Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Gebiet | Qualität | Kletterer | Datum | |||
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21 |
★★★ Auto Da Fe
![]()
1
21
45m
2
| 45m | Arapiles | Mo 15. Nov 2021 | |||||
Last minute push on the line that has some sort of scary reputation to me. Crazy awesome first pitch and foot slipped while hanging on the victory jug so no fall, but scared myself with my limited mental energy on the second pitch bulge crux. For next time
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14 |
★★ Vandal
![]() | 50m | Arapiles | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 31. Mär 2018 | ||||
The first two pitches were great and the third one looked like fun but we decided to bail ( which is easy from the top of the second pitch ) because the first moves were unprotected, committing and a fall would lead to hitting the platform. All in all not a great recipe, but we'll be back after building up more confidence at the grade.
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13 |
★ RedTide
![]() | 390m, 36 | Briggs Bluff Area | Durchschnitt | Do 15. Nov 2018 | ||||
Don't know if I'd use the word pleasant. Very adventurous climb, also very serious and would add an R rating. Make sure you're very comfortable at the grade. Potential for very big swings between solid pieces of pro and you're often on sandy fragile rock that readily crumbles under hand and foot. The belays that rely on cams are just barely enough to keep you sane.
All that being said, you get some great positions and the bolting seems solid enough. We bailed out after just before the 7th pitch by following up some FHs, pitty because the next few pitches had DBBs.
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13 |
★★ Salamander
![]() | 50m | Arapiles | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 2. Mai 2023 | ||||
bailed after we got absolutely pissed on (thanks google weather). the 2nd pitch was very fun though.
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10 |
★★★ Lamplighter
![]() | 30m | Arapiles | Mo 23. Okt 2023 | |||||
Accidentally set up at the belay for Judgement Day and unwittingly sent John van Osta off on the second pitch of that (19). Obviously, wasn't enough of a challenge so took himself off up The Second Coming (22) and landed at its first (thankfully) bolted anchor. Bit more than we bargained for. Beat a hasty retreat. We'll be back, Lamplighter!
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12 |
★★ Watchtower Chimney
![]()
1
12
45
2
8
17
3
12
31
4
8
18
| 110m, 1 | Arapiles | So 17. Dez 2023 | |||||
Had to bail from pitch 3. Leader knocked large rock down Chimney and I got injured dodging.
Please be careful when topping out pitch 3, many large rocks near the edge. |
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10 |
★★★ Eskimo Nell
![]() | 90m | Arapiles | ★★★ Klassiker | So 15. Nov 2020 | ||||
Enjoyable climbing, however unfortunately had to bail at the very convenient anchors at the end of cave crawl due to nature knocking on the door. Thanks to Blake for carrying all the gear back to camp
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10 |
★★★ Eskimo Nell
![]() | 90m | Arapiles | So 15. Nov 2020 | |||||
The psych was high but the bowels said no
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10 |
★★ D Major (D Major Linkup Piccolo)
![]() | 50m | Arapiles | So 4. Apr 2021 | |||||
Bailed due to conditions into the final pitch of Piccollo
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3 |
★★★ Tiptoe Ridge P1
![]() | 43m | Arapiles | Fr 1. Dez 2023 | |||||
24 |
★★★ Ozymandias (free version)
![]()
4
24
35m
5
22
30m
6
22
35m
7
19
15m
8
14
20m
9
10
25m
| 160m | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | So 25. Feb 2024 | ||||
Pitches 4-9. One fall on the corner pitch. Very very stoked. Beautiful, fun, interesting climbing
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23 |
★★★ Missing
![]()
1
22
Vorstieg durch
Matt
2
23
Vorstieg durch
Matt
3
22
Vorstieg durch
Chris
| 75m, 2 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | So 7. Dez 2014 | ||||
Great line! Features pop up and disappear perfectly for a sustained yet varied climb. One rest on P2 not realising i was meant to keep traversing left, P3 was very easy at the grade.
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20 |
★★★ Five Fingered Mary
![]()
4
20
15m
| 110m | Arapiles | ★★ Sehr gut | Mi 25. Nov 2020 | ||||
First three pitches are fine.
But the final 20 roof is hard as. Offwidth, deep, hard to place gear and getting stuck half way.
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19 |
★★★ Judgement Day
![]() | 70m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | So 25. Mär 2018 | ||||
Epic
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19 |
★★ The Apology
![]()
1
18
2
19
| 50m | South-Eastern Grampians | So 6. Mai 2018 | |||||
18 |
★★ Omaha Beach
![]() | 80m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 24. Sep 2022 | ||||
Hard slab start on the first pitch - gets better after 4 moves. Exciting traverse on the start of the second pitch on great hand holds and not so great footholds.
