Routes in Oceania for selected grade

The deep crack.

Start 20m right of Melville's Cave.

The crack with a hard start.

Start at the right side of the grey wall.

The wall between 'Cartridge Arete' and 'Cartridge Chimney'.

The chimney.

Start: Just R of 'Cartridge Arete'.

The steep orange corner facing L.

Start 0.5m R of OC.

The line.

Start around R from 'Castration', on the wall facing The Pines, at the initial.

Up low angled face 2m right of 'Dignity' to summit.

Up right side of big block on slabby terrace. Step right at bulge.

3m right of SS, Slab to weakness. Trend left up slabby rib and bulgy crack then juggy bulge.

Involves a rubber chicken. On the side facing Cecilia, climb low angled, juggy crack on left.

"The holds just keep on appearing" Follow the obvious left-leaning diagonal rib to the arete then up.

Exit the key hole and climb down past rappel station, sticking to easy terrain.

Start at the left hand of two corners where the two walls on the terrace meet, a couple of metres right of "Young, Old and Amputees". The corner.

"The climbers were so thick they were like ordinary trees". Good to do if the other routes are busy though there could be a bottleneck on the last pitches of 'Tiptoe Ridge'.

Start: Start below big right-facing corner system.

1. 30m (5) Up easy slab to rock rib just right of corner. Belay in gap between main face and small pinnacle.

2. 10m (1) Wander across left to a stance closer to the corner where the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress meets the main face.

3. 50m (6) 'Excellent' climbing up the corner to the notch behind the 'Tiptoe Ridge' pinnacle.

4. 50m (4) Finish up the last 2 pitches of 'Tiptoe Ridge'.

Pleasant access route to the big terrace.

Blunt, slabby arete starting 10 metres right of Beau Geste.

Originally "About a Fat Wench from Normandy, who Pretended to Have a 'Snake' in Her Belly". Hard to believe he was the father of modern surgery, isn't it?

Start: Start: On top of large boulder leaning against wall 2m left of 'Mermaid Avenue' and also looks ok.

You know what to do.

Start: Start: 2m right of 'Poles Apart' at another line of cracks.

Huge old-fashioned chimney.

A quirky ramble that is very enjoyable. There was a serious accident on this climb a couple of years back, showing that a lapse of concentration can get you hurt anywhere. Start at the foot of the chimney-gully.

1. 32m (4) Climb diagonally rightwards up the easy wall to large ledge.

2. 13m (6) Scramble 5 metres to next ledge and take vague corner-weakness 4 metres right of arete to summit. This summit has also been reached by the wall on the opposite side of the block, from within the chimney; much harder and not recommended.

3. 15m (6) Downclimb from summit, step across chimney then up wall to main summit.

A good climb for beginners to follow as protection is limited. Start 2 metres left of V-corner of Pete Made Us Do It.

Done Exodus and Cloaca and looking for another easy route? Below the Mason's Apron (left of Exodus) is a short pinnacle. This climbs the tallest part of the outside face.

An awesome climb if you're not a fan of exposure. 1) 23m (6) Start on exodus for 16m and then head up the sloping belay ledge on L. 2) 15m (2) Up the corner then traverse R then straight up.

Delightful. Start just right of a detached little pinnacle and just left of Edgell Gerber at a shallow corner.

Up the obvious crack for a few metres, step left and follow the main, slightly recessed line on the left side of the wall.

Start: Start as for 'The Atlantic Wall'.

Obvious crack line at E./ left end of cliff. Left of scrubby descent gully

Optimistic. First corner right of Shiela G. Pull up into knobbly corner and work up on good holds. Pull up onto ledge and continue up bridging corner. Some holds are brittle.

First shallow corner right of S.G., Pull up into knobbly corner & work your way up on good holds. Pull up onto ledge & continue up bridging corner, some holds brittle.

Beware of falling newspapers? A true cliff-splitter.The chimney that splits the tier R of the overhangs.

Traverse the diagonal crack/ledge. Start below Nuclear Error, follow crack up and right, step on to the small roof and continue along ledge to top. Bring lots of slings. Rapel off Alpha Decay.

