Begehungen in Deutschland als Onsight

17.Begehung

Nice pocket climb, probably easier than 7. Especially compared to its namesake at "Glatte Wand". Only one or two difficult moves, just below the anchor.

Terrific crack dihedral. The lower part looks intimidating, but it's actually the very finish that almost threw me off. The start can be climbed as a shoulder crack (left arm in) and isn't harder than, say, 6. Then a few meters of good jamming get you up into the dihedral, the size of the footholds decreasing in proportion to the height. Then all of a sudden the jams end and you're left standing on eggshells with barely a hold. There's a good hold out on the right, but that one's hard to spot if you're folded into the dihedral like I was. Managed to stay on the wall and got rewarded with a glory jug in the finishing crack (which is easier). Certainly a test piece (and probably harder than 7?).

Fairly homogeneous with a slight bump in difficulty to the anchor. Excellent sidepulls and underclings, tricky feet (used footjams up top 😊)

Wenn der Einstieg nicht wäre.... Ein Sahnestück des 7. Grades.

A nice climb in superb rock. Quite delicate and not too easy for the grade.

Im Leben keine 7 Im aktuellen Führer als 6 bewertet.

Ist aber spaßig Kräftiger Einstieg dann Genuss

Not really beautiful, unfortunately. Awkward climbing, and crux forced by the bolting that draws you back out of the crack into uncomfortable terrain.