El Realejo, Bouldering

BLDV

V0 V0+V1 V2 V3 V4 V5 V7 V9 V11 V13

Map

2 8 1 6 9 7 3 5 4

1 Cosmos 2 Jardines 3 Sangre Nueva 4 Área 37 5 Comadres 6 El Cuarto 7 Mezcaleros 8 Recepción 9 Los Cristales

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Description

The Cerro de Las Comadres is one of the tallest mountains in the area. The mountain is covered on all sides by hundreds of massive granite boulders. Sadly for climbers, most of the boulders are blank and featureless, but within the endless rock formations there are several boulder problems that are climbable and highly recommended. The Guadalcazar climbing scene was all started with the exploration of this hill. Today you can still find first ascents if you are up for exploring the hillside.

Approach

From the entrance to Guadalcazar, drive out of town towards the highway and follow the signs up to the town of El Realejo. The turn off is marked by a small red building with signs displaying the caves. Drive up this road as it winds up the mountain. Follow it straight until you reach a small town with a school on your right. Right of the school there is a one lane dirt road. Park at the front of the school and walk down the one lane road for 5-10 minutes. Stay on the road until it leads you to a trail and right into the boulder field.

Ethic inherited from Guadalcázar

Most of the climbing in Guadalcázar is in limestone caves filled with stalactites. These caves have been forming for million years and have very delicate ecosystems. Please be respectful to the plants and animals that live in these caves. Stalactites can break and when they do it can be very dangerous for you or your partner. Wearing a helmet when climbing is recommended and being alert of your surrounds at all times.

When climbing on the stalactites, try to grab the stalactites at the strongest point. The closer to the wall you grab the stalactite the better. Climbing in these caves is a very different experience from any other type of rock and it is important to try to keep the stalactites intact as much as possible. Most of the routes in the cave have been cleaned well, but there is always the chance of a stalactite breaking. The rock in the cave is very solid and most of the time you wont break anything.