Routes in Tasmania for selected grade

Climbs the blank face to the L of the upper section of SE. Contrived.

The classic of the crag

If you're too short to do the Anaphalaxis dyno then use the good initial hold to move left to bolt and then up to the horizontal break and finish as for Anaphalaxis.

At the final overlap on WD make a tricky move right to join the crack. Past a U-bolt then to the WD Chains.

A good fingery traverse starts at the two finger pocket about 5m right of the start of PE and continues via pockety moves to SE. When the start of SE is reached, do the first tricky move of SE to reach the horizontal. Do about one move along the horizontal to the right from where your feet can reach the nice footholds on JJ and then get down onto the holds of JJ. There is a nice layaway pointing left and then a shallow pocket. From here continue right past A to finish at the start of PL. The traverse can also be done in reverse. Try and link up both directions if you don't feel the effects of lactic acid. Also there are extensions on either end.

Jack Jumper

Start as for Lets Play Twister, climb this to juggy pocket then traverse the crag via start hold of Nice for What and crimps till you join The Deepest Sighs, climb this to the top.

The classic traverse along the base of the quarry. Start far right on "The Blind Leading the Crippled" and traverse left for 50m+, with three distinct cruxes until under the dog-leg crack (Justin's Crack). If your into "adventure bouldering" keep going and top it out on the lefthand side of the quarry.

Traverse the entire cliff from left to right.

The crag test piece. Start 2m R of 'Les Grands Ensembles', at R end of rooflet. 7 FHs, though hanger on 1st is missing (nongs!) NOTE 1st bolt now U-bolt (2017). Chains shared with 'LGE' & 'Serial Driller'.

The first 10m is gear protected, the remaining is fully bolted.

No natural gear required. Access from the top of the mountain is probably easiest.

1. 20m 25 Start 5m up the gully left of Cornered and Wootang, with belay bolts on left. Climb the face and arête to a ledge and DBB (as for Cornered).

2. 25m 19 Step right from the belay and ascend the blocky corner/arête system past many FH and the final U-bolt of Wootang. Either belay at the Wootang DBB and descend by abseil from here, or continue past another FH to the ledge above with the top DBB.

A dedication to Lois Scarr. Start on the right-hand side of the wide face above the ledge at a DBB. Layaways on the face for the first 10m (crux) lead to a small ledge, continue up the face above to a DBB on the ledge at 35m. A short pitch (18) past one FH provides access to the top DBB if required. A. Williams, Oct 2002.

A fun little sport climb starting 5m R of Remembrance and climbing to the same anchor. Climb up and into shallow R facing corner, continue up to steep bulge. Jugs lead to good side-pulls on the face above. Step back L to lower-off.

Trickier if you are short. However is defo 25.

Mostly sport route up the prominent arete left of Fiddlesticks. Start at the base of Fiddlesticks, and move left to arete (wire and small cam) to gain line of u-bolts. Balancy arete climbing on great rock. You'll probably place another wire & small cam up high before gaining a DBB.

Best done as one pitch however, the easier first pitch to this ultra classic is an excellent route in its own right.

1. 25m (22). Straight up the face just R of Fiddlesticks. A crimpy crux to get off the ground, then flow up the rest with pleasant moves.

2. 25m (25). Continue up the line of bolts to the anchors. Crux is just past the third bolt.

Start at the bottom of the face moving towards the R arête after 10 m and back L to a hanging belay.

The second pitch was climbed at 27 by moving into Brown Madonna at 2/3 height. Nowadays rarely done as Pleasant Screams Direct is a significantly better option.

The tall overhanging column to the right of Brown Madonna, 60m single pitch route, sustained arete climbing as good as it gets. Take a no.1 camalot to avoid a runout at about 3/4 height. 19 quickdraws plus rap chains

1 30m 25, 20 bolts 2 20m 24, 15 bolts

Rap in from two carrots (hangerless expansion bolts) at head of the amphitheatre. Goes on gear with one carrot. Two FHs for belay.

Start up Resurrection Shuffle until you can traverse right to the finger crack. Tight finger jamming leads to the top.

Starting on the right side of the chasm, follow seams (wires) to bolts on face. Traverse right into (somewhat concerning) undercling flake after clipping the 3rd bolt, then blast up the right arete past 3 more bolts to the top.

Climb the super thin crack, passing a small overlap at the bottom. No loweroffs so take a biner for the last bolt if there's not one already there.

