Begehungen in Australien von Alex Mougenot haben sport-cpr oder ascent-date

Not a single bad pitch! Bolted perfectly - with bolts where you need them, mostly safe falls, and runouts where appropriate.

At times the line nudges you into hard terrain, but this rarely feels forced and will feel less so if you don't do much trad multipitching. Dirty down low, and loose rock in places throughout the rest of the route that will clean up with traffic. In time and further cleaning this will quickly become a testpiece I reckon!

A big day (After a week skiiing) mired by reminders of my lack of big day fitness and on-the-day hydration embodied in cramping hands, forearms, biceps and shoulders. The cramping was so bad in the last 20 pitch that I had to climb completely straight armed haha.

Did the 26, 27 and 28 pitches with a handful of falls. Aided through the 29 pitch with a stickclip which was hard with cramping even then! Plus, with only one headtorch between us (my bad!), the setting sun told us it was time to go haha. Standout pitches were the 28, 26, and 29. The 28 is the first of the wild steepness and exposure - steep jug/tufa blob pulling into a delectable vert techy headwall to finish. 26 was a short, but stellar clean vert face number, and although we didn't do the 29 - it looks like the cream of the crop. One of the most unique pitches I've seen in Aus on cool limestone features!

Very motivated to come back for this with a clean push. Thanks for the amazing day Dave! Couldn't have asked for a better partner for a fun big day out

Great climbing the whole way. From the ledge through to the anchors is stylish as. Pulling hard, techiness, delicate slabbing, burl. This line has it all! Thanks to Blake and Dan for the beta - I only had to figure out a few bits and bobs on the fly. 27 imo. Start boulder is no harder than V5, and doesn't make the top section harder

Fantastic! The first bolt placement is an interesting decision haha, with the runout above it. Great climbing, though this line will get harder over time with the many temporary holds.

After a dog to figure out the first bit, getting the send and re-figuring out the rest on the send was a surprise. Bottom crux defs feels harder with the snapped off left hold. Stiff 26 imo if you're not tall enough to gun for the jug, though likely much easier in conditions that are actually good.

The sister climb to Hot Sex, and even better due to the lack of a sketchy start! Another beautiful lime that takes you on a pleasant journey yet threatens to spit you off when you least expect it.

Such a sweet line. I feel cheap saying how all these routes are awesome, but they really are. Kneebars. So many kneebars. Oh, and a lifesaver fistjam up high! Had to dig pretty dig for this. First 27 onsight!

Brilliant.

Rad to see I can still climb this. Refigured out the subtleties of the beta and sent 2nd shot.

Didn't think I had it in me today and that I would have to return with better fitness. So I just gave it a go, climbed fast, and didn't try to shake out anywhere, instead just doing mini shakes between moves. Feels like I'm relearning how to route climb.

Great climbing albeit close to Blood Moon.

Thought provoking with a tricky start.

What a journey!!! The slab in particular is a sweet position and beautiful traversing

Sick! Punching through the boulder was a fight ... you need to work it to get anything out of those feet! Had a chat with Kurt beforehands about onsighting. He said that you needed a mixture of discerning calculation, and firm commitment. Great advice, and it came off. One of the best pitches Ive done in the Glasshouse ... although its a shame about the prolific ticking in the upper section.

Skin of my teeth. Cool climb! Love the funky pockets on this wall.

Stoked to be able to close this chapter! Kill Bill's been in the back of my mind for years. Great route, and was surprised to not have to pull too hard

Once again to clean the line. Great day out with Kyle and Dan

Hell yeah! Stoked as. Really rad climb.

I wanted to hop on something hard for me this trip and this was the line! Had two goes on the second last day and then came back on our last day before heading into Melbourne to see if I could send - and I did so but the skin of my teeth haha. Was pumped silly on the crimpy traverse leading to the deadpoint but just kept having mini-shakeouts between each crimp and launched for the deadpoint and latched it just the same as on my working burns. I did feel slight rope drag settling into the move but I had the hold anyway helped so I feel comfortable claiming the send, and then after catching it, Ryan (who was belaying) fell down the slope and I had to hold on fast to stop myself from being pulled from the hold hahaha.

Placed all the trad gear on lead. Hardest send outside of Qld!

All the moves done. Not truly crazy move, but pumpy on the send. Shame about the insane amount of chipping and gluing of rocks onto this route. Superb climbing though the hold manufacturing takes away from the quality.

Send attempt. Fell off on the hold before halfway megajug. So pumpy but may be doable once the beta is dialled.

