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Summary
Sandstone
The New River Gorge is one of the major climbing destinations in the USA. Endless cliffs along both sides of the river with high quality sandstone offer sport and trad climbing as well as bouldering.
Description
Even though the New River Gorge (combined with the nearby crags of Summersville Lake, Meadow River and Gauley River) can be seen as one of the biggest and best climbing areas of the US it is internationally less known and generally less visited than the Red river Gorge that is just a day drive away.
Seasons are similar to the Red River Gorge with fall and spring as the best but you can climb year long and will find dry routes even when it rained.
Located in beautiful West Virginia the area offers way more than climbing, notably water sports such as rafting on the nearby rivers or just chilling at Summersville lake.
Approach
The New River Gorge is located near Fayetteville in West Virginia (WV), about a 90 minute drive from the capitol Charleston. It is best reached by car as you will need a car to get to the many crags and around the area.
Where to stay
There are multiple campgrounds (most notably the American Alpine Club Campground) and cabin rental options. Free camping is almost impossible (with the exception of a small campsite near Summersville dam).
History
The New River Gorge is a historic place. It was marked by coal mining until the earlier 20th century and many remnants of it may be found while hiking through the dense forests. Enjoy them on your way to the cliff or on a rest day.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Mike Williams
Date: 2021
ISBN: 978193839402
- Wolverine
- Volume 2 of New River Rock documents the climbing north of the main gorge of the New, with over 1,400 routes on the crags along the Meadow and Gauley rivers and surrounding Summersville Lake.
- Details 1,400 routes
- Includes a detailed history of the area and camping and visitor info
- Color photography throughout
- Every book purchase supports the New River Gorge Climber's Alliance
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Author(s): Eric J. Horst
Date: 2013
- FalconGuides:
- The revised and updated edition of Rock Climbing Virginia, West Virginia and Maryland describes more than 1200 routes at 23 different areas including Seneca Rocks and the New River Gorge.
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Accommodations nearby more Hide
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Nearby Icons
| 5.9 | ★★★ Flight of the Gumbie | ||
| 5.10a | ★★★ The Rico Suave Arete | ||
| 5.10d | ★★★ Fairtracer | ||
| 5.11a | ★★★ Mig Squadron | ||
| 5.11c | ★★★ Right Son Of Thunder | ||
| 5.11d | ★★★ Leave It To Jesus | ||
| 5.12a R | ★★ Genocide | ||
| 5.12b | ★★★ The New Traditionalists | ||
| 5.13a | ★★ The Pocket Route | ||
| V8 | ★★★ Ali Bubba stand start | ||
| 5.13d | ★★ The Travisty | ||
| 5.14a | ★★★ Proper Soul |
Photos Browse all photos
★★★ Fantasy 5.8
Dan Cannaday on ★ Sixteenth Rung 5.10c - Dan clipping that pesky 4th bolt
Bridge Buttress - me the next morning after climing the pinnacle
Fri 12 May
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