Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | Kletterer | Datum | |||
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Croatia Dalmacija Hvar Vela Stiniva C – Cave | ||||||||
7a+ 7a+/b | ★★ Message in the bottle | 14m | ★★ Sehr gut | Mi 12. Okt 2022 | ||||
2nd try
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7b+ | ★★ Crossing Villi | 17m | ★★ Sehr gut | Mi 12. Okt 2022 | ||||
Hard to say if it is really 7b+, in any case I was really pumped after climbing the crux which was a traverse to the right relatively low in the route, and then two more moves on slopers up to a jug. I couldn't get rid of the pump until the end, but the upper part was easier, fortunately.
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7b+ | ★★ Crossing Villi - mit Linda, Gorazd, JAka, Jaka, Klara | 17m | Di 1. Nov 2022 | |||||
Super wet, the moisture on the rock made the climbing much more interesting and difficult. All the way to mid-crux, wetness made you wet your pants.
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6b+ | ★★★ Lavanda - mit Linda, Gorazd, JAka, Jaka, Klara | 15m | Di 1. Nov 2022 | |||||
Super wet, the moisture on the rock made the climbing much more interesting and difficult.
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7a+ | Zubatac - mit Linda, Gorazd, JAka, Jaka, Klara | 13m | Di 1. Nov 2022 | |||||
Super wet, the moisture on the rock made the climbing much more interesting and difficult.
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7a 6c | Galeb | 13m | Sa 23. Apr 2022 | |||||
not 6c, i would give 7a. but the whole crag is sandbagged.
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Croatia Dalmacija Hvar Vela Stiniva A – By the road | ||||||||
5b 5c | No name 1 | 6m | Fr 24. Jun 2022 | |||||
Flipper
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Croatia Dalmacija Hvar Sveta Nedjelja Via ferrata Hvar | ||||||||
B/C | Ferrata Via Mirko - mit Emma | 80m | Mi 11. Sep 2019 | |||||
Fun day out, some dude gave us cold beers at the top of the mountain. Nice
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Croatia Dalmacija Hvar Sveta Nedjelja Cliffbase D2 Tower West | ||||||||
6c | ★★ Edge west | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | Fr 17. Mai 2013 | ||||
I spotted this arête from miles away and knew I had to climb it. Wow I had to pull many tricks to finish this easy looking rig. Probably some of the hardest I had to pull all day and keeps coming to the top.
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6c | ★★ Edge west | 20m | Sa 1. Feb 2020 | |||||
Croatia Dalmacija Hvar Sveta Nedjelja Cliffbase D1 Tower North | ||||||||
7a | ★★★ Edge north | 30m | Mo 21. Apr 2014 | |||||
#2go Zaglupia na sajt
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7a | ★★ Stara vojna | 30m | Sa 20. Aug 2011 | |||||
7a | ★★★ Miss jadrana | 33m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Mo 22. Aug 2011 | ||||
#2go Great roof!!! 2 finger pockets in roof amazing...
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7a | ★★★ Miss jadrana | 33m | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 11. Okt 2022 | ||||
The overhanging final few metres were too hard on the first try without any chalk marking the holds
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6b | ★★ Maestre | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 18. Mai 2013 | ||||
Really good fun route. On the money for the grade and really enjoyable climbing.
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7a | ★★★ Hole fingering | 25m | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 18. Mai 2013 | ||||
Whoa this was touch and go... Top of the crux threw my heel up for a high rock over and stuck the hold but only just. Thought I was off but my fingers stuck and pulled me to the top. I love onsighting.
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7a | ★★★ Hole fingering (Hole Finfering) | 25m | So 21. Aug 2011 | |||||
#2go Hole fingering more alike
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6c | ★★ Mr. Fucker | 22m | ★★ Sehr gut | Fr 17. Mai 2013 | ||||
These routes on the backside of the massive pillar are in the shade (thank god) and are really interesting pocket flake pulling. Much fun once you figure where they go.
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6c | ★★ Mr. Fucker | 22m | So 21. Aug 2011 | |||||
Awesome
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6a | Santa Dominica | 12m | Durchschnitt | Sa 18. Mai 2013 | ||||
After a wee body shut down sleep was in order. Post sleep this was the warm up and I found it windy and pushy. Not that great but it was in the shade.
