Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sun 4th Feb 2024 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Lapoș Gorge Lapoș II | |||||||
WI4- ~WI3 | ★ Lapoș II - with Mara Miron | 32m | ★ Good | ||||
WI4- ~WI3 | ★ Lapoș II - with Mara Miron | 32m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 3rd Feb 2024 - Coștila | |||||||
Văi şi brâne | |||||||
1B | ★★★ Hornul Coamei - with ionut brencea | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
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4 | ★★ Valea Gălbinelelor (principal) - with a merry bunch | ★★ Very Good | |||||
Good snow, all covered
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Sat 3rd Feb 2024 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Cheile Bicăjelului Prima faleză Sector 2 | |||||||
M6 | ★★★ Feelin' Frisky - with Mara Miron | 16m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Cleaning the route.
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M6 | ★★★ Feelin' Frisky - with Mara Miron | 16m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 3rd Feb 2024 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Cheile Bicăjelului Faleza nouă | |||||||
M9 Hard | ★★★ Helvegen - with Mara Miron | 17m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
With gear on me. D9+.
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M10 | ★★★ Endorphin - with Mara Miron | 19m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Retro-flash, with gear on me. After 2 years. Forgot some holds but managed the dyno move on the 3rd swing. Solid D10.
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M7 Easy | ★★★ Urur - with Mara Miron | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
M7 Easy | ★★★ Urur - with Mara Miron | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
M7 Easy | ★★★ Urur - with Mara Miron | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
M7 Easy | ★★★ Urur - with Mara Miron | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Fri 2nd Feb 2024 - Muchia Cheii | |||||||
Cheile Râşnovului New Dry-tooling Crag | |||||||
M4 | 2 | 10m | |||||
M6 | ★ 4 | 12m | |||||
Tue 30th Jan 2024 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Cheile Bicăjelului Cascade gheață | |||||||
WI4 | Bicăjel 2 | 35m | |||||
WI3 | Bicăjel 1 | 35m | |||||
Mon 29th Jan 2024 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Lapoș Gorge Lapoș II | |||||||
WI4- ~WI3 | ★ Lapoș II - with Bursuc Sergiu | 32m | ★ Good | ||||
Climbed the hanging icicle on the left, with a pre-placed screw at around 5m from the ground. Nice
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WI4- ~WI3 | ★ Lapoș II - with Bursuc Sergiu | 32m | ★ Good | ||||
Quite thin and rotten, but okish. Placed only 5 screws.
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WI4- ~WI3 | ★ Lapoș II - with Bursuc Sergiu | 32m | ★ Good | ||||
Quite thin and rotten, but okish. Placed only 5 screws.
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Sun 28th Jan 2024 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Cheile Bicăjelului Cascade gheață | |||||||
WI4 | Bicăjel 2 - with Tiberiu Popa, madalin | 35m | |||||
And 3. Really flailing now and just going up as fast as possible because I know I'll run out of gas. My feet cut out somewhere on the vert bit as I'm reaching for the next tool strike, the only reason this is not a hangdog is the loose Reverso belay that had me stop on my other tool rather than on the rope This brings focus. About halfway up the vert bit I run out of biceps gas entirely. The rest of it is climbed on focus, feet and tools used for balance rather than weightbearing.
Really feels like I'm learning things. Dubious ice tool and crampon things, but things nevertheless. |
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WI4 | Bicăjel 2 - with Tiberiu Popa, madalin | 35m | |||||
And take 2....
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WI4 | Bicăjel 2 - with Tiberiu Popa, madalin | 35m | |||||
Soooo, this becomes a different route on each lap, doesn't it? Take 1.
