Routen in Australien für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Do esoteric panties/evil agenda to the crux of esoteric agenda and then break left for a very hard 3 extra bolts of climbing until you reach sideways rains anchor.

The future.

Rumour is it's pretty hard. Direct start to Mono No Aware. The first 35 to be sent by an Australian (albeit noting the question of how to grade Wheel of Life). Tom

Australia's first 35 (albeit noting the question of how to grade Wheel of Life). An open project for over a decade. Alex took about 20 shots to send it, not long after he'd onsighted 9a at Siurana.

Ascents

• Alex Megos - 18 August 2013
• Wiz Fineron - 14 May 2019
• Ben Cossey

Start slightly left of Knifey Spooney. The fainted crack feature on that compact wall. This line link into the crux of Spoonman. Probably the hardest climb in Queensland at the moment.

No sure if it goes. Start The Seam and stay in the it all the way. Two more bolts allow to link directly to the upper wall of Spoonman.

Start 8m right of Beta Vinyl, 3m L of Tiger Snatch. Heads straight up, passing through the left end of the low horizontal break of Velvet project / Tiger Snatch. Then heads straight up to Sitting Bull's final break. Finish as for Sue's Last Ride.

"Dangle pigs". Australia's 2nd 35. Formerly a Lee Cossey project, generously gifted to Alex to keep him occupied. Starts just shy of the wall splitting arete 15m right of Ristretto. Tends rightward to breach the main roof close to its right hand end, and up wall above.

The insane, thin, finger crack that splits the whole cave in half, straight down the middle. Sit start the start of the crack at the very back of the cave and figure out the insanity. Very possible

On the downhill side of the boulder, from far right traverse leftwards using the obvious sloping crack accross the overhanging wall and topout frighteningly at the tallest point of the face. Mega

Start with left hand on the undercling and right hand on the pebbly hold with a mono. Move up to the two crimps, then move up to the first break. Go straight up from here to the next break. It was Australia's first V11.

Sit-starts at bottom of dihedral and climbs to top of dihedral finish at juggy 2 finger and cod-mouth jug over lip - easier since a new foot sequence was discovered, compared to original crux-pounce that Tom did Sam Healy

This was previously ‘Kiss My Witness’ V6. Holds broke and alas was a project for some time before a “post break repeat” grade confirmation.

Start with both hands on low incut rail. Follow obvious break straight up and finish as for ‘Silent Witness'

Details unknown.

Start as for Jug to Jug to the LH slot but then head left across Turbo Guns via two difficult cross overs to finish left of that problem.

Grubby paw direct but exiting via blue and green directly over. Just gave it a twelve based on grubby paw direct, most likely everything here could drop by one.

Climb the obvious fridge feature. deep from in the cave. Slap side to side and try and work out the wacky puzzle at the lip. Don't get swallowed up by the giant monster!!

Possibly lives up to the name. It would appear that holds have broken since Brad S and Nick W first documented this boulder. A powerful, aggressive crimp boulder that needs a repeat to reconfirm the grade. Would appear at least V11.

Sit Start on good two finger side pull and crimp. Hard first moves left into small crimps, then finish as for ‘Kiss My Witness’.

Brad S and Nick W (Pictures on StrandedClimbers.Blogspot.com.au)

Squat start compressed, up on slopers compressing rounded arete to top out high slab.

Described in Rock Magazine #48 as incredibly thin and powerful.

Sit start LH undercling in the middle of the hueco and RH sidepull. Do a few hard moves up and left to gain the ledge and topout. Bloody Classic. Cheers JH for the vision.

Stand start, up on slopey pockets to top. Very friction dependent.

Elijah Mercado Sam Healy

Stand start on two tiny crimps, move up and right to the big shield and then top out the proud arete

Shared start with Obsession.

Keep traversing left on some small edges until you reach the flake, joining the crux of Moments Of The Past.

Liam Healy

Start with There Will Be Blood, but instead of topping out use the edges on problem #39 to come across to The Katana and finish on The Katana. A long endurance test piece that will certainly be a hard link up. Adds in a hard crux of coming down of the starting edge of #39 to the start of The Katana. Could probably shake out stemming between the Katana and Blood boulders... Contrived...