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Croatia Dalmacija Hvar Sveta Nedjelja Cliffbase C Behind Tower | ||||||||
8a | ★★★ See traverse | 150m | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 13. Aug 2022 | ||||
I did 150m at about 6b-6c difficulty.
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Croatia Dalmacija Hvar Sveta Nedjelja Cliffbase B2 Shadow | ||||||||
6b+ | ★★ Boli me lulek | 25m, 13 | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 18. Mai 2013 | ||||
This is a very odd ball route.. The start feels like marble then the climbing gets weird, the kind where you always feel like you have your hands the wrong way round. The top comes down to a strange stopper move that takes a min to figure.
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Croatia Dalmacija Hvar Sveta Nedjelja Cliffbase B1 Harbour | ||||||||
6a+ | Colakappa | 40m, 20 | Durchschnitt | Sa 18. Mai 2013 | ||||
Meh, not the best car in the lot. I had my backwards hands on big time for this.
Only the first section as the top two were 5c doodle.
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5c | ★★ Edge of the ass | 10m, 5 | ★ Gut | Sa 18. Mai 2013 | ||||
Cool little arête that I though about soloing but glad I didn't as it was slippery rock and harder then it looked.
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5c |
★★ Drum and base
1
15
2
10
| 25m, 14 | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 5. Okt 2019 | ||||
nur SL 1 + SL 2
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7a | ★★ Paradise Garden | 40m, 17 | ★ Gut | Mi 11. Mai 2011 | ||||
Pitch 1 only - 5b
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5b |
★★ Paradise Garden
1
10
2
10
| 20m, 17 | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 5. Okt 2019 | ||||
SL 1 + SL2
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Croatia Dalmacija Hvar Sveta Nedjelja Cliffbase A2 Pine | ||||||||
6a | ★ Selfcontrol | 40m, 14 | ★ Gut | Mi 11. Mai 2011 | ||||
Pitch 1 only - 5a
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6a+ | ★★ Isabelle | 40m, 15 | ★ Gut | Mi 11. Mai 2011 | ||||
Pitch 1 only - 5a
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6a | ★★ Marion | 40m, 13 | Mi 11. Mai 2011 | |||||
Pitch 1 only -5b
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6a | ★ Pica | 20m, 5 | ★ Gut | Sa 18. Mai 2013 | ||||
Because it was 20m instead of 40...
Climbs a cool feature that's starts as a corner and you end up finishing on an arête.
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6b+ | ★ Barracuda | 40m, 12 | ★ Gut | Sa 18. Mai 2013 | ||||
Loooonnng warm up at 40m's though I wouldn't bother climb the last section as its easy and not worth having to re tie to get down.
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6a+ | ★ Big crack | 35m, 19 | ★ Gut | Fr 17. Mai 2013 | ||||
Nice and long. Two long routes for breakfast and I was feeling worked already. This wall has so many routes all squished in It can be a little tricky to spot where your line goes.... Up
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6a+ | ★ Big crack | 35m, 19 | So 2. Feb 2020 | |||||
Uporan!
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Croatia Dalmacija Hvar Sveta Nedjelja Cliffbase A1 Garden | ||||||||
6c | ★★ Right pipe | 32m, 15 | ★★ Sehr gut | Fr 17. Mai 2013 | ||||
Mmm warm up... Not quite.
The first half is 5b then the extension kicks up straight off the belay. You have to work pretty hard in some of the thin spots but with good foot work and its not to hard.
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5b |
★★ Right pipe
1
5b
15
| 15m, 15 | Di 8. Okt 2019 | |||||
nur 1. SL
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6b | ★★★ Left pipe | 32m, 14 | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 18. Mai 2013 | ||||
Last route of the day and last route in Europe
Was hoping for a nice warm down but was served a unrelenting pocket groove with many balance moves and hard pulling on shallow pockets. I feel sorry for any 6b leader attempting this beasts.
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7a | ★★ Las Vegas | 32m, 17 | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 18. Mai 2013 | ||||
I though this was going to be easy.... Nope.