Tried the dyno first go but didn't have explosiveness with the fatigue. Ended up doing a static way that's the way to go. Practiced getting to the first bolt on TR to dial it in. Bit heady but not as bad as I expected.

I felt wholly in the zone on this route. Quietly in tune with myself, the movement, the environment around us. A sharp focus, but 360 degrees of awareness. Perfect harmony, the entire way until the anchors. I'm grateful for such an experience as the last climb of what had been an incredible trip.

Just the first pitch unfortunately, but it was mega fun! Great punchy crux into stellar arete climbing. So much fun!

Low crux was fun and the top position is class

Managed to put it together. Cracker bouldery route! Beautiful layback sequence, and the undercling sequence is unique. Also - fun little rope swing if you have the rope in at the anchors and jump from the cave!

Mucked up the beta a few times but managed to re-jig it for the send. Stellar line.

Cool! Was in a weirdly engaged-but-calm headspace this time; even though each move didn't feel secure and perfect I kept to the beta and did each move without much extraneous thought. Using imagery in the days between attempts helped heaps with this; Also, warming up on the Cliffboard. Learnt a lot on headgame, face-climbing, and projecting. (For reference as this isn't on theCrag yet: onsighted Time for Chai (26) same day, over an hr haha. Hardest send and onsight today!)

My comment from 2017 denounced the chipping, in 2023 I will edit my statement to say "eh it's KP" and that it's been well chipped A bit squeezed in, but a worthwhile route and cool pulling at the crux. Great slab.

One of KP's best lines.

Day 6? of the Feb Challenge. Unlucky weather and malaligned life schedules mean we're not getting down as much as we'd like! Still heaps of fun though. 63 climbs down now.

Great crux movement! Potentially 23.

What a route! Make sure to clip the maillon on the first bolt (instead of the bolt directly) to avoid snapping your carabiner.

Great to get back on this since the hold broke. Definitely harder than it was, as you now need to launch up to the broken hold more statically instead of a deadpoint. No harder than 23 in my books, and still good!

What a stellar route! That arete section up high is to die for. Fantastic.

Oooooh baby! Sweet exposure once you step out left onto the steep! Love the round-a-bout beta and interesting sequencing. Loved this.

We had time for one more climb, and I wanted to hop on this, though almost retreated to do the 22 instead as it was an easier tick. Decided to pull my finger out, disregard the comfort of the 22 and go for it. Prouder of this decision than the onsight, strangely. Great moves. Hard to read. Slightly committing.

Climbed into this off COC at the ledge. Actually decent climbing but a tad contrived just above the bolt to stay on the moderate climbing. Enjoyable headgame keeping cool getting to the first bolt and then to the top.

These 22s/23s on the left are the best routes here imo. Nice rock, minimal chipping/gluing, great climbing!

Great and tricky to read in spota

Got suuuuuper pumped at the start but fortunately managed to stick it together to reach the jugs.

Sick! Good punchy route.

Fantastic! Few move wonder, but they're fun moves and surprisingly doesn't feel too contrived.

Another classic arete line! I like Gareth's sentiment of this being a total anti-offwidth. On the send it was desperate and slappy! Proud of working and doing this ground-up. Sending cred goes to Dave - I was too scared to hop back on this after sussing it out first - I guess I was scared of the fact that it may take some projecting and was using conditions as an excuse - I was amidst cleaning the gear when he convinced me to give another crack. Thanks again, man. Great day out with Dave, Simmo and Will. Met some cool interstaters too.

Awesome weird, cryptic, slanty climbing!

Runout is engaging without gear. Top through the roof was tricky in the heat! Unique.

Couldn't have done without Glen's beta. The cross-through to the crimp was rad. Good punchy way to cap off a great day. Thanks Glen!

Did after Sam. Going to and clipping the first bolt is a bit sketch. Take care! Good climbing regardless, if not trickier than it first appears

Three attempts. Re-learning the beta for my weaker state. Got to the last crux throw on the third attempt. Bit more power endurance and this'll go. Superb day out! Good weather and good new friends.

Quite good! Top anchors is crazy overgrown ATM, but head right into the shrubbery to discover the anchors. Love the mother of all finger locks rivalling Pig City!

Getting to the first bolt through the mank, veg and wetness is a tad sketch. Stick clip is a good idea. The rest of the route is superb. The top anchors are hiding beneath a matted mess of vines and I found the anchors - whilst in great nick - under a pile of dirt. In need of some garden work and more traffic! 2nd shot. Great face climbing.