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18 |
★★★ The Initiation
![]() | 90m, 1 | Mount Buffalo | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Mo 12. Jun 2023 | ||||
17 |
★★★ Oceanoid
![]()
1
17
45m
2
17
30m
| 75m | Arapiles | Sa 11. Sep 2021 | |||||
16 |
★★★ Watchtower Crack
![]() | 95m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Sa 9. Jan 2021 | ||||
16 |
★★★ Brolga
![]()
1
15
30m
2
16
45m
3
12
40m
| 120m | Arapiles | ★ Gut | Sa 22. Mai 2021 | ||||
Led the first pitch up to where it gets hard and you have to leave the gear, such as it is (tiny), behind, noped right out of there and let Andreas lead it. I think if you trust that kind of gear (and slab moves) it would be fun.
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16 ~17 |
★★★ Watchtower Crack
![]() | 95m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Do 29. Sep 2022 | ||||
Incredible climb, had me grunting, cheering and swearing up pitch 4! David got the #6 cam well and truly stuck in a fantastic panic-placement on Pitch 3 and it walked away with some fresh scars from the nut tool
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15 schwer |
★★ Toccata
![]() | 50m | Arapiles | ★★ Sehr gut | Do 4. Apr 2024 | ||||
Tricky first pitch for sure. Second pitch also delivers.
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15 |
★★ Toccata
![]() | 50m | Arapiles | Mi 3. Apr 2024 | |||||
14 |
★★ D Minor
![]()
1
10
25m
2
14
10m
| 35m | Arapiles | Mo 10. Apr 2023 | |||||
13 |
★★ Dunes Direct
![]()
1
13
30m
Needed to rest to get a piece of stuck gear out
2
11
25m
3
10
22m
4
12
23m
| 100m | Arapiles | Mo 10. Apr 2023 | |||||
13 |
★★ Dunes
![]() | 65m | Arapiles | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 19. Jun 2021 | ||||
Climbed up to the Oasis and rappelled down… already did the top section that is the same as Arab.
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12 |
★★ Watchtower Chimney
![]()
1
12
45m
2
8
17m
3
12
31m
4
8
18m
| 110m, 1 | Arapiles | Sa 6. Apr 2024 | |||||
11 |
★★ Dracula
![]()
1
11
25
Thankful to have a couple of good friends on the ground talking me through the start crux. Made it through, only to get panicked at the large off-width crack halfway through the pitch. Took me five tries and a bit of crying to get through it, I was scared out of my mind. It was one of those situations where you pull through the hard move hoping for something good above it, and there's nothing. Thankfully after the off-width crux it was gentle fun up to the belay ledge. This pitch feels much harder than an 11.
2
8
15
The off-width stemming section of this pitch was fun on second, but the exposure would be no joke on lead. After getting terrified on the first pitch, I was happy to relax on second for this pitch. The top out into the Pillars of Hercules with my friends waiting for me was absolutely stunning, and made all the struggle worthwhile | 40m | Arapiles | ★★★ Klassiker | Mi 15. Mär 2023 | ||||
10 |
★★ Xena
![]() | 110m | Arapiles | Do 17. Nov 2022 | |||||
My feet hurt, switched to hiking boots and it was smooth sailing. This seems like it would be a great climb if your toes aren't hurty.
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17 |
★★ Vandal
![]() | 50m | Arapiles | So 1. Apr 2018 | |||||
Good first and second pitch. Third one has a very tricky start with no protection for a while, which could lead to decking... Very commiting when leading at that grade. We'll try again
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16 |
★★★ Watchtower Crack
![]() | 95m, 3 | Arapiles | Do 21. Apr 2022 | |||||
Having to lead pitch 4 by headtorch was a nightmare. Started aiding pretty early so it became a long night.
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22 |
★★ The Second Coming
![]()
1
22
27m
2
21
30m
| 57m | Arapiles | Mo 29. Apr 2024 | |||||
19 |
★★★ Judgement Day
![]()
2
18
25
Vorstieg durch
AJ
Wow! Balancy. Don't fall off seconding as you approach the anchor, there ain't much gear in for you. This is the money pitch.
3
19
15
Vorstieg durch
John Pitcairn
Flubbed it. Tendonitis wrist lock up ow, then misread the crux sequence and didn't have the wrist strength/flexibility left to get out of trouble, pitched off on a good swinging fall into nothing. Managed to swing back into Shivers and dog the moves back up that, then did the crux easily. Hopefully will be able to revisit. | 67m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★★ Klassiker | Mo 22. Apr 2024 | ||||
17 |
★★ lphigenia
![]() | 45m | Arapiles | ★ Gut | So 10. Sep 2023 | ||||
Thanks Jack for roping this slab lover into a day of overhang climbing. Iphigenia is incredibly goey and pumpy, with a few potential spots for nasty falls onto ledges. One excellent handjam move on it. In one spot where Jack went left through a harder section, I went right and had a much easier time lay-backing on a big block.