Long and sustained pocket pulling. The wall is vert with a few undulations so you have to work on the steeper places.
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7a | ★★ Las Vegas | 32m, 17 | So 2. Feb 2020 | |||||
Traje i traje
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6c+ 7a+ | ★★ Sarajevo | 30m, 17 | ★★ Sehr gut | Fr 17. Mai 2013 | ||||
This was one of the first really lines I spotted when I arrived yesterday. Climbs a long red pocked water groove. Sadly it's a little sharp but the climbing is good. Really sustained route with my whole body getting a pump.
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7a | ★★★ Central crack | 30m, 16 | ★★★ Klassiker | Fr 17. Mai 2013 | ||||
Great to climb the local test piece. Didn't find it that bad as its a bolted crack, lots of fun. The layback crux keeps you on your toes.
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7a 7b | ★★★ T2 kings | 30m, 17 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Sa 18. Mai 2013 | ||||
This looked ard from the ground so a questioned the 7a price tag but signed up for the ride anyway.
Yep hard, closer to 7a+ but brilliant pocket pulling with the odd jug so you can compose yourself. One of my favourite routes.
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6a+ 6b+ | ★ Sand beauty | 20m, 9 | ★ Gut | Fr 17. Mai 2013 | ||||
End of the day floundering. Took a couple of attempts to convince my hands to work to get off the ground but once I was up IT was on. May as well have been 7a as I dragged myself up it.
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7a | ★★★ Dragon boss | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Klassiker | Fr 17. Mai 2013 | ||||
One of those routes where you think that you just climbed the crux then it gets harder and harder. Split by good jugs but still no cake walk. The limestone on this wall feels very much like spurt wall with fine texture and funky orange holds.
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7b | ★★ Jeniffer lady | 20m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | Fr 17. Mai 2013 | ||||
This ones for you snacks....
The sun dropped behind some dark clouds for a min so I pounced and powered my way up the thin and pushing moves.
The heavens opened post crux but still climbed through.
Perhaps a little soft or I just got lucky.
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7b | ★★ Jeniffer lady | 20m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 11. Okt 2022 | ||||
Almost flash, I had climbed the hardest sequence but didn't chalk up and my fingers were finally too sweaty to go any further
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6c | ★★ Hajzl | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Klassiker | Fr 17. Mai 2013 | ||||
A random choice but a good egg. Long powerful jug links on poor feet. Funky fun all above the shitter.
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6c | ★★ Hajzl | 20m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | Mo 14. Okt 2019 | ||||
im 2.Versuch
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Croatia Dalmacija Hvar Lučišća Vilinja špilja | ||||||||
6a+ | ★ Rozi | ★ Gut | Fr 14. Okt 2022 | |||||
There is still quite a bit of loose rock
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6a+ | ★ Rozi | Sa 4. Mai 2024 | ||||||
Many loose rocks
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6b | ★★ Jugo | ★★ Sehr gut | Fr 14. Okt 2022 | |||||
Some loose rock in the route
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7c | ★★★ Yosemite Sam | ★★★ Klassiker | Fr 14. Okt 2022 | |||||
Nice 7a climbing on tufas up to the third bolt before the chain. Then there is a short overhanging boulder of about 2 metres with really small sidepulls before you get to some jugs. The boulder looked really hard to me and I decided it would probably take too long to find a beta, I'm not sure I could even climb it. After the jugs, you're almost at the anchor but clipping the anchor is quite hard. I didn't really try the last move anymore as I had already decided not to climb the route again, but I think clipping the chain would probably have been possible if had tried for a few minutes. I can't say if 7c is the correct grade, it depends on whether there is a nice solution to the boulder problem.
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7b | ★★★ Tonsai playgirl | ★★★ Klassiker | Fr 14. Okt 2022 | |||||
2nd try. Really nice, the crux is a traverse in an almost 90° overhang on tufas which was not too hard once I had found the beta and the kneebar (long trousers or kneepad for the left leg will make the kneebar much less painful than it was for me). Clipping the chain also took some attempts, but it's not so hard if you put your feet in the right places. Before the traverse, there is some nice and easy vertical climbing, however there's still some loose rock.
