Begehungen in Königstein haben Beta

Absicherung für starke Nerven

Hard at the beginning with small holds

Bold protection, but the difficulties are always directly after the bolts (of which there are only three). Brilliant pocket climbing, a tiny bit overhanging. Didn't feel hard for 8, but the route fits my climbing style exactly.

Kurze Boulderstelle. Sehr schön.

We actually thought that we'd climb "Peggy Perfect", but possibly the bolts have been removed and we climbed this one instead. Need to check next time I'm there. Similar in style to "Bikini", with the upper crux feeling a tad harder.

Not entirely sure if we really did this route or a different one. While there, we thought we were doing Peggy Perfect, but apparently those bolts have been removed.

Almost as good as its right neighbour; difficult sections after the first and third bolts, the rest is just glorious movement through a pocketed wall.

looks not so pretty, but it´s very good climbing! quite easy for the grade

7+/8-

Sadly there are two chipped pockets on the first meters :-(

Tricky and powerful boulder start, unique hold shapes. Nice one, but hard for the grade.

Polish

Pretty hard for the grade, even with all those annoyingly accurate tick marks.

Bouldery start. Good moves and perfect rock quality throughout. #warmup

One of the best!

harder than its left neighbour...

Unten etwas brüchig, oben schön.

Whoa. Unexpected greatness at the edge of the wall. Bold, hard, good. Gnarly mono move before the first bolt. The vertical sections are slightly easier, but you're always on edge nevertheless. The long sling is threaded through a good peg. After the third bolt, you fight your way up over the little bulge, just to stand up into a sea of shallow dimples. Keep your eyes peeled towards the top or you might just take a good long fall.

Awkward start, I hope the undercling doesn't break off at some point, could be a nasty landing in the dust. Then relatively good holds to a ledge. Hard climbing from there on with slanted footholds in a shallow dihedral. Height helps a bit. Jugs to the anchor.

Nice slab with good moves in good rock. Soft in the grade, especially compared to e.g. "Straight Up" at the same crag.

Im alten Kletterführer war es eine 8- … Naja es ist wohl eher eine 7/7+

easier than falscher hase

Tough boulder start before the first bolt. The rest is nice with big holds.

Can't believe I onsighted it. In my guide it is a 6+, but 7- feels appropriate, found it quite scary between the last bolt and anchor.

One Move Wonder

Richtig toll, nie wirklich schwer, am 2. Haken muss man sicher sein.

Contrary to the guides no top-roping possible, used tree for abseil

Unremarkable variant start to the left neighbour. Quite dusty.

Bad excuse to bolt a chimney. But since the bolts are on the left, people climbing this one properly aren't exactly compelled to clip them because they're behind you (nobody in their good mind would climb it with the right shoulder in). Anyway, since there's no anchor for "Uhuriss", I didn't go up all the way (the last 3 meters are easy chimneying) and instead went to the anchor of this one.

Good rock and cool moves for the grade between the third and the fourth bolt. My favourite of the easier routes here so far.

Mit Einstieg von rechts deutlich leichter.

Quite short, nice jugs to anchor. Nothing special.

Crux after the first bolt felt quite hard

Unpleasant to the first bolt. Ok climbing afterwards, traverses far right to the anchor.

Fun steep start on pockets and jugs, easy afterwads

Just these few first moves

Full-on chimney action in between a myriad of wall climbing classics. Me likey. Two cruxes: the start (getting into the slit) and the narrow part in the middle (rusty peg). You're always in with your left shoulder and there's plenty of good spots to place protection in the back. Easy after the narrow part.

very nice! not easy to read!

Abischerung schwierig

My guidebook said 6-, I climbed it as an 6+ by missing all the good holds

Sparingly bolted, dihedral adventure. Challenging!

I liked the crack part, went to Abra Kadabra's top

Really nice route, and easier than it looks.

Nice route with good holds in the bottom section. Kept left at the last bolt for a crux-y finale.

Ok wall climbing, nothing special.

Steep and surprisingly tricky. Graded 5+ in the schwertner, this seems more realistic.

#warmup #barefoot