Routes in Oceania for selected grade

An old Wishart project. Start as for Lost Weekends then out the roof on the flake.

Link Up. Start up Sexy is the Word, cross though Skin to Skin and finish up White Trash.

A good fun boulder problem. The 'problem' is clipping all the bolts! A hard one to grade.

From the belay head diagonally out left through the roof to a break. Traverse back right a little and up final head wall.

Start: Start at the belay above 'JP1'.

Extension of 'TP'.

Climb the black slab around the arete right of 'SL'

Start to the left of Fukdifino and join this route at the ledge.

A pocket boulder gem. Tricky and funky start getting easier leading up to the sand pit. Get a good rest then knuckle down through and couple big moves and a wicked stretchy pocket boulder top.

The extension to Shocked. No anchor so jump off.

Don't go getting offended by the route name, once again this was comment on what was happening in society (Black Death in Custody) when the routes were climbed and the music being listened to. Continuing the tradition of excellent 28's at Nowra. Backup anchor added in 2004. Start: Start 2m to the right of EFTDF. The undercling at the crux snapped off around 2012-13, but there's still a sequence.

Start just right of Brother in a Body Bag. A series of boulder problems that get harder the higher you get. Finish at anchors below rooflet.

One of Nowra's finest. Far superior to many other "3 star" routes around here! The start slab often seeps but it's an absolute gem from there to the top. Start up the steep pumpy 15m corner crack to sitdown rest in cave, then launch out onto the awesome overhanging wall for 15m of bouldery brilliance to the top.

Liam McIntyre (2021)

A Billy Goat must make it's way up this route guarded by a fearsome and hideous troll (crux) who is so territorial that he eats anyone dares try. Do you have what it takes to get to the green grassy meadow?

Start as per GITH then go right.

Batman Start 4m left of Evil E. A Pumper! Awesome!

An old project dispatched. Stick clip and batman to the start jug of Evil E, then head left and up to join Funky Gripsta. Excellent boulder problem and then pump to the top. About as hard as Evil E.

Start 5m R of the flake of Funky Gripsta. Stick clip & batman to start. Excellent bouldery moves most of the way, with possible heartbreak high and an inspired runout to finish.

Sit start at bottom of cave, just in front of the RHS boulder, with left hand in good slot and right hand on side pull. Climb straight up to next break, then traverse right to gain sloper jugs in large pocket. From here, head straight up, finishing with a big move around roof to a jug. Back wall is out (no dab).

Start as for 8 Bit Hero, moving right toward the hanging arete. Top at first break.

Sit start at rail and head right for some funky throws with big holds. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Same as for 'NSK' but jump left to jug instead of up to sloper.

Start as for Nappy Nuggets but keep climbing right following line of holds right then back left to rejoin. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Sit start on big jug, move straight up via a tough jump to the hueco then to top. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Sit start on the flake. Move right via undercut to the big moves fridge hugging up to top. Ledge on the ground is NOT in!

Low sit start at the back of the roof, big moves out following the break in the roof.

Far left bolted line on the face.

Alec Landstra

Highball at far left end of Lot 33. Tops out to Lot 34. Stand start on 2 edges, move up into roof and committingly top out around the bulge.

Clip the low belayer's bolt on the left so the leader doesn't get knackered by the rope when dogging the crux.

Up BB for 3 bolts then go straight up.

Start: Start as for BB.

Excellent bouldery first move, then just plain excellent. Start: Start at the cheatstones 5m L of SB.

Has been called the best 28 in the world. The real classic of this area. Relentlessly steep and consistent cranking. Very enjoyable moves with no let up until the anchors.

Start: Start below the obvious hanging arete.

Angie Scarth-Johnson (11)

The original project before Curds of Prey was found, the huge undercling at the lip looked so inviting. A cool sequence to turn the lip, then traverse left along the juggy red stone to the apex of the cheese wedge. Clip the chains on The Wheel of Cheese, then top out!

Traverse across the brilliant white rock in an excellent position, crossing the bulge to a fine headwall. Extend the clip on the bolt before the steepness to avoid excessive drag.

Start up Wham Bam Thankyou Maam. At 3 metres, traverse left and up a bit and more left. At 12 metres the route joins Cheesemonster for 4 bolts. Just before the massive flat-top jug, traverse left another few metres, then up to Cheesemonster anchors.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

As for Stinky Cheese for 15 metres or so. Where Dick Cheese traverses left at the break near the end, go up for two bolts then left to Dick Cheese anchors.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

The bolted seepy weird crack.