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14 |
★★★ Lamplighter
![]() | 78m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Mi 7. Apr 2021 | ||||
Fell on the start of pitch 2
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12 ~13 |
★★ Watchtower Chimney
![]()
1
12
45m
2
8
17m
3
12
31m
4
8
18m
| 110m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 9. Sep 2023 | ||||
12 |
★★ Watchtower Chimney
![]()
1
12
45
2
8
17
3
12
31
Shared lead and seconding of the chimney pitch. Struggle city baha.
4
8
18
| 110m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★ Sehr gut | Mo 6. Nov 2023 | ||||
V9 |
★★★ CaveGirl
![]() | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | Fr 10. Nov 2017 | ||||||
V9 |
★★ Krusti
![]() | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | Fr 10. Nov 2017 | ||||||
V8 |
★★ Lindy, Oatey and Rushdie
![]() | Mt Alexander | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 24. Aug 2019 | |||||
Cool problem! Small foot dab in the loose rocks and dirt so will have to return for the send.
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V8 leicht |
★★★ American Dream
![]() | 5m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ★★ Sehr gut | So 12. Mai 2024 | ||||
cant do without dab need to come back
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V7 |
★★ French Toast
![]() | 5m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 22. Sep 2018 | ||||
Tried this end of the day. No skin left. Gonna give it another go tomorrow
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V7 |
★★ Pussy Power
![]() | 5m | Flat Rock | ★★ Sehr gut | Do 12. Aug 2021 | ||||
V6 |
★★ Stoplight Arete Left Variant
![]() | 5m | Halls Gap Area | Fr 3. Mai 2024 | |||||
Got all the good betas from the boys but stepped out left for the top out and dropped off. So apparently can’t actually claim the tick. #GoodBouldersDropOff
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V5 |
★★ No Sex After Mushrooms
![]() | Mt Stapylton Campground | ★★★ Klassiker | So 4. Mär 2018 | |||||
Good V4 started from the dynamic move.
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V5 |
★★ Sockdolager
![]() | 3m | Halls Gap Area | ★ Gut | Mo 10. Feb 2020 | ||||
Pretty sure i grabbed a hold on Nautilus
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V5 |
★★★ Sick Nutter
![]() | 4m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 7. Nov 2020 | ||||
V5 |
★★ Lysterine
![]() | 3m | Lysterfield Boulders | ★★ Sehr gut | Do 30. Dez 2021 | ||||
Each move takes a layer of skin. Good stuff
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V4 |
★ Tonka
![]() | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★ Gut | Sa 31. Mär 2018 | |||||
V4 |
★★ A horse is a horse
![]() | 5m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | Durchschnitt | Sa 31. Mär 2018 | ||||
Dabbed on a sticking up pad. Much sadness, wasting skin for a dab.
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V4 |
★★ A horse is a horse
![]() | 5m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | Fr 28. Sep 2018 | |||||
V4 |
★★ Crankshaft
![]() | 1m | Arapiles | ★ Gut | Mi 25. Sep 2019 | ||||
V6 V4 |
★ Media Construct
![]() | 4m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★ Gut | Sa 7. Nov 2020 | ||||
V3 |
★★ Uppercut V3
![]() | 4m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Sehr gut | So 17. Nov 2019 | ||||
Tree at the topout was too close to not to dab, so I toped out by using it. Great climb!
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V3 |
★★ Paranoiac Critical Town
![]() | 4m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Fr 22. Nov 2019 | |||||
V3 |
★ Bee's Knees
![]() | 5m | Halls Gap Area | ★ Gut | Mo 27. Jan 2020 | ||||
V3 |
★★ Wiggly Boy
![]() | 2m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 9. Jun 2020 | ||||
V3 |
★ Some Days You're a Whore
![]() | 5m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Sa 7. Nov 2020 | |||||
V3 |
★ 5
![]() | Arapiles | ★ Gut | Di 10. Nov 2020 | |||||
Scary
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V3 |
★★ Moisture for the dead
![]() | Mt Alexander | ★★ Sehr gut | Mo 13. Mär 2023 | |||||
Used the right dislocated boulder for feet first couple moves. Top holds felt a bit sketchy but held for the mantle.
