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Dog Face

Seasonality

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Description

50m R of Wailing Wall.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles,Central Gully Left Side Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Tricky start then into the wide crack.

Start: Start on L end of Dog Wall.

FA: FRA The Cubbies (Fitzroy Adventure Playground) & late 80s, 2000

Up past a bolt.

Start: Start just R of CC.

FA: Steve Monks, 1986

Head diagonally L to join the bottomless corner on the arete.

Start: Start R of D.

FA: Graeme Smith, Bruce Somerfield & Ann Hurst, 1992

The corner then L around the roof.

Start: Start in the alcove R of K.

FA: Dave Gairns, Gordon Talbett & Mike Stone, 1978

The awkward offwidth (is there any other sort?)

Start: Start on the L side of the next buttress R of WD.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson & Phillip Stranger, 1966

You might see him on this route. Delicate and scary. Start: 2m Left of Howling Wolf at the arete.

Up arete to break. Difficult blind step up to top.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1997

The diagonal crack then the face.

Start: Start on the front of the nose between Reservoir Gods and Jackal.

FA: Matt Taylor & Rod Young, 1978

Warning Fixed Gear: The bolt has gone to the dogs.

The contrived squeezed-in arete between HW and J.

Start: Start just R of HW.

FA: Ant Callaghan & James Naylor, 1990

More wide crack thrashery.

“ What an absolute gem. Beautiful variety of cracks with an easy finish. Would 100% recommend.”

Start: Start under the R-facing dark wide crack on the R side of the HW buttress.

FA: Chris Dewhirst, Peter Jackson & Phillip Stranger, 1966

Body chimney right of Jackal.

FA: Peter Watson, Gabrielle Pellissier, Keith Egerton & Peter Cunningham, 1978

The rounded arete to the ledge, then a poorly protected grey slab and orange overlap. If you want a boring but better protected finish try the crack on the right.

Start: Start at the arete just R of F.

FA: Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder, 1978

The thin line.

Start: Start 2m R of PL.

FA: Kim Carrigan, John Smoothy & Rod Young, 1979

... gonna make you sweat, gonna make you groove.

Start just L of The Hard Ears.

Up over a bulge.

FA: Rod Young & Peter Watson, 1978

The chalked-up orange crack 10m R of Jackal.

FA: Mike Law, Chris Baxter & Ben Ewald, 1976

Start: Start 1m R of THE.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, Mike Stone & Gordon Talbett, 1978

A generous envisioning of a route. Presumably start behind the tree and maintain serious blinkers to climb anything resembling 18.

Start: 2m R of 'Yelping Pup'.

FA: Andy Reynolds & Simon McRae, 1995

The buttress with an overhang.

Start: Start in the gully R of The Hard Years.

FA: John Chapman & Gerry McPhee, 1979

On the black/grey slab, in the gully right of Dog Wall are the next 3 routes. You pass under them descending from Hard Ears. Up following juggy left edge of slab.

FA: Greg Pritchard & James Falla, 1999

The original rave review has been tempered by subsequent feedback, but it can keep a star for the moment.

Start: The subtle and improbable line 2m right of Two Dogs of Empiricism.

Up, finishing on arete.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Start: The tenuous line up the slab 2m right of 'Ball Terrier'.

FA: Richard Smith & Paul Hoskins, 1999

Start: An equally tenuous line up the slab right of IDKWtCi-D.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Richard Smith, 1999

Cooner Spunnilingus?

Start: In the back of the gully is a crack on the right wall, up higher.

Up this, avoiding temptation to bridge back.

FA: Richard Smith & solo, 1999

The grade has been lost due to a formatting glitch on arapiles.net.

Start: Start: The arete between 'Arethusa' and 'Bitch Wank'.

FA: Richard Smith & Paul Hoskins, 1999

With every ascent we'll throw in a free pump!

Start: Start in gully underneath the best part of the wall.

FA: Richard Smith, Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Awkward layback start, through little overlap and up.

Start: Start: On the pinnacle right of the black slab at the front.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1997

The pinnacle behind this has been dubbed Jeff Kennett's Buttocks.

Line up left end of wall.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1997

Up Jeff's Buttocks. The leftmost of two obvious cracks.

FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 1997

Wedged in the middle of Jeff's Buttocks. The easy looking right-hand crack.

FA: James Falla & Greg Pritchard, 1999

Did you know?

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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