Begehungen in Süderbergland als Onsight

Best route in the Illumina sector

Tricky and very demanding (on the head) moves. Good one. Why the shitty bolts at the top?

Zwei Mal rechts um die Kante herum "rausgestiegen" um auszuruhen.

Vague line with a thin crux and loads of rope drag. Technically onsight but it felt like the rope drag helped me in places. Maybe more enjoyable when you use long draws for some bolts.

A fun and very delicate climb. Feels like almost falling off for the most part.

40m and interesting all the way! You don't expect such gems in a quarry. Though do expect some black balls of daddy longlegs here and there. Thanks Kiki.

too easy, maybe a 6

A slab/ arête but the apparent line is not the route unfortunately. The guide does not clarify either. I traversed right at 5th bolt instead of going onto the slab on the left of the arête but that's more like 6c+/ 7a and you end up climbing on horrible brown rock. After watching Basti, the easiest line seemed to be to escape onto the slab between bolt 4 and 5.

too easy, is not a 7, powerful scramble

die Linie ist etwas gesucht; wenn sie gefunden ist sind die Züge schön.

Quite wide bolts but not sketchy.

100 times better than it looks with nice, techy moves! The topo-description is accurate – adventurous and airy. The rock is still quite fresh. Good friction compared to other climbs here! I linked the two pitches. (Revolver draw for 1st anchor, 2nd pitch: unclipped 1st bolt and alpine draw for 2nd. Still some rope drag from the intermediate anchor.) Passing the final bulge, my first idea was to break out to the right but there's some vegetation/ small tree stumps blocking the holds. Managed to climb almost straight over the bulge in the end after downclimbing two moves. Grading this is a little difficult. The moves are not so hard but the climbing is sometimes awkward, in parts not so obvious and requires some confidence. I'd say solid 7, alpine touch.