Reverse Rodeo Clown into Yo Mama (Anger Management exiting Persistence) Some decent power endurance! Easy V14? 8c/+ Route

R. Hofmann

Starts as a sit/crouch start on the chalk at the far right of the crumbly cave and then up the “v3” and into the roof to finish on the last big jug (same finish as leviticus)

Sit start as for Anger Management, following the right side of holds leading to a big move to a crimpy blob/shield like feature and then a good jug rest. Connect back into "Anger Management" following its sloppy crack line, turning about a meter before the crack opening. Then head directly out towards the front of the cave via a large jug and some sharp underlings. Top out as for "Anger Management".

Byron Glover

R. Hofmann

Heads straight up just right of the start of Sultans of Swing. Pending details.

Sit start in the cave on the sidepulls (left flatty, right crimp). Big moves up to positive left pinch then right crimp with poor feet. Awesome feature.

A huge, technical dyno starting from a sit-start, then up to the big sloper and higher crimp - then the sharp lip jug. The hardest dyno in Australia?

Reverse Rodeo Clown to the start of Anger Management, get a decent rest and the finish as per Anger Management. Fun Power Endurance. Could be V12. 8b+/c Route

R. Hofmann

Start as for "Persistence", following the right side of holds approximately 2 meters. Just after the deep two finger pocket climb towards the big Hueco on the lower right side of the cave. Climb the far right side of the cave to finish on the start rail of "Major Lightweight".

Byron Glover R. Hofmann

Sit start at the bottom of the obvious crack in the roof and up. The holds run out and force a massive throw to good holds near the lip of the roof.

Upper Cave.

Links 'Fog' into 'Dead Heat'.

Start matched on the sidepull, make a hard move right into the start position of Bowels. Was thought to be the actual start of Bowels.

Stand start on the undercling. Move up using the sidepulls and a lack of footholds to reach the victory jug and to top out.

Elijah Mercado

One of the hardest problem's in Queensland. This is the amazing line in the middle of the wall.

8 move cliff, no top out.

[eliminate] The stunning line at the entrance of the cave. Start at middle of Orient Express and blast straight out of cave through blank section. eliminates the big sidepull on the right side.

Start same as Project Slap but after establishing the slopey crimp, traverse out left on tiny crimps and knobs to the arete and mantle to topout.

Links X-Treme Cool into The big flake link

The imposing face across to the right from PP. Stand start with high crimp. Up to the two bad pinches, then punch up to the lip. Finish on good holds out left.

Start & finish as for Grubby Paw but direct to hueco as for The Smiling Assassin.

Chris Beers Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

Alec Landstra (post breakage)

Classic lowball. Sit start with good slot right down low as for 'Heuco at Home'. Climb up, and trend left (avoid good jugs of 'Heuco at Home'). Establish on small right-hand crimp, followed by a big drop knee move to reach the far-away left hand crimp. Hold the tension and try top out!

Robin Y

Sit start on the scoop and move left using some crimps to gain the big rail before doing a huge span out left to join Odin's Raven.

Link 'Easy Does It' into 'Sleepy Hollow'

The creme de la creme. Sit start on crimp, punch up then across right and up a series of shallow pockets via a rad cross move, finishing on jug under the bolt.

Paul's Present finishing up Exit Wounds.

mattias braach-maksvytis

Into the bush about 100m left of the Skittle boulder.

Start on the starting holds of Pearl Necklace but head left via shallow underclings and pockets to finish up Bumpy Boys.

Sit start on the jug under the rooflet and follow the arete all the way to the top of the block.

Might need a brush as it's getting mossy again.

Takes an extreme line to the right of Cave Man, climbing into that problem's finish.

Start down in the little cave and power your way up through the crimps and pockets, heading left and linking into Little Spoon. (Open project with proposed grade of v11/12)

Contact finishing up Savage

A very good piece of climbing. Apparently the trick is to control the swing.

Chris Webb Parsons

Travis B

Sit start compressing the boulder. Climb a ~V8/9 compression sequence into the V11 stand start. Awesome, sustained climbing.

Adds a move into the 'crouch' starting with the right hand dish and slightly higher left hand originally opened by legendary Andy Lampard. https://vimeo.com/264036730

Low sit start, follow crack feature to top out

Start matched on the 2 crimpy underclings, traverse right and do a big dynamic move to a good edge on the break. Finish matched on the big horn just behind the ledge.

