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Gruta de las Candelas All Sport climbing 25 routes in cliff

25
YDS
5.85.95.10a5.10c5.11a5.11c5.12a5.12c5.13a5.13c

Seasonality

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D

Description

La Gruta de las Candelas es la mas conocida de las zonas no solo por escaladores sino también por turistas comunes gracias a su fácil acceso.

Las Candelas is a limestone cave found on one of the hillsides above Guadalacazar. The routes here are very high quality and offer climbing on stalactites, tufas, and pockets.

The cave offers routes ranging from 5.10 to 5.13c and a super short approach, this is one of the best crags in the area. During the weekend this is a popular place for locals to cook and hang out.

Approach

From the entrance to Guadalcázar, drive out of town towards the highway and follow the signs up to the town of El Realejo. The turn off is marked by a small red building (bus stop) with signs displaying the caves. Drive up this road as it winds up the mountain for about 3km. Near the top of the mountain there is a sign saying Grutas on your right. Take a right onto the dirt road and park. Walk up the hill towards the obvious fence surrounding Las Candelas.

Ethic inherited from Guadalcázar

Most of the climbing in Guadalcázar is in limestone caves filled with stalactites. These caves have been forming for million years and have very delicate ecosystems. Please be respectful to the plants and animals that live in these caves. Stalactites can break and when they do it can be very dangerous for you or your partner. Wearing a helmet when climbing is recommended and being alert of your surrounds at all times.

When climbing on the stalactites, try to grab the stalactites at the strongest point. The closer to the wall you grab the stalactite the better. Climbing in these caves is a very different experience from any other type of rock and it is important to try to keep the stalactites intact as much as possible. Most of the routes in the cave have been cleaned well, but there is always the chance of a stalactite breaking. The rock in the cave is very solid and most of the time you wont break anything.

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Contents

Routes

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Grade Route

Main Wall Back to contents

These routes are on the main wall starting left to right and into the cave.

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2
5.11a ★★★ Paseo Escolar Sport 9m, 5

Climbing through hidden jugs on a steep wall, a lot harder than it looks. The leftmost route on the wall. This is actually one of the worst routes on this wall, despite its popularity. If it is your first time here and looking for something easy, better try Chukrut, it is a lot friendlier and fun.

FA: Lu Ramirez

3
5.11c ★★ Hurracarrana / Urracarana Sport 10m, 6

Climb up to the left edge of the massive hole then traverse the left side on jugs to the top.

Set: Lu Ramirez

FA: christian ehlert

4
5.11a ★★ Chukrut / Choucroute Sport 10m, 6

A bouldery start leads to large jugs to the top.

FA: christian ehlert

5
5.11c ★ Tufanfarria Sport 11m, 7

Starts on two large tufas and ends on the same anchors as Choucroute.

Set: Baraka

FA: Lu Ramirez

6
5.11d ★★★ Kathmandu Sport 16m, 8

Follows hidden jugs through massive huecos to the top of the wall.

Set: Lu Ramirez

FA: christian ehlert

7
5.13a ★★★ Crónicas de una Muerte Anunciada Sport

Newest line on the wall. Climbs relatively easy until a high crux

FA: Luis Cajero

8
5.13a ★★ Activista Digital Sport

Variante de África. Escalas toda la ruta hasta el último bolt antes de la reunión y te desvías a Crónicas, usando el último bolt y reunión de esta ruta. Combinando el crux de África y Crónicas

FA: Luis Cajero

9
5.12c ★★★ África Sport 17m, 10

The first route bolted in the cave and one of the best routes here.

Set: christian ehlert

FA: Vadir Lopez

10
5.12c ★★★ Oogie Boogie Sport 14m, 10

Climb through a series of pinches and crimps to reach the spectacular tufa. Pinch up the tufa and follow jugs to the anchors. Shares the same anchors with África. Classic!

FA: christian ehlert

11
5.13a ★★★ Nomak Sport 14m, 10

Start on large holds that changes into long moves on crimps to a good rest with a final boulder problem at the top.

FA: christian ehlert

12
5.13c ★★ Massai Mara Sport 28m, 15

Starts on the largest stalagmite at the left end of the cave and climbs out the underside of the roof ending at the highest set of anchors in the hole on the other side of the cave. Shares the anchor with Oagadougou, Chinguetti, and Vaacanda. Classic!