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WI4 | Bicăjel 2 - with Tiberiu Popa, madalin | 35m | |||||
Second lap back to back, after seeing I reached the top with no pump last time
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WI4 | Bicăjel 2 - with Tiberiu Popa, madalin | 35m | |||||
WI4 | Bicăjel 2 - with Tiberiu Popa, madalin | 35m | |||||
Newly sharpened ice tools. Hit the ice as I used to need to, got one so stuck that I had to rest on the rope to recuperate it lol
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Sat 27th Jan 2024 - Cheile Aiudului | |||||||
Pădurea cu Bloc i - est | |||||||
6C | ★ Good feeling — 8 attempts | ★ Good | |||||
Sat 27th Jan 2024 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Cheile Bicăjelului Prima faleză Sector 2 | |||||||
M6 | ★★★ Feelin' Frisky - with Andrei Verdeanu, Ruxandra V | 16m, 9 | |||||
M4 | ★★ No Woman No Cry - with Andrei Verdeanu, Ruxandra V | 16m, 8 | |||||
Sat 27th Jan 2024 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Cheile Bicăjelului Faleza nouă | |||||||
M7 Easy | ★★★ Urur - with Tiberiu Popa, andreea branza, madalin, Andrei Verdeanu, mara miron | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
I have been informed it's probably not M7 anymore, but I really didn't expect I'd get to the top even hangdogging. The route itself is wonderful, wide dihedral climbing with fine feet, climbs like multipitch.
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Sat 27th Jan 2024 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Cheile Bicăjelului Prima faleză Sector 2 | |||||||
M5 | ★ Johnny Jamma — 2 attempts - with Tiberiu Popa, andreea branza, madalin | 16m, 8 | Average | ||||
Somehow, between the waterfall endurance, learning a thing or two about movement efficiency and moving the secondary grips on my Quarks 5cm higher, something happened, I don't know what, and this all went in control. Strange to have this "in control" feeling on climbing that's nontrivial for me.
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M4 Easy | ★★ No Woman No Cry - with Tiberiu Popa, andreea branza, madalin | 16m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sat 27th Jan 2024 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Cheile Bicăjelului Faleza nouă | |||||||
M9 Hard | ★★★ Helvegen - with Mara Miron | 17m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
With gear on me, first try.
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M9 | ★★ Hagal - with Mara Miron | 17m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
With gear on me, first try.
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M7 Easy | ★★★ Urur - with Mara Miron | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
M7 Easy | ★★★ Urur - with Mara Miron | 15m, 9 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sat 27th Jan 2024 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Cheile Bicăjelului Prima faleză Sector 2 | |||||||
M6 | ★★★ Feelin' Frisky - with Mara Miron | 16m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
M5 | ★ Johnny Jamma - with Mara Miron | 16m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 26th Jan 2024 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Cheile Bicăjelului Cascade gheață | |||||||
WI3 ~WI3- |
Bicăjel 1 P1
- with
Mara Miron
1
| 35m | Average | ||||
WI3 ~WI3- |
Bicăjel 1 P1
- with
Mara Miron
1
| 35m | Average | ||||
WI3 ~WI3- |
Bicăjel 1 P1
- with
Mara Miron
1
| 35m | Average | ||||
Wed 24th Jan 2024 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Cheile Bicăjelului Prima faleză Sector 2 | |||||||
M8 Hard | Moon Trip — 2 attempts - with Tiberiu Popa | 25m, 15 | |||||
Norocos ca am prins raul inghetat. Un traseu tehnic cu o varietate de miscari.
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Wed 24th Jan 2024 - Munții Bistriței | |||||||
WI4 ~WI4+ | ★★ Zugreni Icefall - with Gabriel Florariu | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
WI4 ~WI4+ | ★★ Zugreni Icefall - with Gabriel Florariu | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
WI4 ~WI4+ | ★★ Zugreni Icefall - with Gabriel Florariu | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
WI4 ~WI4+ | ★★ Zugreni Icefall - with Gabriel Florariu | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Onsight ascent on very tricky conditions. Very cold day out, with gusts of wind exceeding 80kmh. Thin, hollow, brittle, and chandeliered ice, built over successive layers and air pockets. Decided to place only 2 screws on the main vertical pillar.
