknown)

Starting way down in the Veranda take the line of least resistance through the roof coming down and through the low eliminate block and reversing the 'Low Traverse' finally finishing up 'Love Jugs'. 50+ moves of awesomeness and probably around a 26ish as a sport route.

Starts left of Power Pergolas. Very thin and powerful.

Eliminate the lay away block on power pergolas

Sit start and up easily along obvious left diagonal to hideous mantle.

Start on the smiley hold, up left then desperate mantle over top, staying out of 'Gutted'.

Sit start as for Penrith by the sea and traverse the lip all the way to finish as for slippery nipple.

Stand start in the double hueco ledge and go straight up – use the "victory" hold out right as per 'Gobshite'.

Sit start on the ramp, sloper traverse up and left to mantle into the scoop.

Sit start at the horn. Out to the lip to finish on the edges.

The first route you come to after the walk down. Tough boulder problem after second bolt.

Sit start with left hand on left hand sloper and right hand on right side sloper. Move directly up to jug then to the left crimp and sloper. Use the small pocket on the far left to top out.

Start as for Re-entry moving left from the jug along crimps to finish Decompression

Sit start low on bulge matched on side-pulls around either side, follow seam up and to gain crimps on the face and proceed to top out towards the highest point of the boulder.

Starting on the sloper rail between Shai Hulud and SSSS find easy pinch before moving onto sloping crimps, stand up tall with poor arete side pull to finish up on highest point of the boulder past no hands slab.

Start matched on brain hold shared with SSSS, move left using rail and jug into crack. Finish same as Shai-Hulud.

Sit start with RH on lowest side pull, LH on small crotch height rail 2ft out left, move up RH side pulls into top out.

Stand start variant of 'Tight Crack'.

Start on the Arrete, head up the face left of the arrete. Theres a hidden crimp.

Stand start on underclings near the back wall, then bust out on pockets and slopers to top out around the right side of the ship's prow.

The fallen bloc that's destroyed Riley's arete and is also just to the left of it. Sit start on the right hand pocket and left hand edge and climb up the narrow prow on pockets and slopers to top out (trying not to dab).

Not so obvious section of rock with tiny crimps. Stand Stand start and go straight up.

Another route from the industrial revolution.

Start: 1m right of 'Dingo'

Starts 2m R of 'Bill Collins', and finishes at anchors of the extended version of 'Gidget Verdon'. Quite varied climbing for a wall and loads of finger shredding fun.

Start 4m R of HH, and tackle scoop, dyno then Hulk down on some nice slopers

Start 2m left of Backstabbing Cousins. Short powerful crimpy wall. Harder than it looks. Engage beast mode to do the crux move.

Sit start on the slopey rail, bust straight up with some big moves on good holds until you reach the rooflet. Traverse left a tad, then tackle the slopey topout.

Tyrone Clements

Start 1m left of the scoop at the base of the obvious pockets an breaks. Up via pockets, rib and an edge. Both foot ledges are off. Desperate.

Reach up and grab the big jug in the break on the right side of the overhang. Blast out and left via slopers and pinches to a powerful contorting press. The break below the finish of Golden Fleece is off. Check out the futuristic sit start. Absolute classic.

Sit start at the bottom left of the large break, move right to a side pulling jug and then bust straight up using a two finger pocket, a slopey right hand and a bad left foot. Pretty fun one move wonder with some neat holds.

Start low in compression on a right hand crimp and left sloper. Climb straight up. Super morpho but fun for the tall.

Pleasant climbing through juggy pinches to a heinous mantle crux

Batman 🦇 start. Fantastic steep climbing into the roof. It faces west however because of the steepness it is shadey most of the day.

Sit Start on undercling and dyno to start slots of 'Hour of the Horn'. Right hand to jug then dynamic move to slot. Make your way through the slopers to finish on the horn. All holds on 'The Hourglass' are out.

Link 'Blue Lou' into 'Hour of the Horn'. Adds a little bit of pump to the original.

Start left hand sloper pinch right hand crimp side pull. Move straight up to finish on highest rail. Early crux.

Hard slabbing in the middle.

Stays dry! Easiest to walk in from top, opposite corner of Lugarno Parade and Fir Pl, walk 40m south the cliffedge, and down diagonal dirty gully, then left facing downhill to cave. This route crosses 2 of the old aid lines. Start off ledge and interestingly establish yourself above the bulge to a rising traverse and single bolt anchor at the lip of the roof. Back drop a couple of bolts to clean.

Hard off the deck on old school chipped pockets to an easier finish

Start under the roof slighty left of the arete. Make a couple of big moves out past jug at the lip to base of the arete and then straight up where an amazingly huge 'thread' jug awaits.

Z Swan

Obvious finger crack, rap rings over the lip.

LH variant of ‘Failure is your Friend’ Interesting boulder finisish.

A DF to expectorant or start up anticoagulant, the pinch out right is on (rebolted 2008)

This one is for the hard nuts,it was once the hardest trad line in shire, and possibly NSW. Start: Below the thin seam, tenuous moves up the groove to lower off chain at half height or easily to top up anything nearby. Take small gear.

Short arete right of WB&D. Energetic starting moves with a delicate finish.

“It’s so evil and lemon scented” Long move to start then layback to break. Finish up tough wall with super sloping topout. Friction is your friend!

Up wall, roof, and shallow corner 10m L of Hobbit Corner.

Start as for Slap My Blues Away and at the anchors pull the lip and begin to trend slightly left. (to avoid drag while getting lowered off and working the route unclip last bolt before the anchors)

(link up) Endurance Test Piece! Start as for Slap My Blues Away and instead of pulling the lip keep traversing the entire length of the flake, finish up Family Ties. Long draws and slings help for rope drag.

(link up) Start as for family Ties and once you are established on the flake features traverse right for a couple of bolts and finish up Bird Bath Blues. Can start up Ancestry for slightly softer variant.

Sit start on right corner of boulder. Move left into big scoop. Straight up to top out

One of the hardest routes in the Shire and appears to have thwarted every attempt at a repeat. Start as for LB, continue on a direct line to the top (if you can). There has been two variant methods that have been done - (26) FA CT ignore third bolt and climb left to good jug on Lean Beef Now DYNO up and right to join back into line. There is also a (25) option. Climb to third RB, then traverse right to arete (left side of Offalwdith). Up a few moves then traverse back left (reachy) into line. Top out finish no anchors . Bolted from mixed trad by LW.

The easier alternative to quadruple bypass, for those who can’t dyno! Start as QB, go to left pocket to reach nice holds, traverse left then go right hand in nice gaston to finish as QB and TB. V6ish?