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Start: Base of big obvious leftward leaning crack.

A soaring and beautiful looking curved crack. Described as one of the best routes in the State. The start is unmistakable - the immodest, arching crackline.

  1. 35m (21) The line spears leftwards up to a semi-detached flake.

  2. 35m (18) Glide leftwards again on excellent stone. Before the crack expires, head straight up slab to the top.

© (gremlin)

Route history

1974First ascent: Ian Thomas & Trevor Gynther

The initial slab and 10m of the crack was climbed free. The next 30 - 40m was aided on small stoppers except for a few moves somewhere in the middle where an obvious set of footholds present themselves. When the lead climber finally realised that he was lying down flat on the slab with his feet in aiders and that he could actually stand up without hands, he made his way, with some embarrassment, to the top! Originally graded 18 M2 or M3.

1979First free ascent: Tobin Sorenson & John Allen

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -28.82011, 151.94601

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

*** 21 Assigned grade
22 [20 - 22] + grAId

ethic

Most of the climbing areas are above well used bushwalking tracks. Take care of walkers and tread lightly. This area has had access problems in the past and underlying 'ban climbing' tensions are still around.

DO NOT PLACE ANY NEW BOLTS anywhere in the Park Boundary. (As per the 2010 Park Management Plan.) Climbing is banned altogether on the First Pyramid and The Sphinx. Stay off climbs here at ALL times.

inherited from Second Pyramid

Seasonality

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A
M
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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 93 from 19 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 10
Flash 1
Tick 8
Attempt 2
Target 3

Comment keywords

traverse flake crack feet technical super beautiful ripper amazing great good stoked awesome classic crux hard intimidating fall scary

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Tue 30 May
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