Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Thu 21st Dec 2023 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Cheile Bicăjelului Prima faleză Sector 1 | |||||||
M10 Easy | ★★★ Natural Killer - with Mara Miron | 26m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
M8 | ★★★ Harmonica - with Mara Miron | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
M8 | ★★★ Harmonica - with Mara Miron | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
M8 | ★★★ Harmonica - with Mara Miron | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sat 16th Dec 2023 - Coștila | |||||||
Văi şi brâne | |||||||
M2 | ★★ Valea Gălbinelelor (principal) | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Lovely walk on perfect snow. Rock obstacles barely uncovered, easily downclimbable
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Sat 16th Dec 2023 - Vadu Crişului | |||||||
Terasele superioare | |||||||
8- | ★★ Katana | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 13th Dec 2023 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Cheile Bicăjelului Prima faleză Sector 1 | |||||||
M10 Hard | ★★★ Illusion - with Bursuc Sergiu | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
M8 | ★★★ Harmonica - with Bursuc Sergiu | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
M8 | ★★★ Harmonica - with Bursuc Sergiu | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sun 10th Dec 2023 - Făgărașului Massif | |||||||
Sâmbăta Colţul Bălăceni | |||||||
M3 |
★★ Muchia Nord-Vestică
- with
Andrei Badea
1
M3
lead by
Andrei Badea
Ridge to the right of the normal gully, so we wouldn't bother the other team on the route
2
M2
lead by
Andrei Badea
Some M2 and more M1, we simulled maybe 10m
3
M2
lead by
Andrei Badea
Rejoined the official line. Back to the obelisk belay we retreated from last time. L'aventure commence.
4
M2
lead by
Andrei Badea
Spiciest pitch to lead. It's an easy but v exposed ridge, covered in unconsolidated snow. Can't see holds or pitons. With a lot of patience, housecleaning, commitment and a smidge of luck (hmm what is this great hold my right tool is on? Oooh a piton) it went well. Really fucking spectacular. Belay kinda leaning in our harnesses in one piton since we weren't sure we'd have anything better in reach
5
M3
lead by
Andrei Badea
Committing bit of ridge right after that single-piton belay, flake on the left looks like a good mobile placement but it'll fly. Easy, exposed ridge after
6
lead by
Andrei Badea
From the dihedral belay, we did the traverse versiron rather than the direct (one nut in the middle of the traverse, no pro otherwise. Found the crux quite spicy, it's a 5 in summer but small weird holds | 320m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sun 10th Dec 2023 - Morarul | |||||||
Văi şi brâne | |||||||
M4 | Râpa Zăpezii - Râpa Mare - with baza | Crap | |||||
Perfect consolidated snow in the lower part. The obstacle below the intersection with Rapa mica was recently affected by rockfall. The lower slab is full of crap, the upper right exit is blocked, and the upper left has you go through a new and poorly consolidated chimney and exit thru a sharp-edged window for a committing, exposed move on friable crap.
Between this and the hopefully-not-tuberculosis cold from hell, I had bad vibes about continuing so we rapped off (we added a second piton to the rap station over the second obstacle - crack could be deeper, but it should do) |
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Sat 9th Dec 2023 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Cheile Bicăjelului Prima faleză Sector 1 | |||||||
M10 Hard | ★★★ Illusion - with Ciprian Andrecut | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Redpointed up until under the top, where the missing hold is.
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M10 Hard | ★★★ Illusion - with Ciprian Andrecut | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Thu 7th Dec 2023 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Cheile Bicăjelului Prima faleză Sector 1 | |||||||
M8 | ★★★ Harmonica - with Bursuc Sergiu | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Warm-up.