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V2 |
★★ Orange Circuit
![]() | Inner Melbourne | ★★ Sehr gut | So 31. Dez 2017 | |||||
V2 |
★ Easy Lane
![]() | 3m | Halls Gap Area | So 30. Sep 2018 | |||||
V2 |
★ The V2 Sit
![]() | 4m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Sa 9. Mär 2019 | |||||
V2 |
★★ Child of Love
![]() | 5m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Sa 9. Mär 2019 | |||||
V2 |
★★ Flexor Traverse
![]() | 9m | Mt Stapylton Campground | ★★★ Klassiker | So 10. Mär 2019 | ||||
Amazing gymnastic movement.
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V2 |
★ V2 problem
![]() | 4m | Arapiles | ★ Gut | Mi 25. Sep 2019 | ||||
V2 |
★★ Some Days You Bore
![]() | 4m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Sa 23. Nov 2019 | |||||
V2 |
★★ Some Days You Bore
![]() | 4m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | Sa 7. Nov 2020 | |||||
V0+ |
★ Precious
![]() | 3m | Camels Hump | So 5. Mai 2024 | |||||
V0 |
★ The Crescent
![]() | 2m | Halls Gap Area | Mo 8. Jun 2020 | |||||
V0 |
★ Three Moves To Nowhere
![]() | Mount Beckworth | So 15. Jan 2023 | ||||||
40 |
★★ Hips Don't Lie
![]() | Arapiles | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 10. Sep 2022 | |||||
Needs more ascents to really clean up
|
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★★★ The Michael Berry Squeeze
![]() | 5m | Arapiles | Di 28. Mär 2023 | ||||||
19 |
★★★ The Last Rites
![]()
1
18
33m
2
18
24m
3
19
26m
4
17
41m
| 120m | Mt Rosea | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Mi 10. Mär 2021 | ||||
Great first two pitches, but just couldn't figure out how to start pitch 3. Both options appeared bold and runout. Bailed out to the right and escaped up Debutante.
Will return. |
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9 |
★★★ Siren
![]()
1
4
25m
2
8
35m
3
8
35m
4
6
25m
5
9
25m
| 150m | Arapiles | ★★★ Klassiker | So 17. Apr 2022 | ||||
That 2nd pitch step is a doozy for the head game! Really fun introduction to multi-pitch. Bailed at the rap on the 4th pitch due to rain coming in. Still want to go back and finish it.
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22 |
★★ Starless and Bible Black
![]()
1
21
20m
2
22
20m
| 40m | Arapiles | Sa 30. Mär 2024 | |||||
22 |
★★★ Reaper
![]()
1
21
2
22
| 40m | Arapiles | So 31. Mär 2024 | |||||
19 |
★★★ Judgement Day
![]() | 67m, 1 | Arapiles | ★★★ Klassiker | So 25. Feb 2024 | ||||
My first real traverse in a climb. I forgot my chalk back and got scared shitless during the traverse on the second pitch as I could feel my fingers slipping on the holds. John Capretta came to the rescue by throwing me his chalk bag from the belay station. He attached it with a nut for added weight and landed the throw flawlessly. Just another multipitch shenanigan at Araps.
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14 |
★★★ Watchtower Crack
![]()
2
14
| 95m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 19. Mai 2018 | ||||
Updated to add lead of second pitch on second time climbing it.
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15 |
★★ Toccata
![]()
1
15
27m
2
13
23m
| 50m | Arapiles | Mi 6. Sep 2023 | |||||
19 |
★★★ Judgement Day
![]()
1
10
27m
2
18
25m
3
19
15m
| 67m, 1 | Arapiles | Fr 21. Apr 2023 | |||||
16 |
★★ Yo Yo
![]()
1
13
30m
Vorstieg durch
Andy Parker
2
16
13m
3
16
13m
4
| 56m | Arapiles | Sa 9. Sep 2017 | |||||
8 |
★★★ Siren
![]()
1
4
25
2
8
35
3
8
35
| 95m | Arapiles | Mi 11. Okt 2023 | |||||
8 |
★★ Tantalus (Tantalus Linkup Muldoon)
![]()
1
7
20m
2
8
Verbindung Muldoon
| 20m | Arapiles | ★★ Sehr gut | Do 30. Jan 2020 | ||||
Bailed after first pitch in 44C heat. Angie continued 2nd pitch of Muldoon
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17 |
★ Deep Throat, Moist Lungs
![]() | 8m, 1 | Camels Hump | So 19. Feb 2023 | |||||
currently too mossy and sandy for my liking, and sun was directly in my eyes so couldnt see very much. might come back and brush it, looks like a nice line. really i just want the tick bc of the hilarious name
Climbed up to the break a couple times, but could always feel my fingers and feet ever so slowly spoodging off. which failed to inspire confidence |
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15 |
★ Tree House
![]() | 15m, 3 | Albury Quarry | So 19. Feb 2023 | |||||
Bailed. Too tenuous
|
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11 |
★ Can't Happen Here
![]() | 25m | Halls Gap Area | Mi 28. Dez 2022 | |||||
rock quality felt a little suspect through the roof. retreated to climb another day
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6 |
Feeble Fusion
![]() | 27m | Flat Rock | ★ Gut | Di 13. Dez 2022 | ||||
Probably got off route up top and ended up on some not so nice holds. Got more pumped then I’d want to be on a grade 6. Downclimbed from the top haha.