Set: christian ehlert

FA: Mauricio Huerta

13
5.13c Oagadougou Sport 35m, 22

Starts at the deepest part of the cave. Longest route in the cave. Ends in the whole in the ceiling at the highest set of anchors and shares the anchor with Chinguetti and Vaacanda.

Set: christian ehlert

FA: Javier Canche

14
5.13d ★★ Serenghuetti Sport

Empieza en Oagadougou. Starts on Oagadougou and finishes on the anchors of Zion, just above the stairs.

15
5.13d Zion Sport 30m, 19

Starts at the entrance of the other cave and follows big stalactites to a long endurance traverse to the lip of the cave. Ends at the entrance to the cave (anchors above stairs). Classic!

Set: Javier Canche

FA: Mauricio Huerta

16
5.13b/c ★★★ Chinguetti Sport 25m, 13

Climb the large stalactites just right of the tunnel to the other cave to the lip of the cave. Resting on the large stalagmite makes the grade to 12d/13a. Shares the anchor with Oagadougou and Vaacanda.

FA: christian ehlert

Cave Entrance Back to contents

These routes start from the entrance of the cave where the stairs go down to the platform. They start on the stalagmites left and right of the stairs.

18
5.13a ★★★ Vaacanda Sport 15m, 9

Climb through hundreds of hanging stalactites starting on a large stalagmite left of the stairs as you go down. One of the best routes in Las Candelas! Ends in the whole in the ceiling at the lower set of two anchors. Shares the anchor with Shangrila, Rabat, and Sri Lanka.

FA: christian ehlert

19
5.12a ★★★ Shangrila Sport 12m, 8

Start on top of the stalagmite at the cave entrance, just right of the stairs as you walk in, and climb out numerous hanging stalactites to the anchors (by the skylight). Shares the anchor with Vaacanda, Rabat, and Sri Lanka.

FA: christian ehlert

20
5.12b Rabat Sport 12m, 6

Start on top of the stalagmites right of the stairs at the cave entrance (second route) and climb through the stalactites to the anchor near the skylight. Shares the anchor with Vaacanda, Shangrila, and Sri Lanka.

FA: christian ehlert

21
5.12c Sri Lanka Sport 12m, 6

Start on top of the stalagmites right of the stairs at the cave entrance (3rd route) and climb through stalactites to a hard boulder problem right before you reach the final stalactites. Shares the anchor with Vaacanda, Shangrila, and Rabat, by the skylight.

FA: christian ehlert

Candle Area Back to contents

These routes start from the concrete paltform under the "skylight" from left (on the stalagmite) to right.

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23
5.9 ★★ Candelabros Sport 8m, 4

A cool start up a massive stalagmite leads to large stalagtites to the top.

24
5.9 ★ Eutanacia Sport 8m, 4

A fun steep start leads to juggy stalagtites to the top. First hanger missing.

FA: Gunter Ehlert

25
5.9 ★★ De Osteoporosis a la Eutanacia Sport 8m, 4

Start on 'La del Chaka' and traverses left through dirty rock to the anchors of Eutanacia.

26
5.9 ★ La del Chaka Sport 8m, 4

Juggy climbing through stalagtites leads to the top.

FA: Gunter Ehlert

27
5.8 ★★ Osteoporosis Sport 8m, 4

Juggy climbing through stalagtites just left of the organ pipes.

FA: Gunter Ehlert

28
5.10a ★★ Camplanita Sport 7m, 3

Climb the right side of the large column using pinches. Ends right below the cave’s ceiling. Anchors?

Set: Lu Ramirez

FA: Francisco Pena

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5.11a ★★★ Paseo Escolar
5.11d ★★★ Kathmandu
5.12c ★★★ África
5.13a ★★★ Crónicas de una Muerte Anunciada

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Maria Jose Soto on ★★★ Kathmandu 5.11d - IMG_E3991.JPG

★★★ Vaacanda 5.13a - 7C5BA02C-E6CB-4EC6-A766-6B7D2C8DCC36.jpeg

★★ Chukrut 5.11a - 30C0AE3C-1539-4321-880C-E5BA2C8A2A30.jpeg

Bernii on ★ Tufanfarria 5.11c - 20180208-ORG_DSC01211.jpg

Thu 25 May
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