The fixed quickdraw can only be opened and closed with a considerable amount of force, avoid it if possible or use only when going down again to make collecting the quickdraws in the lower part easier. |
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6c | ★★ Lil’ Jura B. | ★★ Sehr gut | Fr 14. Okt 2022 | |||||
1 try, fell right at the anchor. It wasn't obvious to me at all how to clip the chain and it took me several attempts to find a beta (and the holds). Knowing the beta and where the holds are, the grade is probably about right. Nice route
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Croatia Dalmacija Hvar Straćine | ||||||||
6b leicht | Leut | 12m | Mi 3. Jul 2024 | |||||
Cool route! Many small rocks around, so remember helmet!
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5a | Igra | 10m | Mi 22. Jun 2022 | |||||
The climbing guide book says its a 4c. But I would agree with the 5a
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Croatia Dalmacija Hvar Zaraće | ||||||||
5b | ★★ Dean Potter | ★★ Sehr gut | Do 28. Jul 2022 | |||||
Super nice route!
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Croatia Dalmacija Hvar Milna - Pandolovica Sector D - CBD | ||||||||
7c | Dalibor Gelo - mit Linda, Gorazd, Klara | 25m | Do 3. Nov 2022 | |||||
An amazing line, hard with the sun and sweaty fingertips. Supr crimpy. Get ready for one try only, as sking goes away immediately.
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Croatia Dalmacija Hvar Podstine | ||||||||
6b | Demižana - mit Dorit Heinrich | 20m | Mi 25. Mai 2016 | |||||
Ameisen
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Croatia Dalmacija Brač Smokovlje Ljuska | ||||||||
5b+ 5a | ★★ Osan a - mit vale | 12m | ★★ Sehr gut | Mi 7. Sep 2022 | ||||
here aren’t any name.
I made the first from right looking the wall.
I think it’s is really more stronger
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6b | ★★ A, šta ja znan? - mit vale | 12m | ★★ Sehr gut | Do 8. Sep 2022 | ||||
There aren’t any name.
I made the second from right looking the wall.
I think it’s is really more stronger
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Croatia Dalmacija Omiš Vojan | ||||||||
7a | Gita | 32m | Fr 9. Aug 2019 | |||||
Direkt verzija, dobar detalj.
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6c+ | Hrabro srce | 20m | Mi 30. Jun 2010 | |||||
Rijesavamo stare dugove
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6c+ | Hrabro srce | 20m | Fr 23. Feb 2024 | |||||
Too bad we didnt check the guidebook twice. Thought this was 6a
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5c ~6a | Leptirov učinak | 30m | 2022 | |||||
Cesta, ve který je blbej dopad na polici při pádu u cvakání druhýho jištění.
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6a | Drolja | 13m | 2022 | |||||
Nejdřív těžká, po zkrokování a vymyšlení sekvence docela v pohodě. Moc pěkná cesta
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4a | Treba | 13m | 2022 | |||||
Příjemnej rozlez
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6b ~6a | Mjesečina ubava | 17m | 2022 | |||||
Trochu tu nesedí popis. Cesta je lehčí, ale o dost delší (6a, 25m).
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Croatia Dalmacija Omiš Visoke Pole | ||||||||
6c | ★★ Radler | 17m | ★★ Sehr gut | Fr 2. Sep 2011 | ||||
6b+/c nije los
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6c+ | Kasačko - mit Janusz Domka | 17m | Mo 29. Apr 2024 | |||||
I took 1 rest
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6c | Kiseli kupus | 30m | Sa 27. Aug 2011 | |||||
6c mi se čini ok ocjena...
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7b | ★★★ Droga | 25m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | So 28. Aug 2011 | ||||
Super, radi brzo i ne razmiljaj, samo čupaj
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7b | ★★★ Droga | 25m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Mo 9. Nov 2020 | ||||
Absolutly amazing! Just a big holds and nice moves!
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7b | ★★★ Droga - mit Janusz Domka | 25m | Mo 29. Apr 2024 | |||||
I had power only for 2 attempts
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7b+ 7b+/cc | ★★ Hašiš | 25m | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 14. Nov 2020 | ||||
7b+/7c Really nice one, same ending like droga but much more pumpy !
