Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | Kletterer | Datum | |||
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Norway Northern Norway Finnmark Himmeldalen Brattberget | ||||||||
7+ | ★★ Trusa på utsida — 2 Versuche | 14m | ★★ Sehr gut | Mo 7. Aug 2023 | ||||
Had trouble around the fourth bolt, fingers and overhung, shame it’s so far from home!
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6- | ★ Batman | 13m | ★ Gut | Mo 7. Aug 2023 | ||||
The rock looks bad but nothing came off. A steep jug haul
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6+ | Ironman | 12m | Durchschnitt | Mo 7. Aug 2023 | ||||
The good bit is quite short
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Norway Northern Norway Finnmark Himmeldalen Main C | ||||||||
6 | ★ Flygende C | 12m | ★ Gut | So 6. Aug 2023 | ||||
Did it without the right chalked up flake and went direct over bolts. Climbed ok but the nearby crack and bolt placements made it feel contrived
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6+ | ★★ Hulken | 9m | ★★ Sehr gut | So 6. Aug 2023 | ||||
Best route of the day, felt twice as long due to right to left and back movement throughout. Pleased with the OS, it kept me fighting.
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6 | ★ Dr. Bruce Banner | 7m | ★ Gut | Mo 7. Aug 2023 | ||||
Squeezed it in as the rain came. I should know better than to get on 6 m routes. Found it harder than the 6+ route to the right as it is Bouldery rather than pumpy
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Norway Northern Norway Finnmark Himmeldalen Main B | ||||||||
7- | Trim de eldre — 2 Versuche | 15m | Mo 7. Aug 2023 | |||||
Got confused by the grid bolting on the wall. This route gets 3 stars in the online guide but unfortunately the concept of hanging space has been neglected making routes either side impinge on the original. Also a loose block through the roof which I was able to avoid.
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6 | ★ Langtrur | 25m, 21 | ★ Gut | Mo 7. Aug 2023 | ||||
One long pitch. A bit discontinuous
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Norway Northern Norway Finnmark Himmeldalen Main west | ||||||||
7 | ★ St. Pavel | 25m | ★ Gut | So 6. Aug 2023 | ||||
Really enjoying the rock, looks pretty crappy but rewards technique. Reminds of stuff around wanaka
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6+ | ★ St. Peter | 14m | ★ Gut | So 6. Aug 2023 | ||||
Nice roof to start
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5 | Oljeberget | 25m | So 6. Aug 2023 | |||||
Not sure why the rope ladder is there, the start was fine without it. Maybe adds a grade. Nice long route and intro to the rock.
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7- | ★ Himmelspretten P1 | 9m | ★ Gut | So 6. Aug 2023 | ||||
Found this harder than the N7. The slopers felt super slippery in the sun
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Norway Northern Norway Finnmark Akkarfjord Fiskefeltet | ||||||||
6a+ 6a | ★★ Flyvefisken | ★★ Sehr gut | Mo 26. Aug 2019 | |||||
very bouldery crux, difficult to read. You clip the first bolts before the crux starts though, so its safe!
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5+ | ★★ Gjedda | ★★ Sehr gut | Mo 26. Aug 2019 | |||||
fun crux in the start of the route!
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Norway Northern Norway Troms Sør-Troms Senja Ørnfjord | ||||||||
5+ | ★ Viking | 65m | ★ Gut | Di 25. Jul 2023 | ||||
First pitch only
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5+ | ★★ Frigg | 65m | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 25. Jul 2023 | ||||
Probably my favourite of the five
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5- | ★ Thor | 65m | ★ Gut | Di 25. Jul 2023 | ||||
Lovely setting, amazing rock, great to get out of the car
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6- | Hrafn | 65m | Mi 26. Jul 2023 | |||||
Nice flake with interesting exit, good it’s been left trad
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4+ | Freya | 57m | Durchschnitt | Do 27. Jul 2023 | ||||
Dave headed up this in error with only slings as runners. He managed to place two and was welcomed by a “ Gday mate” as he got to the anchor.
