Begehungen in The Devil's Kitchenette

Tommy's beta of double knee bar didn't work so great for me, I keep them out with left toe flag on the roof and dead point the right hand.

onsight of first half, over mud with no pad, up to the start of Kitchen Bitch

Quick play with Ben. Feels hard and committing.

Big cool moves. For some reason it seems natural for me to double toe hook on the lip rather than just find the juice and throw my left heel properly on.

best rest in the middle of a boulder you'll ever get. Move to the lip is wicked! exciting mantle too

repeat

Only had a couple cracks, can move through the roof static, feel like I could get a technical right toe jam in the first roof hold and then match on the lip static, but not today.

Had a play on this one too, more rad moves for me to work on yiiiiiew

Only had a couple goes before the storm rolled in. Got a little more progress along the lip

If my mantling was up to scratch this would have gone first go...instead I floundered about on the lip and pumped out. Got it next go. Loved the leap of faith out to the lip and the wormy rest after the start.

Best attempt so far, used different right hand which gave me another few cm's ape and can just hit the lip

Tommy Krauss showed me some beta which made this really easy, flash pumped on the mantle and got it second try. Stoked!

Had done before, a couple of years ago. First time trying for this year.

pretty awesome,...first ascent in about three years since it is finally above the water table again,...had to use tarps to protect the pads from the muddy ground, other than that, absolutely primo! wicked mantle at the top!

Cool little problem, has bomber foot locks. I found the right heel a bit sketchy so just went direct.

repeat

Whooo first V5 sent! Celebratory high fives for everyone!!

Fun climbs deserve two goes

Did this going way left which seems easier, maybe V4, then another lap with dyno to lip, then few more laps getting it dialed and perfectly static with right heel hook in the roof jug.

Have wanted to try this for ages and it didn't disappoint. Can do all the moves, now time to connect the dots. Great problem, the moves from the heel hook up in the roof out to the lip are rad!

Another lap, completely dialed

Another gem to go back for. Got to the last move but was way too thrashed to do any better. Definitely a must do next time

Great feet jamming and a cool swinging dyno finish.

Did a harder direct variant which avoids the big nest jug. Maybe this is the proper way?