Routes in Oceania for selected grade

Starts as CTS finishes up MP. Classic pumping.

Popular with the euros. Up the next line R to a big dyno. Finish off L in the cave. Upgraded due to broken hold

Bouldery start into monkey puzzle.

Link 'Monkey' Direct into Koala

Rock isn't as good as the other routes here, but it has a couple interesting moves.

Linkup el supremo. First 3 bolts on TT, move R acros CTS and LPM, join MP at fifth bolt. Finish up MP.

A good one to do when the crag is realy busy!

Large roof doesn't even come close to describing this. Flake (peg) on right side of cave (facing in) to its end. Bulge, then line across ceiling to exit through left-most hole in roof.

Roof climbers rave about this one. Steep jugging to a few hard moves at the end. Unfortunately once again the bolt spacing warrants caution.

Start down the very back of the left end of the main cave.

7 bolts to rap anchor. There's almost groundfall potential at the 5th and 6th bolts, and also beware the block behind you at the last bolt.

Quite close to Nomads but it still looks great. The usual warning applies about having only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start as for Nomads.

Break R from Nomads after the 1st bolt, then follow the line of holds 1.5m R of Nomads. It's a shame it finishes in the middle of nowhere at the last bolt a few metres before the lip. There's no anchor - either trust the ring or back-clean it.

A very impressive line blasting out the biggest part of this massive overhang, on beautiful red stone. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start as for Nomads.

Start as for Nomads but stay on the hanging arete/nose, then follow the line of holds rightwards and outwards forever.

Extension of 'Tunnel to Caracas' .

Climb all of 'Tunnel to Caracas' then continue up the seam above to join into 'Fat and Sassy' just before it takes the left fork in the seam. Finish up the runout top section of 'Fat and Sassy' to the top of the cave.

Rebolted / made sane in 2017. This is a great line & deserves repeats!

Looks like a pissy little link up but it was actually done before Aging 'Gigolo'.

Start: Start as for 'The Floating Cloud'

Looks like a pissy little link up but it was actually done before Aging Gigolo.

Start up The Floating Cloud then move left into Aging Gigolo.

Designed to be climbed as a quite scary sport route, but rumour has it there is the odd trad piece to sanitise it a little. No anchor...clean it how you wish! There is a piker's variant which goes at 27 by traversing a little higher than shown when you're about 15m into the traverse. Line 18a in the topo shows a grade 25 trad variant done by Matt Adams.

Start: Start on the boulder on the R edge of the huge cave, on the R side of the 2nd tier.

Starts as RRH then moves left at obvious horizontal

Bouldery number, 4th bolted route from right

Follow the amazing Prow. 3rd bolted line from right.

Start The Pummeling and exit up Underhanded Tactics. Bring a chalkbag.

Start 20m left of 'The Thin Red Line' near the left edge of Flame Wall. Dyno sideways to gain the hanging groove. Continue up the bulging face to a diabolical crux up high. Beware the pumpy finish.

Excellent orange face with lots of tiny crimpers and several FHs. Bring wallnuts to size 7 to supplement the existing FHs. More bolts may be added later.

Same start as for Hakuna Matata, though keep traversing right through small slopers and pockets and into Chicken Pride and finish as for that.

Radical line of flakes through an outrageous roof arete, and all this in a prime position on the front of the Cathedral. Looks all time! Batman start.

The severely overhanging dyke on the underside of the boulder to the left of 'This Is Not Our Land' and 'Injustice'. One carrot and three fixed hangers.

Extension for existing line "Tippy Toe", starting on the crimpy ledge on the far right.

Stand start on crimpy ledge, up to the crimpy sidepull and move over left to the glorius jug which is then only one dynamic move away from the top! Nice project, graded at around V8 - V10!

As above without the starting chockstone for feet.

Excellent! Sit start hands in low break. Move to rubbish lip and Direct to mantle over arete (don’t move right along lip above LB4). Much easier if long armed or if start on lip.

About as hard an eliminate as I could conceive/contrive for the roof. Could just tickle over V8 but may be easier. No use of heel or toe hooks, no use of the big foot ledge near ground on right, the good foot edge 20cm up middle of face or the big ledges for your feet. Start on jugs, match undercling in roof to gain lip then difficult to avoid dab getting around lip. Oh... and if it’s not obvious enough... no use of either arete!

Traverse the line of blocks using blocks 6 and under minus the bottom row. There is a hard move in the middle of this. #traverse

Sit start the arete. Hard.

Excellent technical and powerful climbing. Starts south side (underneath) The Hull. Stand start with both hands on edges on lip (and/or poor slope underclings on lip) of the hull and establish feet with difficulty. Steeply up a couple of moves via poor slope pockets on the underside and arete for right hand (crack and face jugs up right out for hands) to join TH. The slab on left is obviously out (but makes for an ok VE).

Truck left as per all the other extensions. Go on... do it!

Start left hand lowest hold on straining rail flake and right just above it. Massive move to flake then as per under strain.