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5+ | ★★ Sondre | 52m | ★★ Sehr gut | Mi 26. Jul 2023 | ||||
Nice climb, dave ran both pitches together
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5+ | ★ Tiril | 55m | ★ Gut | Mi 26. Jul 2023 | ||||
Ran both pitches together
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5+ | ★ Hilda | 54m | ★ Gut | Do 27. Jul 2023 | ||||
Had to get the final route in before we left. Small climbing world, ran into expat kiwi Rick Macgregor, responsible for many fine Kiwi and Australian FAs.
Unfortunately the route has a couple of chips. The crag was the ultimate in consumer climbing, not something to emulate back home.
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Norway Northern Norway Troms Tromsø Kvaløya Brensholmen Panoramaveggen | ||||||||
7- ~6b+ | ★★ Psycho I — 2 Versuche | 15m, 5 | Fr 28. Jul 2023 | |||||
Nails crux, felt more 22 +, given N 7- in local guide. Nice moves, some flaky flakes
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6a | ★★ Nesheim-ruta | 15m | ★ Gut | Fr 28. Jul 2023 | ||||
Seems the main route now on head wall
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6a | ★★ Panorama cafe | 43m, 15 | ★ Gut | Fr 28. Jul 2023 | ||||
Over 35m, pitch one is 30 m, pitch 2 about 15 m. The top bolt bracket is missing but easy to step right into adjacent line for finish anyway
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Norway Northern Norway Troms Tromsø Kvaløya Brensholmen Psykologveggen | ||||||||
6 | ★ Akrofobi | 26m | ★ Gut | Fr 28. Jul 2023 | ||||
Interesting route on some large quartz holds
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Norway Northern Norway Troms Tromsø Kvaløya Kattfjordsvaet | ||||||||
4b | ★ Vassfaret - mit Adele Westgård | ★ Gut | So 10. Jul 2022 | |||||
First pitch only
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4b | ★ Lipton - mit Adele Westgård | ★ Gut | So 10. Jul 2022 | |||||
First pitch only for now
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Norway Northern Norway Troms Tromsø Kvaløya Mellomtind | ||||||||
6+ | FA ★★★ Tromvik Ballettskole - mit Nils Hermann Wiggen | 130m | ★★★ Klassiker | Di 1. Jun 2021 | ||||
Ground up onsight FA, a proper adventure!
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Norway Northern Norway Troms Tromsø Kvaløya Gullknausen Brosmeveggen | ||||||||
6+ 6b | ★★★ Flikkflak | 100m | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 3. Aug 2013 | ||||
Mycket fin. Första repan. Styv.
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6+ 6b | ★★★ Flikkflak | 100m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Sa 6. Jun 2020 | ||||
Soaking wet, but still good
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Norway Northern Norway Troms Tromsø Kvaløya Gullknausen Karatveggen | ||||||||
5+ 5c | ★★ Platinabaren | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 3. Aug 2013 | ||||
Very good route!
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Norway Northern Norway Troms Tromsø Kvaløya Ersfjorden | ||||||||
6a | ★ Sjarmøren | 12m, 8 | ★ Gut | Do 3. Aug 2023 | ||||
Short but nice
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6b | ★★ Sekspress | 20m, 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | Do 3. Aug 2023 | ||||
Quite fun and great views
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7- 6b+ | ★★★ Dingel dangel | 25m, 11 | ★★★ Klassiker | Fr 2. Aug 2013 | ||||
Superfin!
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6b 6b+ | ★★★ Dingel dangel | 25m, 11 | ★★ Sehr gut | Do 14. Jun 2018 | ||||
Nice climb. Felt quite easy.
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5c | ★ Prinsessa | 20m | ★ Gut | Do 3. Aug 2023 | ||||
Interesting and quite steep.
