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Charity Buttress

29

Seasonality

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F
M
A
M
J
J
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D

Description

The low-angled wall downhill and R of Wailing Wall.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Charity Buttress Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

As for Z then up L onto flake and up.

Start: Start as for Z.

FA: Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins & Suzie Frost, 1993

The crack up the front.

Start: Start at a small outcrop just L of the main 'Charity' Wall face.

FA: Mike & Jenny Ashton, 1987

FA: Goose & Rhi Taylor

The line starting just left of Charity

FA: Gordon & Heather Bedford, 1975

Up the crack.

Start: Start under the L crack on the main face.

FA: Bruce & Keith Lockwood, 1968

Crack line between Charity and Mercy. Up crack over bulge. Protect top at flake and a big reach to the right will give you the bolt on mercy before finishing the slab.

FA: Hywel Rowlands & Michael Battaini, Jun 2016

Start just right of 'Charity' and after 1m join Great Pissing Ledges.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Maureen Little, 2011

Much better now its retro bolted. Between 'Charity' and 'Hope' are 2 other cracks that stop at a small roof. Up the right hand of these cracks to roof, continue up through overlap and up slab with bolt.

FA: Deb Churches & Mark Witham, 1996

Up Great Pissing Ledges stopping below small roof then step right into 'Hope'.

Bottomless crack 3m R of Charity at the R crack.

FA: Rob Taylor & Jerry Grandage, 1968

Up the slabs, and step L around the top overlap.

Start: Start between H & F.

FA: Keith Egerton & Jim Grellis, 1975

Up the thin crack, with a small overhang halfway.

Start: Start 6m R of Hope.

FA: Jerry Grandage & Rob Taylor, 1968

The slabby arete just right of the big chimney left of 'Prudity'.

FA: Smith & G. Hoxley, 2000

Up the intermittant flakes, mostly terrible sounding, and a sea of moss in the middle of the slab between Debauchery and Prudity. You probably don't need to climb it.

FA: Wendy Eden, 26 Oct 2018

Up the L-facing corner.

Start: Start just R of a chimney which is on the R side of a mossy wall to the R of F.

FA: Ray Lassman & Keith Lockwood, 1981

The groove then directly over the bulge.

Start: Start at the next line R of P.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 1981

Ramble up the low angled buttress.

Start: Start at the next buttress R from T.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 1981

Diagonal crack.

Start: Start just R of P.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Ray Lassman, 1981

Climb the crack, step left on to face and up.

Start: Scramble up past 'Treachery' to next buttress.

FA: Pete & Meg Holmes., 2001

Finishes further left than the original

FA: Peter Holmes & Phil Da Costa, 2003

Climb crack, step out right onto face. Climb through roof and up.

Start: Start as for Gabriel's Oboe.

FA: Pete & Meg Holmes, 2001

Climb the face to small roof, traverse left and over the roof on good rock.

Start: Just right and up from 'Charity Buttress' is a small wall.

FA: Pete Holmes & Phil DaCosta, 2003

A separate buttress 10m right of Purity and approximately 7 metres left of Heatherbell. Climb face , using the crack at 8m for gear and holds. Up to large ledge at 12m, step right 1m to gain crack with gear for the crux move to summit.

FA: Pete Holmes & Patrick Eastment, 2014

A separate buttress 12m right of Purity, 3m right of Beguiled. Appears to be rib on left edge of buttress with a bit of orange on it. Climb the face then move to the arete, through the overhang and easily on.

FA: Peter Holmes & Craig Mildwaters, 2010

Up low angled face 2m right of 'Dignity' to summit.

FA: Pete Holmes & James Best, 2014

A separate buttress 15m right of Purity and 3m right of Clemency. Climb the most left hand line. (Most likely same buttress as Heatherbell ). A low angled climb with the crux being the first moves off the ground on grey rock. Requires RPs to protect the initial moves,

FA: Pete Holmes & Mike Totterdell, 2012

The RH line up the small orange buttress.

Start: Start 20m R of 'Treachery'.

FA: Gordon & Heather Bedford, 1993

Below Treachery is a buttress shaped like a shark's fin. Start on the orange rock facing into Central Gully. Up the diagonal crack to the arete then up.

FA: Peter Holmes & Tim Proctor, 2011

Below Treachery is a buttress shaped like a shark's fin. Up the middle of the face, moving left of the small nose.

FA: Peter Holmes & Meg Holmes, 2012

Down left and across the gully from Deep Freeze Wall is a small buttress. It's actually beneath the right end of Charity Buttress so maybe should be included in that area. Anyway, 2 fairly worthless lines on this buttress have been done by Jon Muir and Geoff Little.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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