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Sat 20th Jan 2024 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Cheile Bicăjelului Cascade gheață | |||||||
WI4 | Bicăjel 2 - with a merry bunch | 35m | |||||
tried the rightmost line, fell off on a bit of rotten ice
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WI4 | Bicăjel 2 - with a merry bunch | 35m | |||||
WI3 |
Bicăjel 1 P2
- with
doru buzac, mihai jiga
2
| 35m | Don't Bother | ||||
backpack on
|
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WI3 |
Bicăjel 1 P2
- with
doru buzac, mihai jiga
2
| 35m | Don't Bother | ||||
WI3 |
Bicăjel 1 P2
- with
doru buzac, mihai jiga
2
| 35m | Don't Bother | ||||
Still too young
|
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WI4 | Bicăjel 2 - with Tiberiu Popa | 35m | |||||
Started with good flow, got a tad freaked out near the top and rested on the rope while I figured out what to do
|
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WI4 | Bicăjel 2 - with Tiberiu Popa | 35m | |||||
Getting the hang of this, reached the top with little pump. Can believe Vanturis is WI4 now
|
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WI4 | Bicăjel 2 - with Tiberiu Popa | 35m | |||||
Wed 17th Jan 2024 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Cheile Bicăjelului Cascade gheață | |||||||
WI3 ~WI3- |
Bicăjel 1 P1
- with
Bursuc Sergiu
1
| 35m | Average | ||||
Lead solo. Second pitch only.
|
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WI3 ~WI3- |
Bicăjel 1 P1
- with
Bursuc Sergiu
1
| 35m | Average | ||||
Second pitch only.
|
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WI3 ~WI3- |
Bicăjel 1 P1
- with
Bursuc Sergiu
1
| 35m | Average | ||||
Second pitch only.
|
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WI4 | Bicăjel 2 - with Bursuc Sergiu | 35m | Don't Bother | ||||
Still not ok for lead. A bit risky.
|
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WI4 | Bicăjel 2 - with Bursuc Sergiu | 35m | Don't Bother | ||||
Still not ok for lead. A bit risky.
|
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Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Sinaia | |||||||
Zona Vânturiș | |||||||
WI3+ ~WI3 | ★★★ Cascada Vânturiș - with Dana Bazacliu | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Really cool, highly featured ice, the initial pillar almost feels like dancing. Did this once in the morning, came out of it super pumped. Spent the day running laps on the mini-waterfall above it, trying to train my brain in wasting less energy. Tried it again at the end of the day when I already felt tired and beat, came out on top with barely any pump. Yay learning
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Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||
Padina lui Călineţ Văi şi brâne | |||||||
1B | Brâul de Sus - with Andrei Badea | ||||||
Hornul N portion. Retreated pretty quickly due to shit snow
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1B | Padina lui Călineţ - firul principal - with Andrei Badea | ||||||
Good snow up to Saritoarea Mare, snow deposits and some windslab above. Most obstacles partially uncovered. We roped up for the last big obstacle (my head not in it that day) and descended the way since climbing nontechnical terrain on shit snow in high winds didn't sound fun
|
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Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Cheile Bicăjelului Cascade gheață | |||||||
WI4 | Bicăjel 2 — 2 attempts - with Tiberiu Popa, Andrei Verdeanu | 35m | Average | ||||
2nd attempt got it clean
|
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WI4 | Bicăjel 2 - with Tiberiu Popa | 35m | Don't Bother | ||||
Wet and delicate, too brittle for lead.
|
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WI4 | Bicăjel 2 - with Golodin Iustin | 35m | Don't Bother | ||||
Wet and delicate, too brittle for lead.
|
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Sat 6th Jan 2024 - Bucşoiul | |||||||
Padina Crucii | |||||||
M2 | Muchia Padinei Crucii - with a merry bunch | Don't Bother | |||||
Worst approach-to-technical terrain ratio ever. 2 very short pitches, at most M2, on friable bullshit that the new bolts improve but can't fix, and you do about 1500m altitude diff on trail and grass face for it. The company was lovely though, and at least it was good cardio, am not feeling v peaky these days
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Sat 6th Jan 2024 - Cheile Șugăului | |||||||
Faleza de lângă Cabană | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ unknown 9 - with Mara Miron | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6a | ★★ unknown 7 - with Mara Miron | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6a | ★★ unknown 7 - with Mara Miron | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 4th Jan 2024 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Cheile Bicăjelului Prima faleză Sector 1 | |||||||
M10 | ★★★ Natural Killer — 2 attempts | 26m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Faina traversarea. Mișcări lungi dar prize bune.