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6 | ★★ På sva er vi alle trist som faen | 20m, 9 | ★ Gut | Do 3. Aug 2023 | ||||
Interesting slab and corner
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Norway Northern Norway Troms Tromsø Kvaløya Hollendaren massif Masta | ||||||||
5+ | ★★ Sørpilaren - mit Fannny | 250m | ★ Gut | Mi 28. Jul 2021 | ||||
Thought we´d signed up for a casual stroll. Wrong. Climbs very old school
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Norway Northern Norway Troms Tromsø Kvaløya Hollendaren massif Baugen | ||||||||
5- | ★★★ Vårrusen | 150m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Mi 5. Aug 2020 | ||||
Part of a long run/scramble.
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5- | ★★★ Vårrusen | 150m | Di 1. Aug 2023 | |||||
Pitch 1 only. ( by mistake), mainly solo, then roped up for the last 5 m when it looked a bit serious.
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5+ | ★ Gallionsruta | 250m | Di 1. Aug 2023 | |||||
Did this the evening we arrived, always good to suss out the descent route. Ended up “ scrambling” up too far and did first pitch of Varussen before getting onto route. 24 hour daylight is great.
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6- | ★★ Stjernedans | 150m | ★ Gut | Do 1. Aug 2013 | ||||
Erik gick först på de hårdare reporna. Jag fick klättra utsteget. Fin tur, men svårt att hitta insteget.
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6- | ★★ Stjerndans | 150m | Di 1. Aug 2023 | |||||
Quick run up this morning before the weather changed.pitch 1, finally sussed the start, Pitch 2 amazing.P3 some pretty shallow placements.
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6- 6-/6 | ★★★ Baugsprydet | 250m | So 28. Jun 2015 | |||||
Trad
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6+ | ★★★ Silhuetten - mit Fanny | 230m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Mi 28. Jul 2021 | ||||
Finished up Silhuetten
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6+ | ★★★ Alexis - mit Fanny | 220m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Mi 28. Jul 2021 | ||||
Pleasantly epic. Took extra 0.4-#1, which was nice.
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6+ | ★★★ Ballongsnoppen | 250m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Sa 8. Aug 2020 | ||||
Finished up Krumtappen. The link up is one of the best routes on the wall!
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6+ | ★★★ Krumtappen | 250m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Sa 8. Aug 2020 | ||||
Climbed the start of Ballongsnoppen
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7 A0 7+ | ★★★ Thanatos - mit Sara | 220m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Mi 28. Aug 2019 | ||||
Wow! The rumours are true, this is an outrageous line! Too many cookies for me this summer to send the enduro pitch without pulling on gear
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7+ | ★★★ Thanatos | 220m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Di 1. Aug 2023 | ||||
Led pitches 1,3,5 all clean. P2 clean. The crux pitch, did all moves free but needed a few ( quite a few) rests. The God of death, that’s how you feel after doing the 45 m overhanging hand crack. Mega classic.
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7 | ★★★ Gemini | 220m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Fr 12. Jun 2020 | ||||
Followed crux pitch clean, lead the last 7- . Had to do a variant around a wet second pitch.
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Norway Northern Norway Troms Tromsø Kvaløya Hollendaren massif Lanterna | ||||||||
5+ 5 | ★ Lanterna | 220m | ★ Gut | Do 13. Jun 2019 | ||||
Quite horrible adventure for early rope climbing season. Started 8pm in good beautiful weather. Finding and following the route was not easy. Fog came around midnight, and later rain. We consumed all edibles and water quite early on this 12h adventure. Was horrible to rappel down on steep snowy-icy slope where one should have had winter shoes with crampons. Rappel anchors would have made it muuuuch better.
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Norway Northern Norway Troms Tromsø Kvaløya Blåmannen | ||||||||
8- 8 | ★★★ Atlantis | 340m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Mo 3. Aug 2020 | ||||
Sick route, amazing wall. French freed the cruxes, Most of the remaining pitches went free.
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Norway Northern Norway Troms Tromsø Kvaløya Småbakkan Normalplanet Flåklypa | ||||||||
4+ | ★★ Kanten — 4 Versuche - mit KvG, MaHa | ★★ Sehr gut | So 18. Jun 2023 | |||||
Couldn't do the last move. Everything in Småbakkan feels very sandbagged.