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6b | ★★ Za Stanislava | 18m | ★★ Sehr gut | So 28. Apr 2019 | ||||
Loved it, great movement - crux at the top section, struggled quite a bit.
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6b | ★★ Za Stanislava | 18m | Do 21. Apr 2022 | |||||
rained over night, the rock was still dry for the most part. but i guess the tufas will get wet with more rain.
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6b | ★★ Za Stanislava - mit Janusz Domka | 18m | Mo 29. Apr 2024 | |||||
Don't confuse and go to high or to low on crossroad with other route. Clean TR in 3rd attempt
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6c+ | ★★ Papa je s vama | 18m | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 15. Sep 2018 | ||||
Quite easy until the top but then you get the promised grade at the second tufa section - took me several attempts to find the right sequence. Sent it on the 2nd go after the onsight/projecting attempt.
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6c+ | ★★ Papa je s vama | 18m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | So 6. Jun 2010 | ||||
Malo sunca i ege i eto ga.. 6c/c+ tu je negdi moda zbog zadnjih pokreta +
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6c+ | ★★ Papa je s vama | 18m | ★ Gut | Fr 22. Nov 2019 | ||||
hard, steep climb
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6c+ | ★★ Papa je s vama - mit Janusz Domka | 18m | Mo 29. Apr 2024 | |||||
I took 2 attempts and 2 rests
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7a+ | ★★ W.A.S.P. | 20m | So 20. Jun 2010 | |||||
#2go Trovremenski taft
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7a+ | ★★ W.A.S.P. | 20m | Di 22. Okt 2019 | |||||
beautiful, sustained faceclimb, soft for the grade
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7a+ | ★★ W.A.S.P. | 20m | ★★★ Klassiker | Do 5. Nov 2020 | ||||
Very nice technical line. Quite soft i would say.
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6c+ | ★★★ Kastracija ili masturbacija | 20m | Sa 3. Jul 2010 | |||||
Uaaa najbolje penjat po suncu sto stupnjeva
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6c+ | ★★★ Kastracija ili masturbacija | 20m | ★ Gut | So 14. Apr 2024 | ||||
If you don't like your balls, this route is for you!
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7b+ | ★★★ Sex je precijenjen | 22m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Mo 11. Mai 2020 | ||||
Absolutly amazing line! My very first 7b+ finally ! a bit soft but nice!
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7b+ | ★★★ Sex je precijenjen — 2 Versuche | 22m | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 18. Mai 2024 | ||||
Fell in the last hard move during the onsight, because I couldn't see the jug 2 cm over the bad crimp i was holding... Sex is better.
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7b | ★★ R & B | 20m | Mo 2. Mai 2011 | |||||
Popet&forget, izdruge danas al cacnia san lani
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7b | ★★ R & B | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 7. Nov 2020 | ||||
Very nice one, maybe 7b/b+?
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7c | ★★ Rafting Pinta | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | Fr 17. Mai 2024 | ||||
Onsighted the crux boulder, but fell in the in the top climbing left when I should have gone right.
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7c | ★★ Rafting Pinta — 2 Versuche | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 18. Mai 2024 | ||||
Made it through the crux again and it was in the bag, but slipped on a plant as if I was standing on ice! 3rd Go
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5c | ★★ Geppeto | 12m | ★★ Sehr gut | So 16. Jul 2023 | ||||
Nice
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5c | ★★ Geppeto | 12m | Do 10. Aug 2023 | |||||
Physical start and then technical climbing
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6a | ★ Pinokio | 12m | Do 21. Apr 2022 | |||||
hard start
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6a | ★ Pinokio | 12m | ★ Gut | Di 26. Jul 2022 | ||||
Took a couple of attempts to work out the start
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6a ~6a+ | ★ Pinokio | 12m | Durchschnitt | Fr 14. Jun 2024 | ||||
The grading in Omis is something else
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7a | ★★ Trnoružica (Trnoruzica) | 16m | ★★ Sehr gut | Mo 12. Mai 2014 | ||||
Soft ili dobra forma?
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7a | ★★ Trnoružica | 16m | ★ Gut | Mi 31. Jul 2019 | ||||
Not that hard, but definitely not an easy one for me.
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