Routen in Brasilien

The most famous route on Pao de Acucar and a mega classic for Rio. It's often done in two or three pitches and doesn't go all the way to the top. It's usually completed by connecting to other routes along the "West face", going all the way to the summit. This technical face and slab climb is directly under the cable car. The most common way is connecting with Cavalo Louco using either the "Variante da Italianos para o Cavalo Louco", or the "Variante Darcy Ribeiro" and then linking with Secundo Costa Neto. Either way, from base to summit is approximately 270m of fairly sustained climbing.

1. Pitch 1, 35m; Slab climbing through to the technical face crux near belay

2. Pitch 2, 43m; A sustained slab and face.

3. Pitch 3, 20m, Continue upwards to belay at shared anchor with CEPI or continue to make use of your full rope length.

Take about 14 draws and a few runners. This routes takes around 3-6 hours to climb to the summit.

There is a new finish on a bolted line aside the ferrata - "CEPI em Livre".

An outstanding excursion up the upper third of the massive cliff below Cristo Redentor. One of the classic routes of Rio de Janeiro. Climb of quite varied technique: Dihedral, slabs and holds. Although not technically difficult, the route begins at 550m above sea level with some sections that are quite exposed. Fast parties can climb it in 2 hours.

This is a very runout sport route (where people have broken ankles falling at P5) or so consider this a mixed trad route with the slab parts still being significantly runout.

Climb the southeast face of the mountain, and is ideally climbed in the afternoon shade. Getting to the start of the route: Walk along the train tracks for about 10 minutes to a shack on your left. Walk along the asphalt road four about 5 minutes and you'll come to a curve in the road. The trail starts here. Follow the trail to the cliff. Look up and you'll see a large dihedral and the start of this route.

P2 & P3 are often done in one pitch.

1. 25m (IVsup): A technical dihedral and out L to ledge and up to DBB.

2. 20m (IV): A delicate, exposed traverse out left and up to DBB (or continue up to P3 anchors.

3. 20m (IV): Delicate and exposed slab up then step R to DBB.

4. 25m (IV): Delicate and exposed out right to DBB.

5. 35m (IV): Slab, irregular dihedral, and irregular crack near the plateau at the end of this pitch. Walk along the dirt track a few metres to P6. Nuts and cams come in handy at the beginning. A few people have broken their angles falling low down on top the low angled slab.

6. 25m (IV): Slab with four bolts. Tree belay.

After finishing the route, follow the trail up through the grass and jump over the fence. You'll be right under Christ the Redeemer statue.

Double bolted anchors at all stations. Mostly fixed bolts along the route, but it is advisable to take cams and nuts especially on pitch 3 and/or if you do the variant first pitch (climb the full length of the dihedral).

Starting a few meters to the right of "Escadinha de Jacó".

1. Pitch 1: 35m; Up and to the right to reach double rings.

2. Pitch 2: 50m; Straight up to double rings.

3. Pitch 3: 25m; to the right to reach a ledge with double rings.

Take 11 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

Bolts are well-placed and not run-out.

Third route from the left on the north face. Start is straight at the end of the main entrance track. From Last pitch can take two ways to the top: best one is to link with Reinaldo Behnken straight up. 8 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

14th route from the left. Starts at a 2m-high block. 14 quickdraws if you feel like clipping every single bolt in the quite over protected pitches.

One of the most unique routes in all of Rio de Janeiro, Passagem dos Olhos traverses across a high and vertical section of the mountain face. Its horizontal and aerial nature make the experience of climbing it more challenging than its grade would suggest!

Same start as Avenida Contorno but keep going right about half way up.

Second route from the left on the north face of the mountain. Start is shortly to the left facing in to the end of the main entrance track. 7 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners for anchors.

Easiest one to lead on this face. Very nice! Single ring bolt at the top.

Classic of the sector! Video beta

Straight up

Rapel com corda de 60m

7th routhe from the left. Starts at an arete, and the first bolt is right after it. Mostly easy with a couple of moves at 18. First pitch goes for 50m and it's about a 13. Second pitch is again 50m, a bit harder, at 14/15 but with an 18 section. Third pitch is only about 25m and it's super easy. 4th pitch is again about 25m long, and about a 17. 8 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

First 25m is up a nice layback crack, then the rest 60m is face climbing. Although crack has been bolted, it can be done completely with trad gear. 6 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

Possui parada intermediária

Usually done as 1 pitch. One the the 50 best routes in Brazil (Livro: 50 vias Classicas no Brasil).

The set of anchors in the middle of the route are there to help with the abseil if your rope is shorter then 70m.

Shares top anchor with "O dia em que a Terra parou".

This is a long scramble up the east face of Pao de Acucar.

There is a 30m section of vertical 5.7 about half way up the face. It's fairly straight forward, but is technical climbing.

Take some draws and a short rope for the crux.

Começa junto em um abaulado e um reglete vai até o batente e domina.

This is a must for any climber visiting town! The second and third pitches can (should be) linked in a single pitch as well as the sixth and seventh pitches. It is definetely a great 5 pitches route! The fifth (fourth if you link the second and third pitch) is pure trad climb, it is a great pitch!

11th route from the left, about 20m right of Vilma Arnaud. First bolt is about 15m high. First route on this wall, from 1965. Very constant grade. 10 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

A via segue até a parada dupla que é comum às vias Valfenda, Tûk Tolo, Olho de Sauron, Cachimbo do Gandalf

First route on the face facing the track. DRBs at the top. It doesnt use the arête.

5 BRA

4 BRA

Compartilha a mesma agarra inicial da Idiotas Rupestres mas segue à direita em uma linha de chapeletas

Rapel com corda de 60m

A via segue até a parada dupla que é comum às vias Valfenda, Tûk Tolo, Olho de Sauron, Cachimbo do Gandalf

First few meters need to be climbed in artificial. This route is possible free at 6° VIIc E3 - see "CEPI em Livre".

The cable was put in 1952 by Centro Excursionista do Pico de Itatiaia which the acronym is the name of the via ferrata route. Later the cable was removed at the start of the climb after some accidents and deaths of non-climbers attempting the route with no equipment. The route has now been bolted and is a sport route - see "CEPI em Livre".

5º E1 BRA

Mostly done on bolts, but cams and stoppers needed for the first 20m of the first pitch (small to medium cams or medium to large stoppers). It finishes at the anchors of the 5th pitch of "Secundo Costa Neto" and from there you can reach the summit in another 3 pitches (making it a total of 270m). You can combine pitches 2, 3 and 4 into 2 pitches.

The start is at a crack a just left of the start of the famous "Via dos Italianos" route.

1. Pitch 1: 40m 1st pitch has a short crack at the beginning, then diagonal right to the belay just up and left from the Italianos belay.

2. Pitch 2: 30m Trend left with some face climbing and VERY delicate slabby traverses

3. Pitch 3: 30m Trend left with some face climbing and VERY delicate slabby traverses

4. Pitch 4: 25m

One of the nicest climbs on the Sugar Loaf!

Some fairly long run-outs between bolts by modern standards. Take long slings to help with rope drag. Some of the belays on this route are off one bolt.

10th route from the left, about 20 right from Arca de Noé. Grade is very constant, unlike many on this wall. 13 quick draws plus a few slings and biners.

Duas para a esquerda do Sextão Sessentão

5sup BR

Rapel com corda de 60m

Variante da "Rising from the vala", dominando pela esquerda, em um furo na pedra

Rapel ocom corda de 60m