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Tue 2nd Jan 2024 - Caraiman | |||||||
Văi şi brâne | |||||||
1A | Valea Albă - with Dan Colniceanu | ★★ Very Good | |||||
On descent, horribly loose avalanche boulders under the Blid
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Tue 2nd Jan 2024 - Caraiman | |||||||
Peretele Albişoarelor | |||||||
★★ Brâul Văii Albe - with Dan Colniceanu | ★★ Very Good | ||||||
Almost no snow
|
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M3 | Albişoara Brânei - with Dan Colniceanu | ||||||
Good snow up to the Amphitheater, almost none after. Obstacles covered in the lower side, above we had a fun lil bit of drytooling, and an ice chimney that unfortunately mostly had ice on the exit
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Tue 2nd Jan 2024 - Cheile Turzii | |||||||
Peretele Cald Hornul Vulturilor | |||||||
8- ~7+ ~7+ | ★★ Show gratuit - with David Darie | 9m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
7- | ★ Mitică - with David Darie | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
Tue 2nd Jan 2024 - Piatra Craiului | |||||||
Măgura Faleza Mică | |||||||
5+ | ★★★ Uranus — 2 attempts | 10m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 1st Jan 2024 - Cheile Șugăului | |||||||
Faleza de lângă Cabană | |||||||
6a | ★★ unknown 7 - with Mara Miron | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6a+ | ★★ unknown 9 - with Mara Miron | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
6a | ★★ unknown 7 - with Mara Miron | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 1st Jan 2024 - Cheile Șugăului | |||||||
CN 2004 versantul stâng | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Pippin - with Mara Miron | 17m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
6a+ | ★★ Pippin - with Mara Miron | 17m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sun 31st Dec 2023 - Cheile Turzii | |||||||
Peştera Ungurească | |||||||
6b | Zoliko — 2 attempts - with David Darie | ||||||
Sat 30th Dec 2023 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Piatra Altarului | |||||||
A0 M5 |
★★★ Creasta Estică
- with
alex
3
M3
lead by
alex
did it in 2 pitches
4
M4
lead by
alex
First time I do this pitch clean, even as a second. must mean drytooling is aid
5
A0 M5
lead by
alex
Completely different fucking story on irons - all my footsmears no longer work. Got super pumped on the biscuit (still can't do a pullup), took me some time until I figured out I could get my right foot behind it. After that, pulled on a draw in the traverse and struggled a bit for the rest of the pitch.... really pumped
6
M3
lead by
alex
Kinda similar to the summer chimneying version | 240m, 15 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
A completely different route when drytooling. Also found out about an entrance I didn't know
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Sat 30th Dec 2023 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Cheile Bicăjelului Prima faleză Sector 1 | |||||||
M7/8 | ★ Little Bad Boy - with alex | 18m, 11 | |||||
Trying the initial moves
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M8 | ★★★ Harmonica - with alex | 20m, 11 | |||||
Trying the initial moves
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Sat 30th Dec 2023 - Cheile Șugăului | |||||||
CN 2004 versantul stâng | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Pippin - with Mara Miron | 17m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
In approach shoes.
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6b+ Hard | ★★★ Merry - with Mara Miron | 25m, 14 | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
With gear on me.
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Fri 29th Dec 2023 - Cheile Turzii | |||||||
Peştera Ungurească | |||||||
7- Easy | ★★ Ursaru - with David Darie | 5m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 29th Dec 2023 - Făgărașului Massif | |||||||
Văiuga | |||||||
M3 | ★★★ Muchia vestică - with dragos neagu | 300m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Love.
