Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Gebiet | Qualität | Kletterer | Datum | |||
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19 21 |
★★ Long Distance Relationships
![]() | 50m, 20 | Blue Mountains | Durchschnitt | Do 31. Okt 2013 | ||||
2nd ascent with M Baker.
Hmmmm.
Shares the crux and some other moves of Screen Gems (22)
Brackets would be useful.
Mind your ankles.
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19 21 |
★★ Long Distance Relationships
![]() | 50m, 20 | Blue Mountains | ★ Gut | Do 14. Nov 2013 | ||||
Climbed from the ground to the top of the cliff in 1 50m pitch with two ropes and only minor rope management. I actually thought Screen Gems had been Retrobolted and I was following that line. Took a rack of cams and I'm glad I did, though it's still excitingly run-out at times. I think the crux move is probably more 22 than 19, though the rest of the route is about right at 19-20. I got confused with the divergent carrots at the crux and rested to try and figure it out. Not bad. Adventurous!
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21 |
★★ Long Distance Relationships
![]() | 50m, 20 | Blue Mountains | Sa 10. Mär 2018 | |||||
Awful rock on the first pitch
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21 |
★★ Long Distance Relationships
![]() | 50m, 20 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Sehr gut | So 11. Mär 2018 | ||||
coming back for the second pitch, great exposure, but the first is a choss fest.
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21 |
★★ Long Distance Relationships
![]() | 50m, 20 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Klassiker | So 8. Dez 2019 | ||||
22 21 |
★★ Long Distance Relationships
![]() | 50m, 20 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Klassiker | So 5. Jan 2020 | ||||
Yes the 1st pitch is icky and a bit hard but the 2nd pitch is the money. So airy and take just 1 or 2 smallish cams...not a full rack! Typical summer arvo from smoke-filled, baking 28C to 15C, heavy mist and massive windchill. As noted this does the Screen Gems crux and then some. Multi-ing is a good option and yes you can walk off.
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21 |
★★ Long Distance Relationships
![]() | 50m, 20 | Blue Mountains | ★ Gut | Do 29. Apr 2021 | ||||
Cheeky after work lap checking out my new top rope solo set up. Interesting climbing over some mossy holds. A bit of loose rock near the mantle move kept it spicy. Don’t know if I would hurry back to lead it.
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21 |
★★ Long Distance Relationships
![]() | 50m, 20 | Blue Mountains | Di 6. Feb 2024 | |||||
21 |
FA
★★ Koyaanisqatsi
![]() | 30m, 17 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Klassiker | Di 29. Okt 2019 | ||||
Brilliant addition to the world of Bluies aretes, and I didn't even try the money pitch. Very cool to have been a part of this.
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26 |
FA
★★ Koyaanisqatsi
![]() | 70m, 17 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 29. Okt 2019 | ||||
Led all pitches, done as a 15m pitch (P1) and a 55m pitch (P2-P4) belayed from the ground. Old school equipping and commitment, and as psychologically demanding as it is physically demanding on the crux pitch. Rope management is crucial to keeping this safe. P2-P4 (as a giant pitch) probably warrant "classic" status for the unrelenting arête-y nature of the climbing. P2 is crazy overhanging in the first half!
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26 |
★★ Koyaanisqatsi
![]() | 70m, 17 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 27. Feb 2021 | ||||
Repeat attempt (not clean today). Pitches 2 & 3 only (as a giant pitch).
