Ascents by Tom Baanders

Pretty bloody happy with my effort on this. Had to dig deep for it. End of the day after a spell of rain. Found the sting much much easier to onsight. The moves on this aren’t any harder but fiddling around with the gear to get the correct sizes in and a bit of down climbing to recompose builds the pump. Punchy little number.

Quite dirty needs a going over with a wire brush. Cool technical climbing that I was really psyched on until I hit the break above the 5th bolt expecting to find a jug instead it was a sloper so I bailed, had it been a good hold I would’ve been more inspired to keep at it.

In the rain, top 3rd of the crack was very wet, made for a good challenge had to work for it

One go in last light. Wicked crux section. Took a couple of attempts to stick it, then was hard to see cam placements in the dark

Absolutely gem of a route, the two crux pitches are sick. Two days of effort, rainy, cloudy and very cold on first day sussing the route then glorious send day in the sun. I will update number of bolts and rap gps. Very accessible harder multi in the area. Onsighted every pitch but the crux, which went down first go next day. Sarah was very close on the 3rd pitch. Long draws are nice on the crux pitch to prevent drag, bolting is very close, ended up skipping a couple of them. All the anchors/rap stations are double hangers, have to leave biners or draws on them on the way down.

Two attempts. Fell at last draw on second attempt very close very fun

Draws were on. Mostly an onsight apart from Deanos quite crucial one word suggestion. 3 stars

Was either on this or the living end (28) hard to tell with old guide topo and the link up bolts. First half had quite small nasty holds, second half was fun. 3rd and 5th bolt are quite weird dog legs to the left, not sure what’s going on there

Draws were on. Very enjoyable rock climb

Attempted onsight last year, fell at crux, was pumped from overgripping on the runout. Went super smoothly this time round. The type of climb one does not forget. Makes the runout on Incipience feel like absolute child’s play

Ground up onsight first ascent. Cool adventure to kayak to the base and get up to the glorious edge of reason. This pitch however was loose, sketchy and sandier than Arrakis

Climbed a choss first pitch from the ground (kayak access) would name that pitch beyond the edge of reason, wouldn’t recommend. Edge of reason however is incredible

Agree with Gerry’s guide 1 star 22

Really cool little climb

night climb after belaying Sarah on it

Really cool. Sent first attempt after rapping down and scrubbing the top headwall, was quite filled with lichen

Flashed NIAD 9 hours. First time climbing The Captain

Crux pitch

Best rock in the galaxy. It has been my dream line ever since I first saw it a handful of years ago. Thought the first pitch was great too. Took me around 10 attempts. Asking for a bunch of slack and stepping off of the top for the victory whip got the heart racing, ending up down by the turret and having to climb it again from the belay to clean, bonus lap Scrubbed shit loads of chalk and ticks off, way too many ticks up there. Left a couple of pee bottles at the belay for other to use.

Did it without any trad gear. First 27 onsight. Not a trad climb dont know how to log as sport climb

2nd shot. oh so close to onsight, should have rested a bit longer after seconding deep play rather than jumping straight on.

Same day as sending ‘Helmet…’ mega route

The original grade of 25 felt very soft however it might depend on where your crux gear placement goes and what sections of holds/jams that allows you to use