A big link up. Sit-start as for 'A horse is a horse', then traverse right all the way into the start of 'The Nevin Rule'. Finish up this problem. Route grade of 32.

Starting a few moves further right on some horrible small sidepulls is a project in the V12 range.

SDS on good hold, long move up to gain the crimp-plate. Climb the left hand side of the boulder with awesome stretched out compression moves. Stick left for the send. Easier the taller you are.

Andy

Robin Y

An awesome testpiece from Saxon. Has seen very few repeats. Very small and painful holds and a tricky tricky exit.

Tom O'Halloran

Connor Lucas

Low start with obvious low flakes (low left hand sidepull and right hand under the roof) and left toe. Hard starting move up to the diagonal flake and then up to jug rail to topout on the slab. The pedestal supporting the rock is out. Estimated 13/14? Has been done from one move in (starting with right hand gaston on the flake) clocks in at ~V10/11 Has also been done in two overlapping halves from the start (T Farrell 2023)

Start one hand under the roof on the decent undercut and one hand with the hold on the lip, traverse left and finish up "Joe, Joe Dynamo". Originally started under the roof with 2 undercuts which is now broken, starting one move higher brings the grade down from the original v14.

Really great and unique overhanging roof coffin. Sit-starts low on right hand pinch and left positive side-pull. Thug up left and and start slapping. Finishes on obvious big juggy break above the coffin.

The very dangerous problem just right of 'Butthole Surfer' and climbing out to the obvious pockets on the overhanging face above and bad landing (the drop off the terrace).

Sit start with two opposing vertical holds, head left via big move and finish via arete

Sit start to Daoism.

Tom Farrell

This problem goes out the steepest part of the roof. Start matched low on the horizontal rail then out to the LH gaston and then up to the RH 3 finger pocket. A big throw to the LH undercling pocket then up some good holds to a powerful finish at the big hueco.

Slot currently broken. Much much harder now.

Sit start in the back of the cave and squeeze your way out the middle bulge with the slopey pinches to a cut loose at the lip. All time South West roof climbing in an outrageous position!

Grade's a guess. Send it and tell us.

Crouch start on right hand incut crimp and left hand terrible sidepull. Hard move into start of Matty's Dyno to finish as for that problem

Old Klem Loskot project which was expected to be the hardest dyno in Australia; the FA went to Nalle Hukkataival and its status as hardest dyno may have been subsumed by a few hard problems Nalle put up in Buandik, 'Massive Dynamic' and 'Pigeon Superstition' at the Citadel.

Stand start on bad angled edges below the start for Sideshow and Main Event. Head right via gastons and sidepulls to gain gain the lip and finish as for Sideshow

Sit start on small edge at back of cave. Head up and right to dream block before climbing a few more easier moves to finish below lip of cave.

Sit start to Madball - FA Klem Loskot 1999. Originally graded 8a+/V12 but later upgraded to 8b/v13 by Klem. Lots of sequences now exist.

Sit start with left hand jug and right hand low side pull. Hard burly compression sequence into the stand.

https://www.instagram.com/p/ByUBgfAjWjH/

https://youtu.be/4K0QTDkKRSI

Sit start on hueco.

roof, no top out

Takes the right-trending line via the odd pocket just left of 'Epsilon Crack'.

Hard technical climbing in a steep open corner

Start on the double gastons a couple of tricky moves and a desperate swing will get you established onto The Never Ending Story, finish as for this.

Still a proj?

Sit start left arete as for 'Smooth Jazz, sit start', up to the start jug of Mr Bump, then link right to V-Juice(Stand) holds and finish as for 'Finger Hooks'.

Surprising and technical beta, Powerful and hard, and has been linked in two overlapping segments. Power endurance beast

Link 'Mushi Brain' into the last two moves of 'Abacus'

R. Hofmann

Stand start from left hand crimp and low right hand undercling, up prow to insecure top out.

Originally put up as 'Ummagumma' (also at V13) starting in the 3-finger pocket - Klem added the first (hard) move a week later. Previously V14 until Nicole repeated it in a single day.

Sit start on the big undercling below the start of crooks and castles and heads straight up to finish on good block 1 m from top of cave.