Sure, this is obscure, but P2 is radical bold-ish gritstone-style arete climbing. Better than I remember, and also quite a bit harder. |
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25 |
★★ It Came from Outer Space
![]() | 70m, 15 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Sehr gut | So 20. Nov 2016 | ||||
Would be a Classic with a rebolt, and without the utterly hellish mantle on P1. With Hugh. Lead all pitches. P1 (Dog) - Fell off at the mantle (15m up), then various falls working out the other nails moves. Quite a bit of gear to supplement the 8 bolts on this pitch (I brought all the wrong gear, so got to place "bad gear" instead). P2 (Dog) - A single fall at another very improbable mantle at the 3rd bolt, but otherwise clean. P3 - Onsight. P1 has a very "gritstone" trad start at about gr22 up to the V5 mantle, which I could do all the "sections" of, but have no chance in hell of linking into the rest of the pitch. After that its a series of extremely powerful (but rad) face moves, then tenuous and desperate (and scary!) moves up the arete to the fully-hanging belay. P2 - Has a steep start, a nutty V3 mantle (think "Dynamics of Change" on the Grit), then tenuous (and run-out) moves up the arete. P3 - A slabby exit pitch. Nothing special.
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25 |
★★ It Came from Outer Space
![]() | 70m, 15 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Sehr gut | So 29. Sep 2019 | ||||
Yep, that mantle is still nails. V5ish? Had no trouble on the rest of this route this time (probably hard 25 without the mantle) and its a bloody awesome line to climb as a giant push from the ground, with great run-out arête climbing... Just that damned mantle to contend with... ugh.
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25 |
★★ It Came from Outer Space
![]() | 70m, 15 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 23. Mai 2020 | ||||
21 |
★ Puberty Blues (Pubity Blues)
![]() | 30m, 7 | Blue Mountains | Di 13. Apr 2010 | |||||
21 |
★ Pubity Blues
![]() | 30m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ★ Gut | Fr 30. Dez 2005 | ||||
Solid - Nice & Shady on a hot afternoon
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21 |
★ Puberty Blues
![]() | 30m, 7 | Blue Mountains | Durchschnitt | Mi 20. Mai 2020 | ||||
19 |
★ White Light
![]() | 45m | Blue Mountains | ★ Gut | Di 13. Apr 2010 | ||||
one fantastic jam
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19 |
★ White Light
![]() | 45m | Blue Mountains | Di 13. Apr 2010 | |||||
15 15 R |
Atilla
![]() | 86m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Sehr gut | Fr 2. Jan 2009 | ||||
Not worth the 4 stars in guide but a fun trad climb. Needs some gardening / more climbers. Wonder why the guide gives it 4 stars but no topo, which hardly encourages climbers to go there!
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15 15 R |
Atilla
![]() | 86m | Blue Mountains | Durchschnitt | Di 13. Apr 2010 | ||||
15 15 R |
Atilla
![]() | 86m | Blue Mountains | Di 13. Apr 2010 | |||||
22 |
★★ Screen Gems
![]() | 50m | Blue Mountains | So 1. Feb 2004 | |||||
15 15 R |
Atilla
![]() | 86m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 5. Jan 2008 | ||||
very exciting second pitch... moth plague in fourth pitch chimney
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15 15 R |
Atilla
![]() | 86m | Blue Mountains | Schrott | Mi 1. Nov 2006 | ||||
Avoid at all costs. Don't know what we were thinking. With Mike and Paul.
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15 15 R |
Atilla
![]() | 86m | Blue Mountains | Di 13. Apr 2010 | |||||
15 15 R |
Atilla
![]() | 86m | Blue Mountains | ★ Gut | Sa 7. Jan 2006 | ||||
Forgot about this one...
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15 |
Atilla
![]() | 86m | Blue Mountains | Vergiss es | So 28. Nov 2004 | ||||
15 15 R |
Atilla
![]() | 86m | Blue Mountains | So 1. Feb 2004 | |||||
15 15 R |
Atilla
![]() | 86m | Blue Mountains | ★ Gut | So 11. Jan 2004 | ||||
Ai trad lead in 3 pitches. First and last two pitches very cruisy. Great gear and comfy placement stances. Fun chimney at end.