Starting on the slopey rail. Span to the right and finish via right facing horn to jug, dyno right to jug or up left facing flake. All worthwhile.

Long Night if the Ape into SRE

Link Day of the Ape into Positive Ape.

Traverse (Left to Right) the overhanging lip from a sit start on jug below chimney and avoiding the obvious line of jugs 1m above lip. Hardest at the start to gain Stiff Upper Lip.

Probably the way to do it. The Radness using foot jug then right into Release The Koalas. Very easy to spill the second last move!

Awesome traverse around the boulder. Link The rad traverse with the koala link. Long, pumpy problem. Upgraded to V8 for now. Time will tell.

Epic crag classic. Takes The Great Migration to new levels by starting up FTS and finishing up the insecure highball crux of GSFP2 when you are most boxed. Line up your ducks (and possibly your spotters). Time will declare grade... you probably want to be climbing V8 to minimise the chance of breaking something punting the finish.

The original full arete line.

Start: Start 3m L of Boogie on the far R side of the big boulder. 29 if climbed direct (Boogie pillar out for hands and feet) but some will succumb to temptation to rest up right in the scoop or on the jugs out left at the same level, both of which are probably 28.

29 version of HSD into Wolf Variant instead of HSO.

Much ado Sit, reverse the Yumegiwa traverse and finish up Measure for Measure. Full value. PS... slopes and jugs around corner to right are out... should you feel inclined.

SDS as per The Measure Sit for maximum value for money. Once at lip traverse to finish up Much Ado About Nothing.

Start DJV, finish up Pain and Persistence. The added climbing provides extra spice for the finish and a nice twist on the name.

Start as for 'Babymoon' (or even better matched on the big sidepull) but do not use the huge blocky foothold. Climb up and rightwards without using the nose via a sharp round pocket and a cut loose move to finish direct. This can be climbed using the huge blocky foothold at around V5/6.

Possibly the best line in the area. Climb the gorgeous arete using small but positive holds. Stand start using the big undercling with the right hand.

Stand-start matched on the crimp rail in the wall left of Lil Ditto and make a hard move to the big hold up on the face. Finish via more long moves and slopers. A great problem with some hard moves. I did flirt with giving it V9 but maybe V8 is closer to the mark - time will tell.

Sit-start to Dark Scar but really it's a different problem - only one of the handholds and footholds is shared between the two problems. Start on the left-hand sidepull and right crimp. Move up to the obvious crimp with the right hand, nice footwork then allows the higher left-hand crimp to be reached. From here launch up and right with the right hand to where the lip flattens out (where the water bottle is in the photo). You could cheat and grab the left arete - don't do that! You can use the big foothold near the arete though - that's fine. A nice addition.

Stand-start at left hand end of the smooth overhanging wall. Pull off ground with your right foot on the wall, hold the position stable and then move directly to top and mantle over. One move wonder.

This is located quite far to the left of the main roof area (when facing the climbs). An amazing line and a 3-star classic! Start low at the arete and climb leftwards before topping out at the highest point.

Climb Land of the Overhangs to the lip (but don't use the big holds at the top) and then traverse the lip to finish up Land of Plenty. Good climbing.

At the far left of Scorpion rocks right on the Goldfields Track. Stand-start and climb the gorgeous steep slab. Move slightly right at the start, but then head back left using a small powerful undercut. Finish direct up the right side of the nose - don't use the crack/holds left of the nose. A great climb.

Same start as for The Shining Wall, but at the nose head left and finish up the crack on the other side of the nose. Both climbs share the same powerful crux but Fire Escape takes an easier finish.

Sit-start and climb up the overhang to the slot at the top of the feature. Great quality rock. An unusual style of climb for Mt Alex.

Sit start with opposing side pulls. Compress your way up using kneebars and finish matched on slot. All holds on this block are in.

Located approximately 5 mins along the path from Scorpion Rocks towards Dog Rocks. Sit-start right of The Leaning and make a long move to a crimp with your right. Move up to a left crimp and then out to a small right pocket. From here, move left to the arête and top out around it. An easier variation heads to the left arete after the first move.

From a sit-start, climb the blunt arete left of The Groove on its lefthand side by way of a big move with the left hand to the scoop, and then topping out. A stand-start is possible but considerably easier.

This problem is the top half of Embers and is clearly superseded by the full problem. Stack the pads massively to reach the small crimp on the right-hand side of the arete. Using this and the arete, pull off the pads powerfully. When established, slap for the better hold on the arete with your left. Finish more easily but stick to the right side of the arete.

A technical climb that doesn't ease until the very top. Climb the beautiful arete and top out.

Start on stacked rocks to reach first holds (looks like erosion has made this necessary since it was first established). Then up sharp edges trending left following bolts until you reach the DRB.

Start in the scoop same as Slippery Nipple. Work your way up and to the right to finish on the right side of prow.

Start in the hole matched on the crimp rail, head up and out before mantling.

Golden Path into PUM stand. Only V4 to the stand but sustained crimping tips it over the line.