My first winter lead (as opposed to winter gully solos, which are far lower responsibility). 4/5 avalanche risk (thankfully the wind that had created it had blown mostly westwards) so we kept to the rock more than the first documented ascent, which avoids the notch on the last portion of the ridge by a gully on the left... which we avoided since we wanted to not be found in early summertime with flowers growing out of our mouths, and took the ridge proper except for one sketchy downclimb and snow ledge traverse when the ridge got committing enough that I wasn't sure I could downclimb back if it turned out the V notch wasn't easily downclimbable/rappellable. Well, I say sketchy, but it was easy secure and protectable M2, it was just that I wouldn't have setup a 8m downclimb for a beginner second if I could have helped it without getting in worse trouble. It was all easy terrain, somehow you could find a M3 version of anything as long as you were willing to accept the zigzags and the runouts. Mostly shortpitched, with a bit of shortrope on the snow bits and full belay on the last portion of the ridge where shit gets weird, Lots of rime, 30cm long blades in many places, could play havoc with your rope if you weren't careful. Dull Sarkens far better than sharp Darts for this sort of terrain since they stick well in such shit. And such an adventure, the easy rock and good weather made doable a lot of alpine fuckery. Classical Fagaras schist pro only for babies like me I'll think about this climb for a long time. All I knew was the grade, a line drawn in Paint on a picture of Vaiuga west face, and one of my guide friends saying I could handle it on lead. He was right. Love. |
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Thu 28th Dec 2023 - Coștila | |||||||
Văi şi brâne | |||||||
1B | ★★★ Hornul Coamei - with baza | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||||
Really cool conditions (mostly dry in the lower side, hard ice patches) but after the approach from hell we were out of time. Rapped down from below the Furci icefall (not yet formed).
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1B | ★★ Valea Gălbinelelor (principal) - with baza | Crap | |||||
Horribly aerated snow up to Saritoarea Mare. Some sort of unholy marshmallow consistency. Nasty rimaye next to the first obstacle
|
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Wed 27th Dec 2023 - Cheile Turzii | |||||||
Peretele Cald Băieţi Buni | |||||||
7- | ★★ De Pomană | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
repeat, nice and easy
|
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Wed 27th Dec 2023 - Cheile Turzii | |||||||
Peretele Cald Hornul Vulturilor | |||||||
8- | ★★ Show gratuit | 9m | ★ Good | ||||
6c at most, very short and soft
|
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Tue 26th Dec 2023 - Sihla | |||||||
Bloc 29 | |||||||
6A+ | Frumuseţe trecătoare - with Mara Miron | 4m | |||||
5A | Penthouse - with Mara Miron | 3m | |||||
6B | Falbala - with Mara Miron | 3m | |||||
Sun 24th Dec 2023 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Cheile Bicăjelului Prima faleză Sector 1 | |||||||
M7/8 ~M8 | ★ Little Bad Boy — 2 attempts | 18m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 23rd Dec 2023 - Bicaz Gorge | |||||||
Cheile Bicăjelului Prima faleză Sector 2 | |||||||
M6 | ★★★ Feelin' Frisky - with alex | 16m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
With a lot of coaching, I managed to place my first stein and weigh it properly. Then killed my forearms for the following ages since the next move is 15cm longer than I am - think I found some way of doing it but not sure I can repeat it lol. The slab above went easily - the Darts are truly a wonder of modern technology
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M5 | ★ Johnny Jamma — 3 attempts - with alex | 16m, 8 | Average | ||||
Still didn't manage to do it in one go, but it's beginning to look possible, it's mostly a forgetting the plan issue now
|
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M4 Easy | ★★ No Woman No Cry — 2 attempts - with alex | 16m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
First one went well. Last time to clean the anchor, I managed to meander over everything.
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Fri 22nd Dec 2023 - Cheile Turzii | |||||||
Peştera Ungurească | |||||||
6+ | ★★ Auraru — 2 attempts - with David Darie | 10m | ★★ Very Good |
Rappel line we used with 2x60: one end of the ropes one from the Window to just above the piton at the entrance in Furcile lui Baticu, one 15m one from that to the bolt, one long but not full length one to a 2-piton belay station (on a ledge to the left of the chimney proper) and another end-of-the-ropes one to a few easily downclimbable m above the start