Begehungen in Kühlochfels

Great continuous climbing! To try again next time

Der zweite Haken ist etwas seltsam (aber verständlich) eingebohrt. Bei meiner Variante hätte ich mir den etwas weiter rechts gewünscht. So kann man natürlich auch die Linksvariante und die Direktvariante probieren.

War naß…

Fiddled around for ages after the first bolt to get a bad nut in, then found a decent placement for a black totem a meter above that, which I trusted enough to go up to the second bolt. Unfortunately I was almost completely empty at that point. Still, I pushed on past the bolt, and even tried to bump up with my last strength, so I took a nice whipper. Didn't manage to get to the third bolt after that, though, I was just too exhausted. Next try is going to be much easier, no more fiddling around in the lower part.

Bad excuse to bolt a chimney. But since the bolts are on the left, people climbing this one properly aren't exactly compelled to clip them because they're behind you (nobody in their good mind would climb it with the right shoulder in). Anyway, since there's no anchor for "Uhuriss", I didn't go up all the way (the last 3 meters are easy chimneying) and instead went to the anchor of this one.

Full-on chimney action in between a myriad of wall climbing classics. Me likey. Two cruxes: the start (getting into the slit) and the narrow part in the middle (rusty peg). You're always in with your left shoulder and there's plenty of good spots to place protection in the back. Easy after the narrow part.

Whoa. Unexpected greatness at the edge of the wall. Bold, hard, good. Gnarly mono move before the first bolt. The vertical sections are slightly easier, but you're always on edge nevertheless. The long sling is threaded through a good peg. After the third bolt, you fight your way up over the little bulge, just to stand up into a sea of shallow dimples. Keep your eyes peeled towards the top or you might just take a good long fall.

Unremarkable variant start to the left neighbour. Quite dusty.

Hard until and especially right at the second bolt. Crux is very size-dependent. In my guidebook still 7+. A hard 8- as graded on thecrag might be correct on average.

EOD toprope inspection lap. Powerful start, then gnarly and very runout technical arete climbing. One move I didn't sort in the limited time I had on this.

A surprisingly hard slab, leads to a wild, but scarily finale through the rooflet, and up the prow above.

Just the one shot. Frustratingly wet and cold today meant frozen fingers, and not much fun climbing this. Seems like it would be brilliant in better conditions. My flash ended on the final moves to the anchor.

Amazing, technical face climbing on sloping pockets... though 2 bolts in 20m is somewhat terrifying. On my onsight I fell off above the last bolt, necessitating getting scared again for the flash.