Start on the good holds below the seam and head up via the enhanced slots and the "potato" hold and match on the finishing sloper.

Start as for Monkey Grip (V9), finished matched in hueco above and left of start holds of Gorilla Grip (V10).

Sit start in back of cave, where the major weakness meets the backwall, with your left hand in dish above your head and right hand on large pinch pebble. Follow slopers along the weakness, which eventually turns right. Finish in nice jug slot with dead plant coming out of it, just above the cliff drop-off.

Crouch start to the right of large slabby boulder on tiny boulder (under rooflet) with left hand crimp and right hand jug). Head up diagonally, doing your best not to dab the slabby boulder, and top out above the slabby boulder.

Super classic line with a rad compression sequence and lip pull. Starts way back in cave on jugs and finishes at the big slopey shelf. Could probably be topped out if it were cleaned and if you had lots of pads

Alec Landstra

Direct start to BM

The direct start to Something Jumpy, begin with the first two bolts of Daddy Cool clipped and then tackle some independent climbing to meet SJ at the dyno.

The awesome line to the left of Father Figure, starts under the roof and then climbs the orange wall to the right of the cave.

The right hand route. Sweet moves to good rest then bouldery crux... awesome

An old Rabbit project.Start 6m right of Duke Nukem on the ledge left of Rodent. From ringbolt belay on ledge follow bolts up sustained wall to anchors under last little roof.

Starting by the jug ledge jump off the ground to underneath the flake, up and over to mantle. Very big and intimidating, careful of the creek.

THE GROUND IS IN

could potentially be done without utilising slopy and chossy edges

Sit start on the rail. Big moves up the steep wall to top out the hole.

S1. Start on the triangular ledge, move up and left through roof to top just right of arete/nose.

Start: In undercut steep blank roof with super bouldery moves to get the obvious pocket. Power through roof with balance to chains.

Update 2021: several hundred kgs of rock have fallen out of the bottom of the cliff, including the starting holds. The rock at the start of this route isn't really rock just sand and not possible to climb on. Start 3m R of Dixie Normous, Steep and powerful start leads to bouldery climbing leading righwards to arete. Power endurance test piece.

Awesomely long crimp sequence up to steep finish.

Rad technical sequence to the mini ledge then awesome crank sequence to the big ledge and up complimentary second pitch (around grade 18) to the top.

Techy slab to powerful crux with sustained top half. Climbs up out left of Anchor. Anchor has been positioned to the right for ease of cleaning and to prevent rope drag.

Great climbing to even greater climbing, moving through side pulls to last bolt.

Stickclip from base of yellow seam. Big moves between small holds to bigger moves between bigger holds including a wild dyno. Probably 28 but fantastic conditions on the send. A coldshut halfway assists cleaning. Extend a few draws around the middle.

A fun slab to half way followed by hard, technical, bouldery climbing directly up the middle of the steep headwall above. Great climbing, and a beautiful piece of rock.

A couple of notes...

• Take care of falls with a soft catch, you will possibly hit the ledge falling between the 1st and 2nd, or 2nd and 3rd bolts. A new bolt has been added between what was the 3rd and 4th bolts making this section nice and safe now.

• The grade will probably vary greatly with height, so take whatever seems right for you. If you're quite short, this will still be doable and super fun with creative beta, but expect a challenge.

One of the more varied bits of climbing around. Start up "beat up and thrown out" then follow the steel out right, pumpy and powerful to the top

bring one plate for the glue in carrot or improvise

The line of bolts up the arching wall left of 'Scurvy'.

Abseil off double rings to ledge. Double ring belay. Pre clip 1st ring as little spicy move down low. Cruise to mid height for punchy crux then go for ze sumeet

Impressive steep arete, overhung on both sides. Bolts still good as at 2020. Fantastic easier climbing to a stout final section.

Abseil down to double bolt belay. Pre or stick clip 1st bolt. Follow the arete the whole way up

Rap of double rings at top. Recommend pre clipping 1st bolt. Start at ledge and up steep over hang. Up and up to crux on small pockets and moving right across the shield to arete. Good no hands rest and spicy slab finisher! Epic climbing and lasting memory for the faithful hound

4 bolts above DAD. Superb rock and thin technical climbing. Some of the best rock on the wall with small edges and pockets. Dedication to the vision of Will creating the line. With his Name and climbing hold company Unleashed : )

The one bolt extension of The Omen to enable the link into the top of Permissability. Super small pockets, just like 80s French limestone!