The bolted arête to the left of Dyazide and right of Great Southern Land, starting from the ledge at half height.

Short finger and laback crack below Endorphin. A couple of bouldery moves, small/medium wire protects the middle.

Ends on ledge, or link into Endorphin!

Possibly 24 if your tall with small fingers.

Absorbing climbing. An old aid line that was freed in fine style. The second crack left of Adolf. The thin crack up the striped wall. Climb the crack with increasing difficulty. Small cams required.

The way to do it. Climb via both the Direct Start (25) past 2 bolts, and the Direct Finish (25) past another bolt. DRB.

Start in the hollow below the left arete of The Horn. Move up to delicate moves on the arete and the top jugs. The stand start is a grade easier.

Same start as Period of Transition, but head left and up the slopers.

The belly of the incredible, near horizontal pillar. Hang start at the back of the column using the obvious sloper on the left and right hand low on the ok slopey rail on the right. Get a heel up and climb out the column, topping out at the very end by pinching your way up the arête to gain the lip.

Thin vertical cracks up face. Originally Stand (v3), now sit.

Sitstart on rail then right around arete on slopes then up. Dont use jugs at top until the finish

Sit start.

Start left hand on low sidepull, right hand on the nice crimp rail. Then climb to the top keeping to the line of the arete.

Sit start on the jug, move along to and over the tip

Up the 45 degree overhung side of the obvious dildo.

This tall boulder is approximately 20m downhill from Ringside, but is quite hard to see from above. Up the slopey rail to the top.

Sit start with feet on ramp and left hand on low sidepulls, right hand on far right slopers. Climb straight out via compression following both opposing aretes. Finish by mantling over nose. Great steep problem!

Sit start in middle of the face, head straight up via tricky moves

On the boulder below the lookout boulder. Stand start.

Start under bulge left of tree. Left and up to great hold. V3 if you start with right hand above the bulge.

Start crouched, both hands on back wall of grotty cave. Undercling/jamb/layback/twist etc to come up and out of cave, across the gap, and finish up the right-hand wall.

Start on good hold under bulge, move to lip hold and slopers. Transcend gravity. Stand start goes at about V3/4

Start under cave on good jugs, right slap then to slopers, technical knee bar using nubin on the right then directly up. The nice sloper hold next to the nubin is off route and probably doesn't help anyway.

Start in easy crack then link through into 'Adi kodrat'

The prow R of Short, Sharp and Shit Hot, using natural gear. Finish as for SSSH.

Short and intense, starts 5m right of SSSH. Bolts through overhang.

Climb Fear Factory then drop down and continue traversing along lip past another five U-bolts to a rap station.

Uses the same start as Lean Mean Fighting Machine. However from the corner cut back hard left and finish through the steep roof on underclings. Exciting mantle awaits.

Sit start as for Yoshimi and move left to sidepulls then up to jugs

Sit start as for Yoshimi, move right across the line of pockets to the arete and finish up Ganamatronix

Slightly overhanging wall R of Kickstart. 5 Bolts to lower off. Technical crux midway leading to juggier finish.

Follow the bolts to the left of the arete.

Start on arete jug, traverse left through 6 progressively thinner crimps and up to jug on 'Fat Crack'. Keep your feet above the line of black rock.

Clip the first 3 bolts of Romeo, then keep heading left

Steep line of bolts right of Goating Around

The line right of the arete, starting at the big flat hold, up the highest part of the boulder. Keep on the right face. Starting to the right at the flake and moving left is an alternative start.

No longer existent. The loose flake broke. Start as for Orang-Utan, move left onto loose flake, dyne for lip.

Sit start 3m right of 'V4' on small edges. Up to good holds at head height. Dyno for lip then pull onto slab and into groove. Probably better as a V4 stand start, as the sit is pretty awkward.

Start 2m right and down from Vampire Lesbos on lip of low overhang. Up powerfully through the bulge to finish up the highest part of the boulder. A great problem.

Link from second move of Trash through hard bulge into Gordon, or harder into Bong On.

Start as for Mr. Blonde but traverse rightwards on thin holds along lip to finish up Reservoir Dogs

Up diagonal crack from awkward sitstart, either on slopers or underclings. Most people use the big flat sloper on Reservoir Dogs as well.

Low start to Lip Servant, adds a couple of moves. Start with left hand on obvious square corner and right hand on small flake down and right under the roof.

Start using the pocket just above the lip of the cave and feet on the back wall, climb over the bulge into crimps.