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M10 Hard | ★★★ Illusion - with Bursuc Sergiu | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
M10 Hard | ★★★ Illusion - with Bursuc Sergiu | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sun 3rd Dec 2023 - Rimetea | |||||||
Coada Pietrei Sector 8 | |||||||
7+ | Apaş | 15m | |||||
Sun 3rd Dec 2023 - Muchia Cheii | |||||||
Cheile Râşnovului New Dry-tooling Crag | |||||||
M8 | ★★ 6 — 2 attempts - with Ruxandra V | 13m | |||||
M6 | ★ 4 - with Ruxandra V | 12m | |||||
Am pus buclele
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M6 | ★ 4 - with alex | 12m | |||||
Really glad Alex told me to try it, I'd never have guessed I can get my ass up a m6, even with rests
|
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M5 | 3 - with alex | 10m | |||||
Much less of a struggle than last year
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Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - Cheile Turenilor | |||||||
Peretele Brânei | |||||||
5 | Tavanul | 15m | |||||
6- | ★★ Barro | 16m | |||||
4 | ★★ Spinul | 16m | |||||
Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - Cheile Șugăului | |||||||
La Frați | |||||||
6c | ★★★ Caladan - with Mara Miron | 13m, 5 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - Rimetea | |||||||
Coada Pietrei Sector 5 | |||||||
7- ~7 | ★★★ Love — 2 attempts | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - Rimetea | |||||||
Coada Pietrei Sector 7 | |||||||
7+ Hard | ★★ Fiul ploii — 2 attempts | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - Muchia Cheii | |||||||
Cheile Râşnovului Sector Creasta Generalului | |||||||
M5 | ★★★ Traseul 7 | 12m | |||||
Went slightly to the right of the bolt line, on the crack rather than the arete
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Sat 2nd Dec 2023 - Muchia Cheii | |||||||
Cheile Râşnovului Sector Pintenul Magarului | |||||||
M4 | Bondarul | 20m | |||||
Fluturele | 20m | ||||||
Wed 29th Nov 2023 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Cheile Bicăjelului Faleza nouă | |||||||
M7 Easy | ★★★ Urur - with Bursuc Sergiu | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
M9 Hard | ★★★ Helvegen - with Bursuc Sergiu | 17m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
M9+
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M7 Easy | ★★★ Urur - with Bursuc Sergiu | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sun 26th Nov 2023 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Cheile Bicăjelului Prima faleză Sector 2 | |||||||
M6 | ★★★ Feelin' Frisky | 16m, 9 | |||||
Sun 26th Nov 2023 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Cheile Bicăjelului Prima faleză Sector 1 | |||||||
M8 | ★★★ Harmonica - with Mara Miron | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
M8 | ★★★ Harmonica - with Mara Miron | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Warm-up. With gear on me.
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Sun 26th Nov 2023 - Jepii Mici | |||||||
Văi şi brâne | |||||||
M5 | ★★ Valea Seacă dintre Clăi - with baza, Dragos Neagu, Marius | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Full start-of-season mixed conditions: wet in the lower third, snowed up in the middle third (I put on my crampons before the second window, later than would have been best), some ice in the upper third (2-3cm thick, easily separable from the rock below, we had some warm days before this). Made for easy but surprisingly cool climbing, esp somewhere in the middle where Baza decided against the classical, pitoned up traverse solution, free soloed some M4 mostly direct, then since I was on toprope and the M4 thing looked a)swingy and b) built for tall people I tried an overhanging direttisima version, maybe M5? There's a really bouldery fit-in-a-tight-box-and-then-do-a-long-move-over-the-overhang bit. Loved it.