Up the crack on the arete.

Start: Start at the arete R of GitP.

6m right of Brain Damage. Up the right side of the overhang then straight up.

Start at the obvious cleft at the left end. Bridge up and follow the weakness through to the top.

Start as for Shadow Streak. Go left up the easy ramp and through the overhang to the top.

Val's First Lead. The obvious narrow chimney on the north facing wall of the cliff.

Walk R across the ledge at the top of V8s and then behind the native pines. Up the slab to the top.

Pull up and climb the face to a ledge. Step left and pull up on a small nose. Traverse up left into a chimney which goes to the top.

Start: Start 5 metres left of 'Easter Wall'. (? initialled)

Middle of wall, topout on jug to the right.

As for Yin but take the chimney on the R.

2mR of Gelati Crumble. Move up the crack past the gum tree and over the overhang. Then move up the L chimney on good holds. 12.11.83

Start at large tree 3 metres left of descent gully.

Pox. Small corner, then step right to arête on first little buttress ‘where the cliff starts to build up again’.

1. 50m Rope-length up from toe of main slab to boulders.

2. 50m Traverse 4m right to nose. Slab to break in overlap. Diagonally left to shallowgroove at foot of corner.

3. 30m Up left below overlap to black block. Up through overlaps to big crack and stance.

4. 50m Slab to top of pinnacle. Scramble 30m along ridge to foot of next slab.

5. 46m Right arête to top of pinnacle. To notch behind.

6. 10m Slab. Descend by following ridge (roped at first) past summit. Follow ridge down to Gap.

Climbs slab left of main slab of the Last Unicorn, then crosses gully between and joins The Last Unicorn.

1. 45m Slab to overlap, up beside it, then step right over it. Up to second overlap on right. Over it.

2. 47m (3; no pro) Step left and climb slab to bushes and huge blocks.

3. 26m Veer right to over-lap. Up on to block. Shift belay right across gully.

4. 40m (crux) From horizontal break, go up right over slabs and overlaps to join The Last Unicorn atop pitch three.

Worthless. Start off big block against cliff.

Right end of wall right of High In The Saddle, just left of arete.

Easy climbing on good rock in the depths of a massive formation.

Start: Start 50 metres right of 'Bastion' where two huge, juggy walls join to form a wide open-book formation. Scramble up to the line.

1. 45m (6) Move into the deep, hidden chimney and bridge up. Move right at 45 metres to a stance.

2. 45m (6) Up the line above the stance. Traverse left at 23 metres to another line that leads to a large ledge.

3. 10m (6) On up the line.

An easy crack at the right-hand end of the cliff.

This has a pretty hefty overhang for the grade.

Start 3 metres right of "Juggler> below a crack in the roof.

Climb straight up to the crack in the roof, over and up.

Contrived. Centre of narrow slab 5 metres around right of "Fringe Benefits"

Start at a pronounced rib about 20 metres right of Little Round Jug. Climb the rib and continue directly up the slab.

Crouch start on lowest part of lip near cliffline. Rising traverse on lip all the way to the highest point meeting with J.S Memorial Choss

Face 2 metres left of "Nice Puss", about 1 metre right of the descent chimney.

Another variant. Start as for Decapitating Tweety Birds. Up groove to break. Go diagonally right to the obvious break in the wall and up.

An easy climb was done right of DTB in 1990 by Peter Allen and Kieran Sell. This may be the same climb. Start 3 metres right of Decapitating Tweety Birds. Up initial crack for 3 metres (use the tree or it's grade 16) then diagonally right to and up crack in upper wall.

They don't make climbs like this anymore. Climb the left edge of the outcrop.

Climb crack above cairn for 8 metres, step left and continue up wall.

Climb straight up grey rock past some bulges.

Follow the prominent left-leaning crack/ramp until below the final roof. Step right and steeply up.

Left of Peregrine is a gully which is the normal descent route. On the east side of the gully is a cliff with a roof towards its left side. Two lines lead up to the roof.

This is the right-hand line, a flake, to the roof. Move right and up to a bushy ledge. Chimney to top.

Gravelly. Stand-start on the left arete and climb toward the right then up.