Sickening but compelling, I couldn’t look away. Sit start with both hands in the bottom of the scoop, struggle onto the slab and top out.

"The hardest thing I climbed in the 80s": Law. Originally given 26, but "more like 28 now that no one climbs slabs". Brushed and rebolted 2016. One of the best hard lines near melbourne.

Start: Start 2m R of F.

Almost certainly reclaimed by moss. Hanging slab/face with spaced pockets. Climbed by Nick Sutter in the way back.

Rail ladder right end of boulder just left of hanging feature. A sit start via the V7 is possible.

Start on the two right-facing crimps at the far left underneath the rooflet. Traverse right via crunched moves to finish up Bulbasaur.

Not one for those with claustrophobia. Start lying fully in the cave with right hand on a pinch at the bottom of the face and left hand on a sloper on the left hand face. Make heinous moves to gain the start of Quibbily Quobs, finishing as for that climb.

Starts near dead tree, below small bulge. Climbs under bulge then to the left, above it, and on up. Rock is very fragile, wear a helmet! Could be harder than 30?!

5m R. Starts on high ledge near remains of a tree 5m off the deck. Access this by scrambling up from far R, then carefully walking back L. Clip first UB on Miss Sixty with long sling for safety while getting established on the line. Four clips (UB’s and FH’s) and very bouldery tension climbing. Anchors on smooth orange shield.

1m R. Scramble up to start ledge from R, then carefully wander over to far L of ledge (chalky choss) to U-bolt above a chossy white V-groove. Route blasts up from here passing 5 FH’s to anchor. Steep, bouldery and thin with a spicy top section. A bit of care with the beautiful start flake, please.

Behemoth is a beast mentioned in Job 40:15–24. The name has come to be used for any extremely large or powerful entity. 4m R. Stickclip first high bolt, but start waaay to the left up a vague ramp. Easy climbing up a corner, then smooth face to a sit down rest ledge (cave). Exit left out of this, and then - hold on to your hat! Super crazy amazing. Difficult to grade this endurance pitch.

Liwyāṯān is a sea monster referenced in the Old Testament. The word has become synonymous with any large sea monster or creature. Climb as for Bohemoth to cave. Exit out the right edge of the cave, then 8 bolts of gradually steepening climbing to pull onto a rest ledge below final headwall arete. A seriously fierce boulder section on pockets past two bolts guards the anchors. The hardest moves on the wall.

PYP into second pitch of Troglodyte, continuing into the end of COH

Climb Sugar Monster to anchors, then continue out to the left to finish as for Creature of Habit.

Sit start on the horizontal jug, big move up to slopey edge on left, then pop up to small edge and finish right on the jug ledge.

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

Standing start on tiny crimps and head up to small left facing corner, then top.

Start on the far right of feature, follow left and up to top. Variations may exist.

Sit start on left, slap and slopers to thin crux then jug.

Sit start off low rail under the lip. Power up to crimps and finish up S8.

Start on crimps to the right and head up and left towards large feature. Holds have broken so grade could be different.

Start as for Spiderskin, but climb the obvious feature to the left where it ends. Then a very long reach to the left onto an slopey sidepull, then up to edge and then mantel finish.

Right arete from Fluming. Low start, nice moves up the arete to finish left.

Walk east, around the contour for 20m there is a small bouldering cave with one problem.

Start on juggy block to the right of the crack, move into aggressive hand / finger jam through roof to a tricky lip encounter and high top out. No earthworks needed, do not be tempted.

On the steepest section of rock directly below the second bolt on S.S. there is a bolt. Up past a BR to the 2nd bolt on S.S. Go up and slightly left past two more BR’s to top out. The BR to the right in the top section is still a project.

Start: 2-3m right of Low Flying Angel Same bolts. Boulder along under the roof (trying not to break your back) to join the original link-up and so on....

Five metres to the right of Shooting Star Cave and downhill is another cave created by boulders stacked on top of each other.

Sit start at the back of cave on obvious roof with a nice arete on the right. A right toe-hook on the arete and a left heel hook under the roof will get you off the ground without using the boulder at the end of the cave. Slap your right hand along the arete and use sidepull and undercling with your left. Follow the roof arete up into the chimney where it ends.

This boulder is 10 m down stream of Mad Woman's Breakfast.

Sitting on other boulders, there is a short roof under the boulder. From the start position, your back is to the river.

Sit start on obvious large sloping feature with your left heel by your hands. Up to a small slopey crimp, or if you like, to the very small, incut and very sharp flexing crimp. Then pull hard and throw up to rail, match then very hard mantel top out.

A direct line up the face that ratchets up the grade with each move

Very powerful!

Start: 3m right of Se A Cabo.

Follow the seam past four bolts. Lower off fifth bolt.

Start: The arête at the left end of the Buttress, before the big chimney corner. Start up the arête, trending right past the hangers to the horizontal break (big friend). Step up and power up the yellow streak past more hangers to lower-off under the block.