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Sat 25th Nov 2023 - Jepii Mici | |||||||
Văi şi brâne | |||||||
1A | Brâul Mare al Jepilor - with baza, Dragos Neagu, Marius | ||||||
20-30cm powder. Snowfall looking lovely in our headlights
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Sat 25th Nov 2023 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Cheile Bicăjelului Prima faleză Sector 2 | |||||||
M5 | ★ Johnny Jamma - with Mara Miron | 16m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
M6 | ★★★ Feelin' Frisky - with Mara Miron | 16m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
M5 | ★ Johnny Jamma - with Mara Miron | 16m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
M6 | ★★★ Feelin' Frisky - with Mara Miron | 16m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
M5 | ★ Johnny Jamma - with Mara Miron | 16m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 20th Nov 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||
Padina lui Călineţ Văi şi brâne | |||||||
M2 | Brâul de Mijloc - with Andrei Badea | ||||||
A completely different fucking experience in unconsolidated winter snow. Our initial plan had been climbier, but blizzard conditions meant we decided to stick to easy alpine. Was ... not super easy. Also managed to take a tumble into the bushes near the bivy spot, lol. As the poem says, "agatat in vid de-un jneapan" XD
Did the bit from Scara de Fier to Amfiteatrul Coltilor Gemeni. Small detour on what was probably a portion of Braul cu Scorusi (we saw a mouse!) .Wanted to do the median portion of Valea Podurilor, but the entrance traverse would have been too sketchy (and impossible to protect) in the current conditions. Having nothing better to do, we tried to see if you can get from the lower saddle of ACG to the upper one on the ridge rather than by descending and ascending. You can, it's 1 40m pitch of M2 with marginal pro opportunities (climbing the "fang" itself is sketchy AF due to super chossy rock and the aforementioned shit pro, but there's a ledge to be taken left after the initial chimney) and 1 rap down off a tree near the ledge (red cordelette now on it) |
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Sun 19th Nov 2023 - Făgărașului Massif | |||||||
Bâlea Lac (Bâlea Lake) Bâlea | |||||||
M3 | Piscul Bâlii - with Ionut Stirbu, Dan Colniceanu | ||||||
Alpine rope techniques class. We retreated off the penultimate peak since we wanted to catch the cabin down and we had moved quite slowly, since, again, classtime Absolutely lovely weather, 40-50cm unconsolidated powder snow.
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Sat 18th Nov 2023 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||
Valea Vlăduşca - Vâlcelul Căldării Ocolite Văi şi brâne | |||||||
1A | Traseul Anghelide - with Dan Colniceanu, Ionut Stirbu, Smaranda Tolosano | ||||||
On descent. Alpine rope technique class. 10-20cm snow
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M3 | Vâlcelul Crăiţei - with Dan Colniceanu, Ionut Stirbu, Smaranda Tolosano | ||||||
Alpine rope technique class. Straight up unti the traverse to Anghelide canyon, rather than taking any of the right chimneys.
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Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Cheile Turenilor | |||||||
Zona Ţancurilor Peretele Spălat | |||||||
6- | ★ Buha | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Cheile Turenilor | |||||||
Zona Ţancurilor Peretele Ascuns | |||||||
5 | ★ Codruț | 30m | |||||
6+ | Moș Crăciun | 30m | |||||
6 ~6+ | ★★ Poseidon | 20m | |||||
Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Caraiman | |||||||
Văi şi brâne | |||||||
1A | ★★ Brâna Portiţei | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Up to the Portita. Beachtime, and vibing away with the mountain goats.
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Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Cheile Turenilor | |||||||
Zona Ţancurilor Ţancul Geamăn Drept | |||||||
7 | Cot în bot | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
5+ | ★★ Diagonal | 50m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Cheile Turenilor | |||||||
Zona Ţancurilor Ţancul Fetelor | |||||||
5 | ★★ Fetelor | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 11th Nov 2023 - Săndulești | |||||||
Grotă | |||||||
6B+ Hard | ★★ Ultimate survivor — 3 attempts | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Sun 5th Nov 2023 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Suhardul Mic | |||||||
4 |
Traseul Spintecăturii
- with
RPF, Mihai Jiga
2
lead by
RPF
The initial overhanging dihedral has some rather friable stuff for handholds... some of it relatively large. The way the pro goes, there's a point where as a second what you dislodge will come over your rope. Stressful. In an attempt to avoid that, I ended up hanging free in the void - and of course it's the one day I have a single Prussik on me, the Tibloc I borrowed doesn't work on a 7.8mm with the biner it came with and I'm not feeling peachy about sling prussiks, having never practiced that stuff (I know VT knots exist, but that's basically it). I ask for a lower, just in time for the rain to start. All in all, a learning experience | 53m | Don't Bother | ||||
First time I feel like I don't want to be on this route again.
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Sat 4th Nov 2023 - Vadu Crişului | |||||||
Terasele superioare | |||||||
6 ~6+ | Wind | ||||||
6- | ★★ Perfect day | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
There are two huge rocks which need to be avoided. They can fall in any moment.
