Routes in Oceania for selected grade

Sit start on low rail then move right through a series of gastons and pop to the brick pinch at the lip to top out as for Black Caviare

https://www.instagram.com/p/C7I8bs0yOEM/?img_index=1

Sit start at the back of the cave, move out the roof then punch straight up to a tiny oinch hold to finish on a high jug.

Middle crack - turn the lip then to top, mantle to finish.

High, hard, scary, awesome.

Mega classic roof traverse and thought provoking topout. This is the flag-problem of RnR!

A more direct line on the right. Slightly harder than aurora borealis

A direct start on the steep wall punching into the scoop.

George Li | Phillip Booth

Climb "Great Expectations" and finish out "Will It Ever End".

Moving up the obvious start into the blocky flake feature, with a big move up left to continue following the leftward rising rail joining the finish of Project 1 through the runnel feature, no lower offs, top out and walk off boulder to finish for full value and walk back down to belay area or back clean from last ring. Caution if topping out, easy climbing but runout. Take care when cleaning.

Stand start on the crimpy, sloper rail, move right and up on thin, crimpy holds and top out to the left.

George Li

Stand start right of the smooth tree.

Sit start on the big sloper jug and go directly up on some sloping edges leading to an easy rounded top.

Sit start on the flat jug and go left following the line of crimps.

Sit start on the chipped jug, do a big move out right to a slopy edge and top out on the dihedral.

A must do classic if you are into dynos. One of the most iconic dynos in Sydney.

Stand start in the break at head height, do some easy moves and dyno to the lip from the perfect huecos.

Bring a good spotter.

Sit start on the low sidepull, traverse left on some crimps/slopers and finish up GO.

Possibly the most interesting line on this wall. Links the best sections of each individual boulder into one mega classic traverse.

Shared start with Monopoly, Do Not Pass GO and traverse all the way out left into the topout of Snakes And Ladders

Mauricio Chino

To avoid any controversial opinions on the name, this route got this name because it was FAed in a 30°C day where every hold immediately turned black and the chalk disappeared due to the sweat, leaving a trail behind.

An absolute classic.

Sit start matched on the big side pull feature, do a few tough moves up to the roof. Traverse out right to finish matched on the big horn above the fallen tree.

b00ge

Sit start up sloping rail to big last move

Alexander Lopes (FA)

Crouch start with RH on the sloper ledge and LH on the undercling. Compress your way on the lower lip and do a big backwards move to the hole in the flake.

Meedu

CAUTION: PLEASE DO NOT PULL ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE FLAKE, STICK TO THE HOLE/LEFT SIDE WHERE IT'S THICKER.

An absolute classic and the main reason for visiting the main wall of this crag.

Sit start on the lower break under the roof, do some moves to gain the pinch on the lip and dyno to the hole in the flake.

Aaron Liu

CAUTION: PLEASE DO NOT PULL ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE FLAKE, STICK TO THE HOLE/LEFT SIDE WHERE IT'S THICKER.

Start matched on the underclings under the bulge and jump to slopy lip just above. Exit out right in the middle of the big scoop.

Dyno - hands on the jug below Just Don't Care and big dyno to the horn above the break. Same top.

Crimp your way up, high and committing, the crack on the left is a no go.

The Southern face of the North Boulder

A hold up high and right has broken off.

Match at the start under the boulder, very tricky start then work for each move

Stand start, up the arete.

Hard boulder problem to runout pumpy section anchors at top of cave.

The acceptance of imperfection, a classic test piece of climbing with some of the best moves at Elanora.

Engaging start on amazing rock, straight up to thin move to traversing finish to anchors.

One of the best lines at Elanora. Straight through roof-let and hard pulling to base of main roof gets you some hard pulling and wild roof traversing. Finishing up airy top out.

Funky moves on immaculate sandstone through thin technical crux finally to fight the pump on final overhang.

Finger lecken gut.

A tricky wall leads to a hard to hold, barn door move, to gain the roof. Incorrectly, initials CS and CG are at the base of this. Climb past twin Ubolt anchor out to big thread in lip. Backjump roof.

Classic pocket pulling, all U's

Start: Smooth black wall 2m right of the corner. Bolts.

climb blankness R of Tilt. Clip Ubolt on ledge before lurching out into space. Rebolted 2018.

Sit start and climb the slightly overhung wall via some underlings and big moves

The original, before James Scarborough linked Fight Club into it. Stand start and up the rail.

Stand start off the crimps on the higher rail and reach for the sloping lip. Hard slapping/campusing out right on crappy slopers leads to a techy mantle over the upside-down lip followed by a second, easier mantle

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Sit start on crimps. Using the left wall for feet, move through slopey crimp and big lock off to crimp to finish as for Ultra Light City

Emmanuel Madayag

Sit start right hand in hole at base of seam and left hand on crimp rail. Use bad feet in roof or campus up into the start of Ultra Light City. Finish as for that problem

Emmanuel Madayag

Low start. Adds two hard bump moves with the left hand into "Ultralight Seam". Slightly contrived but very tensiony.

1st few moves of Ultimate Fighter then break left & up.

Start on the far left of the boulder. Traverse right on slopey crimps not using the break above you. If you use the break it is v4.

A great Eliminate. Traverse from right to left using holds in the roof and on the actual lip only . Once you've dropped down to the hueco keep heading left to top out via the short wall on the far LHS of the cave as for DISW. The early topout directly from the Hueco is Aquarius V6.

