Begehungen in Schaufels

Sehr weite BH Abstände, es kann aber gut gelegt werden. 1. Stand alternativ 1,5m links vom großen Ring (Abseilpiste von 'Zwergentod'). Crux sehr abgespeckt und dadurch noch härter, aber gut gesichert. Achtung in der letzten SL nicht die Sanduhr anklettern, sondern vorher rechts raus queren.

awesome! what a view!

Haken überstiegen, Sackgasse..

Geniale Tour!

Leider im sehr schönen ersten Quergang einmal den Fuß abrutschen lassen. Die Quergänge sind sehr schön zu klettern. Besonders in der 4. SL muss man den einfachsten Weg erstmal finden (mal hoch, mal wieder etwas runter).

Insgesamt eine schöne, lohnende Route. Teilweise etwas speckig aber alles im Rahmen des Verträglichen.

The entry pitch is really good and worthwhile even if you abseil again afterwards. Probably 35 meters or more. First steep crack and holes then a slab at the end. From the first belay you go along the old rings first a little to the right and then directly up into the crack (fist, hand). It felt harder than the first pitch, but probably the power decreased and my crack technique was really bad or not existing. Then we had to abort because of the approaching darkness. Rappelled down with head light So the limited free time was used to the maximum.

#lastrouteoftheday

Second attempt with success. As I had already onsighted the 2nd pitch I was not motivated enough today. I felt that the 2nd is harder than the others. But maybe I just did a stupid job. The third pitch is also great. In contrast to the second one, it requires more endurance because it is continuously difficult. The crack is finger-width at the beginning and a really good fist clamp is waiting at the last hook. Thank God, because without it the on sight attempt would have failed. I had almost used up all my grains. Shortly before sunset I reached the rock head happy and exhausted. Great route.

Hiltrun Buck followed at dusk and made it to the exit. During her ascent I could enjoy the nature and the peace at this time of day. It was wonderful to see the falcons flying under me and the Danube flowing. Hopefully this was not the last beautiful afternoon in the Däle.

And again a mega rope length. Very long and the rope routing is a challenge. Maybe it makes sense to divide the first pitch to not have so much drag on the rope. But it was okay. The hardest part is the beginning. There are plenty of bolts. That is quite plaisir. After that, the bolt spacing becomes greater, but the climbing is also easier. Which does not mean that it is less appealing. The second pitch I absolutely still have to climb. Volunteer belayers ahead

Erste Hälfte der zweiten SL gehört für mich zu eine der besten Klettereien im Däle.

Great route steep and long. Protection sufficient. Except for the 4th pitch everything ascended as #alzheimer-flash. The exit pitch offers a grand finale and historical insights. One climbs past the really fat iron ring which already 1927 daredevils dared a tightrope walk.

First portaledge experience! The first pitch was spicy and more polished then expected. Took a nice fall to warm up the spirits. Also took an unexpected fall when hauling, what a scare! Good that the backup rope was there Second pitch was also a good lead for me, Pieter wasn't in for it. Started mounting the portaledge by deep dusk, went pretty smooth after all. We went down for food and riesling on a single rope expecting to "have a highway to our bed after dinner". Pieter jumared his way up in maybe 25 minutes, getting there with a lot of swearing using his improvised jumaring setup. I top tope solo'd it up but also had a hard time after the day and the riesling. Good sleep, chilly though. Remember not to pee next to the anchor! First poop tube experience! Pieter led the last pitch the next morning. Good riddance!

An vielen Stellen große Steine ausgebrochen und die Route etwas anders. Zustieg schwieriger weil zum Teil verschüttet!