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6 ~6+ | ★★ Samurai | 25m | |||||
6 | Kimono | 25m | |||||
Fri 3rd Nov 2023 - Vadu Crişului | |||||||
Terasele superioare | |||||||
6- | ★ Sensei | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
6- ~5+ | ★ Kia | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
6- Hard | ★★ Aramis 1 | 27m | ★ Good | ||||
6- Hard | ★ Aramis 2 | 27m | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 3rd Nov 2023 - Cheile Turenilor | |||||||
Zona Ţancurilor Peretele Ascuns | |||||||
7- | ★★ Neptun — 2 attempts - with Andreea Danciu | 20m | |||||
6+ | Moș Crăciun - with Andreea Danciu | 30m | |||||
First climb of the day
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8- | ★★ Calipso - with Andreea Danciu | 20m | |||||
Tue 31st Oct 2023 - Cheile Turenilor | |||||||
Zona Ţancurilor Ţancul Mare | |||||||
7+ | Quinoa | 20m, 7 | Average | ||||
Tue 31st Oct 2023 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Plus Sector 1 | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Plictisit de viață, plictisit de moarte - with Mihai Badila | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Plictisit de viață, plictisit de moarte - with Deb Ungureanu | 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Tired AF.
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6a+ |
★★ Plictisit de viață, plictisit de moarte P1
- with
Deb Ungureanu
1
6a+
| 20m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 30th Oct 2023 - Cheile Turzii | |||||||
Peretele din Belvedere | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Abis | 28m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7- | ★★ Avântul | ★ Good | |||||
Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Șuncuiuş | |||||||
Music Land | |||||||
5+ | ★★ Piticot | 20m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6- | ★★ Sfarmă Piatră | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
7- | ★ unknown 2 | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Băile Herculane | |||||||
Cheile Pecinişca Sector 6 "Diaclaza mare" | |||||||
6c | ★ Hades — 3 attempts - with Cristina Melichian | 20m, 15 | ★ Good | ||||
6c | ★ Hades — 2 attempts - with Cristina Melichian | 20m, 15 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Iași | |||||||
Bucium Poligonul 3 | |||||||
5a | ★★★ 15 | 9m, 4 | |||||
Still scared of this one even with a long draw in the crux
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5 | 14 | ||||||
Got a bit confused
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5c | ★★★ Veverița/Squirrel | 9m, 5 | |||||
Swingtime
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4 | 1 | ||||||
In sneakers
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Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Cheile Turzii | |||||||
Peretele Cald Hornul Vulturilor | |||||||
8- Easy | ★★ Show gratuit | 9m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Cheile Turenilor | |||||||
Zona Ţancurilor Peretele Ascuns | |||||||
7- | ★★ Neptun - with Andrea Danciu | 20m | |||||
6 | ★★ Poseidon - with Andrea Danciu | 20m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Rimetea | |||||||
Coada Pietrei Sector 8 | |||||||
8- | ★★ Soare apune | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Rimetea | |||||||
Coada Pietrei Sector 7 | |||||||
7+ | ★★ Fiul ploii | 25m, 6 | |||||
Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Cheile Turzii | |||||||
Peretele Cald La Răcoare | |||||||
7- | ★ Decretul 6 | 23m, 5 | |||||
7- | ★★ Gâde | 23m | |||||
7- | Acuzatul | 29m, 8 | |||||
Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Făgetul Ciucului | |||||||
4+ |
★★★ Traseul Poştei
- with
Gabriel Florariu
| 70m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 29th Oct 2023 - Cheile Șugăului | |||||||
Faleza de lângă Cabană | |||||||
5a+/b | ★★★ unknown 10 - with Gabriel Florariu | 15m, 7 | |||||
6a | ★★ unknown 7 - with Gabriel Florariu | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
5a+/b | ★★★ unknown 10 - with Gabriel Florariu | 15m, 7 | |||||
6a+ | ★★ unknown 9 - with Gabriel Florariu | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6a | ★★ unknown 7 - with Gabriel Florariu | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Cheile Turzii | |||||||
Peretele Cald La Răcoare | |||||||
7- | Târgşor | 12m, 2 | |||||
6+ | Chilia Veche | 15m, 4 | |||||
7- | ★ Poarta Albă | 29m, 8 |