Mauricio Chino

starts at the back on the ledge and goes directly out (there is a intermediate crimp in the roof as well)

Stand start to Fiction.

Into the thin undercling and to top.

Some very tricky climbing. Start at the dyno hole and avoid the dyno ledge as well as the better holds out right. A little easier for the tall.

Note: This should appear before Dump Divers Dyno (currently No.8)

Surprisingly technical. Starting just left of Coal Train Blues, use the side pull and undercling to boost up to the angled crimpers. Avoid large flake and head high crimps to the left. Then straight up. Shares no common hand holds with CTB. Match as high as possible to finish, good lip up top.

Again from the broken undercling, traverse left below slopey lip and get established round on the left side of the block

Andrew Unsworth

Freedom Day's burlier older brother, and a problem of truly quality moves. Same start and exit, but the right arete is off. Gain the sloper and hang on for a ride! (In the grey area of V6/7)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-OdfaJS9gpo

Traverse The Nose then right and down through overlaps to link up with problem 7.

Start at the well-brushed (and poor) sloper with your left hand. Desperately up.

Start at the well-brushed (and poor) sloper with your right hand. Desperately up.

Hard left-to-right traverse staying below the reasonable head-height line. Highly unlikely to have ever had a 2nd ascent as Pete did a very eliminate method and very undergraded.

From the little arete, traverse right via the flared crack.

Lip Traverse from the obvious horizontal break right of the roof all the way along the lip to finish in the wide corner crack.

A more logical finish. Start as for Minuteman and finish up 2.

Classic. Use only the holds in the beta vid for your hands, anything for feet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjnKqjrdq-w

A series of desperate iron crosses that links into Mummy Dust.

Start up Mummy's Old Carrots, clip the anchor and climb past the fixed nut into the crack below the roof. Follow this all the way until it fizzles out past multiple blobs of old coach screw. Back jump (consider re-aiding if too tired) to clean. Whispers amongst the local trees suggest that back in the day this was in the realm of 28/29 but someone local and wise may have some more solid information on this (as well as the real name and FA).

Start on the obvious, well chalked hold in the center of the wall. Traverse left using the SAME level of holds for your hands. All foot holds are in. finishing around the corner on the mega end jug. Classic.

Done sit starting as for Super Birdman and topping out round the corner at V5/6. MD 2023.

Start left han don the side pull crimp and right hand on the horizontal crimp. Pull on (no jump starts), throw to the flat edge and finishing as for Friday Night Lights.

Climb Friday Night Lights to the flat edge then cross to the chicken head with your left hand to finish as for Half-Time Orange.

Start on the two micro crimps, throw to the jug then make long lock-offs to a classic mantle top out.

Sit start, Top out Finish. The feature is in.

Sit Start on Rail, top out using the smaller future to the right.

After reaching the finishing jug, keep going a few moves further and finish on an even higher jug, up and left of the spike on 'Exodus'. Scary!

Link the Traverse into 'Anorexic' and finish as for the 'Anorexic' extension. V7' ish but probably deserves a sport grade.

Sit start with left hand on the good undercling in the rooflet and right hand in the round pocket. Move to the left side-pull then powerful to the jug rail on the top of the shield.

Phillip Booth

Sit start with left hand on the hueco pinch and right hand underclinging, then power your way up the right hand side of the Penis Cling shield. Fun.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Phillip Booth

All the way to the top jug.

Link rigid fist into HUOY by traversing along the ledge.

Start as for rigid fist and link directly up into HUOY.

Start up Bill Smith and finish up Mr Smiley

Campus Mr Smiley

Climb Mr Smiley across into Vitamin C or Vitamin X.

M11, L12, L10, R4, L13, M13 Another classic. Everyone has their own favourite beta, but good footwork is the key. (Becomes 'Mavis' V8 if both pinches are held before gaining edge 10- 'Contrived' and hard)

M1, R2, R3, L4, M4

A classic but nasty shoulder press - You'll either find it too easy or bloody desperate.

Same as 'The Mind Is a Terrible Thing To Taste' but no matching in the break. Foot-Free problem!

Up right of the pillar just avoiding it's juggy flake. Aim for the good pocket. Frustrating!

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Phillip Booth

M9, L10, R11, R12, M12.

Same as Storm Troopers but throw right hand to pocket.

As for Rebel Scum but don't use the right hand undercut. Apparently "easier" than using it......

Start in the roof on the two low slopey pinches, out to the good edge (2) and then blast to the shared finish hold (4). Everything else is off limits.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

1,3,11,13,4,9 (on the next topo)

Start on the big sloper as for 'Moustaffa' (1), get the ear (3) with your left hand and continue left (11) before dropping down to (13) and traversing the slopers rightwards to finish as for 'All Guns Blazing'.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Sit start as for 'Heavens Gate' and link into 'Nicole'.

A great link-up and the logical beginning of Nicole to get full value from this section of wall.

Phillip Booth

From the starting pockets of 'Mike's Five', move left into a set of underclings and straight up to finish on the jug, without using the two finger pocket. Hard.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

R10,L13,R14,L15,M15,L16,M16,L6,M6. The jug in the break is out. Very good sloper traverse. Another to save for a cold day.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Climb burst from left to right finishing on the jug.

Traverse left and then to top hold with ferns sticking out.

From the good edge under the rooflet, go straight up to a committing finish.