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15 15 R |
Atilla
![]() | 86m | Blue Mountains | 2001 | |||||
15 |
Atilla
![]() | 86m | Blue Mountains | ★ Gut | Sa 29. Okt 2005 | ||||
Very Interesting. Watch for loose stuff
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15 |
Atilla
![]() | 86m | Blue Mountains | Vergiss es | Sa 29. Nov 2003 | ||||
15 15 R |
Atilla
![]() | 86m | Blue Mountains | Di 13. Apr 2010 | |||||
15 15 R |
Atilla
![]() | 86m | Blue Mountains | Do 1. Apr 2004 | |||||
15 15 R |
Atilla
![]() | 86m | Blue Mountains | Di 13. Apr 2010 | |||||
15 15 R |
Atilla
![]() | 86m | Blue Mountains | Di 13. Apr 2010 | |||||
15 15 R |
Atilla
![]() | 86m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 21. Feb 2004 | ||||
nice protected chimney. toby p1, p3, me p2.
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19 |
★ White Light
![]() | 45m | Blue Mountains | Di 13. Apr 2010 | |||||
15 15 R |
Atilla
![]() | 86m | Blue Mountains | Durchschnitt | So 28. Apr 2013 | ||||
15 15 R |
Atilla
![]() | 86m | Blue Mountains | Durchschnitt | Sa 28. Feb 2015 | ||||
4 stars in a 15 stars system maybe! Fun in it's own way. Bad rock, bad gear, good times.
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15 15 R |
Atilla
![]() | 86m | Blue Mountains | Durchschnitt | Sa 14. Feb 2015 | ||||
One star for the funky chimney at the end. The rest was a bit contrived with questionable rock before the ramp.
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19 |
★ White Light
![]() | 45m | Blue Mountains | ★ Gut | Mo 23. Jan 2017 | ||||
Truly became one with the vegetation. Tricky crux pitch 2
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19 |
★ White Light
![]() | 45m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Sehr gut | Mo 23. Jan 2017 | ||||
Done in three pitches - a vegitated grovel, a great thrutch, and a solo. I thought it was worth doing, an easy access tradventure with a great 2nd pitch. We took a rack of 0.5-4 with doubles of 0.75-3 and some longish slings for the tree belays.
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15 15 R |
Atilla
![]() | 86m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Sehr gut | Mi 24. Jan 2018 | ||||
I (surprise surprise) LOVED this! Let's be real: there are definitely not 4 pitches (or anywhere close to 86m) of climbing here, but 2 of the 2.5-3 pitches that do exist are fantastic despite some shonky rock (especially on that first pitch - however, you can mostly avoid it). There was adequate gear despite forgetting both our wires AND hexes (DO bring a #5 camalot though, it's pretty handy). Popping up in the middle of a cliff at the end had a 10/10 novelty factor.
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19 |
★ White Light
![]() | 45m | Blue Mountains | Do 9. Aug 2018 | |||||
26 |
David Hicks Memorial Route
![]() | 20m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Sehr gut | So 26. Jan 2020 | ||||
TRS x 3. Short, but quite intense. Felt desperate in today's heat/humidity. Lots of very thin moves with surprising variety, and an interesting gristone finale.
The bolts are indeed glued-in thread with hangers and nuts. But this is a BYO spanner route, as the nuts undo themselves if a stiff breeze hits them. An absolutely bizarre effort of bolting. |
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17 |
Pushover Pinnacle
![]() | 45m | Blue Mountains | Durchschnitt | Sa 30. Nov 2019 | ||||
Boulder start is good rest is fragile
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10 |
★ Nantucket Sleigh Ride
![]() | 48m | Blue Mountains | So 25. Sep 2022 | |||||
Yeah the trad
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10 |
★ Nantucket Sleigh Ride
![]() | 48m | Blue Mountains | ★ Gut | Sa 11. Mär 2023 | ||||
Sport | |||||||||
27 |
★ Big Red
![]() | 60m, 23 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Sehr gut | Do 11. Aug 2016 | ||||
Top Rope Solo Investigatory lap. P2 clean. P1 clean to where the climb turns the first bulge (15m? - 22 to here), then lots of rests piecing it together and finding holds. I don't know what to say about this climb, what stars to award it, what quality to ascribe to it. The climbing is rad, and aesthetically it's quite beautiful... But it is blatantly (and rather hideously) chipped, the money-pitch features 3 Shale bands to negotiate, and the rock is the very sharp crystal-y large-grain sandstone. Regardless, I enjoyed the climbing, which has a LOT to it, with quite a few hard sequences, but no "shut-down" crux. (Having said that, the moves to gain the anchors at the end of P1 could be a killer on link). I'll be back... I'm just not sure whether or not to recommend it to others.