The overlap right of Hungry Eyes. Awesome moves on great rock. Sustained through the top.

Start as for Shepard's Warning for a couple of moves but pike via a span right to finish as for Shepard's Pie.

Start on low undercling jug 2 metres left of Dead Calm. Make a move up to flat pedestal jug and continue all through the cave to top out.

Lachlan

Obvious high ball crack problem. Needs lots of pads, or top rope it. Open Project

From the back wall up the left side slapping some slopers

Chris Beers

In the mini cave from the back ledge head out the roof via pinch and blobby bulge Mega Classic

Awesome new 20 move problem with a dynamic crux at the start and solid rock nearly the whole way. Starts on the big pocket of Say Ahhhhhhh, a couple of easy start moves set you up for a big move out left from a bad off angle right before joining Hopes In Slopes..

Jug the Teflon start then long reach and hard match to move into Mosquito clamps start jug and continue. Only hard for 3 moves really but rad the whole way.

Jared Tyerman

Powerful, and weirdly technical roof thuggery. Very unique for the Blueys. Similar in difficulty to Force Cannon at The Pit. Maybe coolum 26?

So named because it's possible to deck from any of the first 4 bolts with an inattentive belayer.

2 Bolt Belay. Bring 1x #0.4 (x2 if linking P1 and P2), #0.75, #1, #4.

1. 30m (27) - 7 Bolts and a #0.4 Cam (to protect the final move to the anchor).

2. 20m (24) - 2 Bolts, #4, #0.4, Bolt, #0.75 and #1 Cam to anchor.

3. 25m (21) - 5 Bolts to anchor.

A proper long and overhanging monster. The money pitch is 65m long, and overhangs more than 20m!!! Surely there isn't much like that in the Blueys at the grade? Suffice to say, you will get pumped.

Rock quality is Bell-esque, so adjust stars accordingly.

1. 65m (27) - Intimidating! 11 bolts to join Gaze a Gazely stare just above the roof, then continue upwards forever. Strategic long/giant runners, and roller biners essential ! See Gaze for necessary rack for this pitch.

2. 10m (20) - 1 Bolt, to #0.4 and bolt belay.

Whilst Bundy and Macca pissed around on their sport/trad project over several years Steve noticed the chalk Macca had left from trying the direct start and managed to bolt send this harder version in one weekend. It's the route between Binary Neil and Thumbs Out.

Looks as though it has a couple of impassable blank sections, but some focussed oomph will see you through, provided you have average or better wingspan. Very good climbing which deserves more attention.

Chris Beers

Effectively a 2nd pitch to Digitalicious through the short steep roofs above the shale ledge. Short right facing flake, wall then long move through roof to jug. Hand traverse right then up steep wall above to crux section passing the final bolt. Mantle the lip to finish. Back-jump.

Wonderful wall climbing. First pitch is a good single pitch sport route with lower-off at grade 23/24. Link into the 2nd pitch for an epic 50m 24 - and if you are really keen continue up the final crimpy finale at 28 for the mega pitch to the top. A couple of long draws and a single length sling are useful for the link-ups. Pitch 2 and 3 were first climbed before pitch 1 - with a belay on the small ledge. If you plan to belay from the ground and link into pitch 2 you will want a 70m rope minimum (and still need a rethread).

Marxism is the 2nd line of rings left of Ben Trovato's p1 crack.

1. 30m (24) One of the best pitches on the wall. Intricate face climbing finding a line of weakness amongst blankness. The best way to do it is to start up Vespasian's Wall for 3 bolts, then traverse right into rising line of bolts. (The original grade 23 start used to have a large dead tree to stand on to reach the first holds. Now its a stick clip and awkward batman, so just do the new start which is longer and more sustained).

2. 25m (24) The right line of bolts directly above the three bolt belay. Long sustained orange wall - a couple of crazy fragile features spices things up. Finish at last good jugs at lower-off.

3. 12m (28) Link this from pitch 2. Either belay from P1 mini ledge - or the ground. Really awesome climbing on thin edges with a long vertical crux move to undercling a shallow flake!

Starts as for Marxism (pitch 2), then trends a bit left! Weaves around quite a bit, eventually finishing at DRB 6m below the top.

The direct finish to The Young Violent Pony past at least three more bolts and some very thin moves. Finishes on small ledge and lower-off.