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28 ~29 |
★★★ Cobwebs
![]() | 20m | Arapiles | ★★★ Klassiker | Mi 26. Apr 2023 | ||||
27 ~28 |
★★★ FinaI Departure
![]() | 27m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Klassiker | Di 14. Mär 2023 | ||||
Cleaning Lucas's gear felt like an anti-climax after his send, but a great opportunity to get the beta (thank-you !) while it was nice and fresh.
Maybe 24/25 up to the start of the crux sequence then a nails V6 ? for 7 (hand) moves on shit holds with a lot of body tension before a lovely but completely blowable finish. I could imagine getting to the crux clean - possibly even next shot - but then failing at various points for the next 50 or so attempts before quitting climbing. Maybe I'll change my mind as I try it more, but for now, this feels sandbagged to the extreme. |
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27 |
★★★ Pink Rabbits
![]() | 20m, 7 | Halls Gap Area | ★★★ Klassiker | Mo 3. Apr 2023 | ||||
done in two parts while toprope soloing!!! keen to see how much harder it feels on lead !!!
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27 |
★★ Conditions of My Parole
![]() | 20m | Halls Gap Area | Di 4. Apr 2023 | |||||
So cool to this this got climbed. Well done to the FA. I toprope hangdogged the moves a few years back when living in the valley. Beautiful piece of rock.
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27 |
★★★ Mirage
![]() | 35m, 15 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | So 2. Apr 2023 | |||||
27 leicht |
★★ Les Memoires d'un Ane
![]() | 18m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Klassiker | Mi 31. Mai 2023 | ||||
Reminiscent of TITG, excellent and sustained climbing. I wouldn't call it thin or glassy
|
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26 |
★★★ Sirocco
![]() | 52m, 5 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ★★★ Klassiker | Mo 26. Dez 2022 | ||||
Don’t see how this one is possible lol. Maybe one day
|
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26 |
★★★ Yesterday
![]() | 27m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Di 14. Feb 2023 | ||||
Absolutely classic. Eats wires of all sizes. Lace it up to your heart's content and then enjoy the beautifully clean, sustained, steep climbing
A V3 off the deck, then a grade 18 crack up to the "crux" (also V3), then a short rest before a sting in the tail (yes, another V3). A couple of very good rests allow you to get virtually everything back just before the "crux". Next time for sure - worth going back for. |
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26 |
★★★ Yesterday
![]() | 27m | Arapiles | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | So 12. Mär 2023 | ||||
Close actually, held but couldn't move from the 2nd crux, hopped back on and hit but didn't hold the jug on the final crux. Classics-ville, one of the very best
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26 |
★★★ Drama Queen
![]() | 25m, 7 | Arapiles | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 29. Apr 2023 | ||||
This route is really, really good - I'm staggered more people haven't tried it. Eventually figured everything out, although took a few goes to actually figure out where the holds were.
Went left at the 4th bolt into AHLBB because we couldn't see any holds at all straight up. Still 26 though, even doing it that way (the move up and left are both hard anyway) ... would love to hear from Gordy if he was able to solve it going straight up from the scoop-of-no-progress just after the 4th bolt. |
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26 ~25 |
★★★ Anxiety Neurosis P2 Direct
![]() | 20m | Arapiles | So 30. Apr 2023 | |||||
Gravelly in places which was a challenge for 3rd day skin, but climbs really well in a stonker of a location. Super-soft touch though - the "26" section has two moves that are hard-ish but come after a good rest anyway.
Very nearly 2nd shot on TR despite much faff'ing about - will come back and redpoint (or even place on lead - don't think that would be any harder tbh) at some point soon I hope. |
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26 |
★★★ Sirocco
![]() | 52m, 5 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | So 21. Mai 2023 | |||||
TRS couldn't get the dyno or the mantle as the rope protraxtion wouldn't let me get super close to the wall but linked from there to the top.
|