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27 |
★ Big Red
![]() | 60m, 23 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Sehr gut | Mi 17. Aug 2016 | ||||
3 more laps. Still a lot more to piece together this 50m monster, but some good linkage and some nice refinement. I find the rock on the lower section of this incredibly sharp and unpleasant.
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27 |
★ Big Red
![]() | 60m, 23 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Sehr gut | Mo 29. Aug 2016 | ||||
3 more laps (this time with 6kgs of weight for training). Awesome linkage on most of the route despite the training weight. I've still never managed to link the final desperate sequence to the anchors into the previous crux immediately below it (but I can do it with a short rest)... it's just too damn gnarly!
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27 |
★ Big Red
![]() | 60m, 23 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Sehr gut | Mi 31. Aug 2016 | ||||
2 more laps. 7kgs now. My best linkage yet, despite the weight. ALMOST linked the last move of the route into the moves below it (but not quite)... hopefully it will be okay when I strip the weight for the send (though I will have 50m of rope in the system).
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27 |
★ Big Red
![]() | 60m, 23 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Sehr gut | Mo 5. Sep 2016 | ||||
2 more shots. 5kgs weight training today. Re-chalking the holds and drying to dry the fishbowl (full-of-water) pockets after the recent deluge. Refining all the microbeta... On the 2nd lap I managed to link everything in one big push EXCEPT the last part of the last move... D'oh! Draws on for a lead attempt on Wednesday.
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27 |
★ Big Red
![]() | 60m, 23 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Sehr gut | Mi 7. Sep 2016 | ||||
Psyched! 2nd Redpoint attempt (13th lap total, including my various Top Rope Solo laps). Climbed both pitches as a monster 60m pitch belayed from the ground. Took a huge whip off the mid-height pocket-crux on my first shot (after skipping a clip, and falling at the next bolt). Pulled straight back on and linked to the top. The 2nd lap was a battle, but I felt up to the task the whole way. So much varied climbing (even if it is separated by 3 sneaky no-hands rests), with the hardest moves in the last 5m.
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27 |
★ Big Red
![]() | 60m, 23 | Blue Mountains | Vergiss es | Mo 20. Mai 2019 | ||||
This climb hasn't been manufactured to my body length... seriously I was shocked by the number of drilled holds and the way they have been made, I mean a gym hold looks more natural.
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27 |
★ Big Red
![]() | 60m, 23 | Blue Mountains | So 27. Nov 2022 | |||||
Great route if you don't mind the fact it has some manufactured holds. Some sections felt pretty much impossible as a shorter climber so keep that in mind.
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23 |
★★ Bubbling Crude
![]() | 40m, 15 | Blue Mountains | Di 13. Apr 2010 | |||||
23 |
★★ Bubbling Crude
![]() | 40m, 15 | Blue Mountains | Do 29. Aug 2013 | |||||
23 |
★★ Bubbling Crude
![]() | 40m, 15 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Sehr gut | Do 10. Nov 2016 | ||||
Tricky face climbing - plenty of tapping around to find minging holds. The bolts are definitely looking worse for wear, with more than a little rust. And the belay leaves a lot to be desired. But it's in the shade in the late arvo!
