Begehungen in Blackheath Area haben Beta

Supposed to be a very good climb, I didn't love it but I also climbed it quite poorly 🤷

Did the crux again a bit quicker, then came off it on the red point but at least committed and hit the hold. Still feels very difficult for 25 but more possible now. Different beta through the intro to the crux also.

Fun and pumpy! Shame it was a bit damp due to some rain and fog. Keen to try again in stickier conditions..

Such a fun climb, excellent jamming!

Did the move (static!), retrieved the draws

Climbing like a slug today

Repeating ol routes i havent logged here.

Fun flowy balancey moves, check out the piton

Can manage to hit the slot on link, rest of it goes easy, got a deep flapper on the second go 😩

Consistent and thoughtful techy climbing. Second lap to clean.

Sport route with a trad feel, didn’t really get interesting till the rings.

Opening the account… at sunset, oops. Memory is hazy but clean until maybe below the side pulls? Took there so I didn’t have to fall and work it in the dark. All moves went first go and very keen to come back to Redpoint!

Repeat, easier than the 17s and unnecessarily run out?

Cleaning

Repeat, draws on for caitlyn, turns out the starts are REAL hard if you’re short

Repeat, cleaning after caitlyn

Repeat, cleaning after caitlyn

Fantastic. Offers such great flow

I usually only log ascents but I'm logging this as a notable experience because I've had plenty of catches before but never a landing. OS attempt, journeying through crux with a runout from the rest (4th bolt). I punted at the top of crux and ended up with my belay at my head and my feet on the ground. Retired for the day after that. Statistically I'm safe for a while, right?

2nd go

I guess third shot if you count muddy foot slip on the literal first move off the log. 🤪 Went up placing the draws but flashpumped out after placing the draw from the pockets and clipping. Worked out beta for the top and came down. Then send go was too pumped to execute top beta so just went much more direct and actually found that easier. It’s a pretty sustained route once you get off the ledge into the orangeness.

Great climb but ruined just a bit for me by the scary-ass groundfall-potential mantle, but maybe I’m just a scaredy cat.

Nice to come back to this after such a long time. Manage to work all the moves and refine the beta, but not in shape for such a bouldery route at the moment. It felt good to stick the first move and work the top crux.

Word of the day "Devo", after dropping it at the anchors.

Epic climb that just keeps on giving. Got all the moves on my first go but I think I'm pretty far from getting the send. Keen to get back on it! Side note, this climb was perfectly dry when all the easy climbs at Shipley were soaking wet 😁.

Interesting climb. I definitely spread em on the way up for those rests. Crux was fun but committing as you go left. Luckily I’m not short cuz the top out sequence looked munted.

Should rename this to wet and wild when it’s raining. The most slippery top out I’ve done in a while.

Techy crux. Super fun, coming back for the tick.

The undercling is mega but the high left foot going into it is so microscopic. Foot popped and fell like 5m on the onsight burn. Super duper fun tho will do again.

Went next burn after putting the draws on. Felt hard first go. But held it together on the send. Onsight grade felt harder than 24.

I was sure I could send two 29 in a day but nope, got close. Nice route but not my favourite of the grade. (Fell just before the last crimp at the crux).

#10

Alzheimers onsight, long time since I’ve done this one but still remember it being solid and pumpy. Yes it was.

Lap 1 / onsight ended when I climbed up and left at the crux. Couldn’t get across. Figured out the love afterwards , bloody hell there is so much chalk?!

Felt like the way I did it can’t be 23; from jug, big left move to sloper, right hand crimp, left hand two finger pocket, roll out and punch to crimp slot. Then can finally breathe after I hit the left side pull before doing the big move up.

Lap 2; all good but still decently pumped at the anchor.

Solo’d the traverse, the amount of rope out and the position of the first straight up bolt and wet shoes instilled a lot of fear into me.

Felt quite desperate but that may have been the weather and conditions (sprayed with water while climbing)

Moves were still fun, classic mountains slab.

So cold today