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23 |
★★ Bubbling Crude
![]() | 40m, 15 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Sehr gut | Do 10. Nov 2016 | ||||
Didn't place draws on the rap-in to go for the more exciting Onsight. A few sections of very thin thiness separated by good rests. Some funky moves, but the bolts are quite hideous (and the belay is in a really weird place). Didn't feel too hard for the grade. Afternoon shade.
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23 |
★★ Bubbling Crude
![]() | 40m, 15 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 25. Feb 2023 | ||||
Low admin, rap in climb out. Fun climbing up a nice orange wall, a little bit punpy too.
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16 |
★ Triple Smoked Bacon
![]() | 30m, 15 | Blue Mountains | Mi 3. Jan 2024 | |||||
17 ~17 |
★ Triple Smoked Bacon
![]() | 30m, 15 | Blue Mountains | Mi 24. Jan 2024 | |||||
23 |
★★ Bubbling Crude
![]() | 40m, 15 | Blue Mountains | Di 6. Feb 2024 | |||||
16 |
★ Triple Smoked Bacon
![]() | 30m, 15 | Blue Mountains | ★ Gut | Mi 3. Apr 2024 | ||||
16 ~15 |
★ Triple Smoked Bacon
![]() | 30m, 15 | Blue Mountains | So 28. Apr 2024 | |||||
15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | Di 29. Dez 2015 | |||||
15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | Di 29. Dez 2015 | |||||
15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | ★ Gut | Mi 13. Jan 2016 | ||||
Nice with heaps of bolts..
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15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | Mo 25. Jan 2016 | |||||
15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | Mo 25. Jan 2016 | |||||
15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | Durchschnitt | Mo 25. Jan 2016 | ||||
A little awkward at times, or maybe I'm just awkward.
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15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | ★ Gut | Do 11. Feb 2016 | ||||
15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | ★ Gut | So 24. Apr 2016 | ||||
Long and good for the bumblies.
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15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | Di 26. Apr 2016 | |||||
15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | Durchschnitt | Mo 16. Mai 2016 | ||||
15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | Di 21. Jun 2016 | |||||
15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | Schrott | Di 20. Sep 2016 | ||||
15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | ★ Gut | So 8. Jan 2017 | ||||
I thought it hard for the grade, a little reachy in places. Varied and some interesting moves.
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15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | Durchschnitt | Sa 21. Jan 2017 | ||||
VERY well bolted!
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15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | Mo 20. Feb 2017 | |||||
15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | Mi 8. Mär 2017 | |||||
15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | Durchschnitt | Mo 13. Mär 2017 | ||||
Ok warm up.
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15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | So 9. Apr 2017 | |||||
15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | So 9. Apr 2017 | |||||
15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | So 30. Apr 2017 | |||||
15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | Durchschnitt | So 25. Jun 2017 | ||||
tricky middle with really cold fingers. screaming burfies at the top half... so pleasant..NOT
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15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | So 2. Jul 2017 | |||||
15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | Durchschnitt | So 10. Sep 2017 | ||||
15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | Durchschnitt | So 10. Sep 2017 | ||||
15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | Durchschnitt | So 10. Sep 2017 | ||||
15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | Mo 11. Sep 2017 | |||||
warmup, great climb for teach people to lead except for the amount of bolts.
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15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | So 24. Sep 2017 | |||||
Stemming start leading into the top headwall. Not a bad climb at the grade.
One trickier bit getting off the last ledge onto the headwall. Cruisy day putting draws on for Miki & Zali |
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15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | So 24. Sep 2017 | |||||
15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | ★ Gut | Sa 30. Sep 2017 | ||||
15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | ★ Gut | Sa 30. Sep 2017 | ||||
Quite a good climb and worthy of its star. Well placed protection and excellent holds throughout the majority of the climb. It's evidently got potential to go higher but the iron stone ledges above would cause concern for rope wear.
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15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | Sa 21. Okt 2017 | |||||
15 |
★ Long John Silver
![]() | 20m, 14 | Blue Mountains | Di 28. Nov 2017 |