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Norway Northern Norway Nordland Salten Bodø Fugløya Hagtind | ||||||||
A3 8- | ★★★ Festivalruta (Sorfuggloya) | 400m | ★★ Sehr gut | Di 13. Apr 2010 | ||||
Ends in loose part of the wall
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Norway Northern Norway Nordland Salten Bodø Kjerringøy Breitind og Trolltinden | ||||||||
2 | Vestryggen - mit Ine Sofie Østmo | Sa 17. Jun 2023 | ||||||
Very tricky descent, snow all over the normal route down. Would be much nicer in July when dry.
Combined with Breitind, ~16 hrs car to car.
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4+ | ★ Vest til Aust Travers - mit Ine Sofie Østmo | ★ Gut | Sa 17. Jun 2023 | |||||
Relatively loose. Easy terrain and nice for practicing alpine skills.
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Norway Northern Norway Nordland Salten Bodø Kjerringøy Strandåtind | ||||||||
5 ~5- | ★★★ Direkterissa - mit Ine Sofie Østmo | ★★★ Klassiker | So 18. Jun 2023 | |||||
Super cool line in alpine terrain. Went in boots, easily protected.
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4 | ★★★ Strandåtindtraversen - mit Ine Sofie Østmo | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | So 18. Jun 2023 | |||||
Great day out, an amazing route that stands its ground to many of the big ridges in The Alps.
~6hrs moving time car to car. Pitched the two climbing sections in boots, soloed the rest.
Alpine grade: AD 4,.
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Norway Northern Norway Nordland Ofoten Hamarøy Sleppen Hovedveggen | ||||||||
6+ | ★★ Steinspranget | ★★ Sehr gut | Fr 26. Jun 2015 | |||||
soft. nice. too many bolts
Soft |
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7 | ★ Vannmysteriet | Durchschnitt | Fr 26. Jun 2015 | |||||
Very soft. 6b+ in the app but max 6a+. Loose rocks.
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Norway Northern Norway Nordland Ofoten Hamarøy Tysfjord og Efjorden Eidetind | ||||||||
5+ | ★★★ Engelskdiederet - mit L.Söder | 200m | Fr 29. Jul 1994 | |||||
Swapping leads
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Norway Northern Norway Nordland Ofoten Hamarøy Tysfjord og Efjorden Kugelhorn | ||||||||
7- | FA ★★★ Nordvestpassasjen - mit Stian Bruvoll | 370m, 3 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Sa 10. Aug 2019 | ||||
Gradually steepening handcrack for 100m plus leads to 2 distinctive crux pitches. #4 & #5 handy.
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5- | ★★★ Østkammen - mit Michael Oldroyd | 440m | ★★★ Klassiker | Fr 31. Aug 2018 | ||||
Awesome exposure
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Norway Northern Norway Nordland Ofoten Hamarøy Tysfjord og Efjorden Stetind | ||||||||
4+ | ★★★ Sydøsteggen (Sydøsteggen/Normalveien) | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Do 20. Jun 2019 | |||||
3.5 h to the Top of Stetind from the car park.
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4+ | ★★★ Sydøsteggen - mit Birte Köbberling | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Do 26. Aug 2021 | |||||
Super Berg, super Tour. Blauer Himmel und tolle Fernsicht.
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6- | ★★★ Sydpillaren - mit Lars S | 630m | Sa 30. Jul 1994 | |||||
swapping leads
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6- | ★★★ Sydpillaren | 630m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Mi 28. Aug 2019 | ||||
Simul climbed the first 9 pitches
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6- | ★★★ Sydpillaren | 630m | Mo 13. Jul 2015 | |||||
Trad
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6- | ★★★ Sydpillaren | 630m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Fr 27. Aug 2021 | ||||
Onsight, Highlight! Allein am Gipfel ...
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6 | ★★★ Vesteggen | 260m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Di 23. Aug 2011 | ||||
Doesn't get better than this!!
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6 | ★★★ Vesteggen | 260m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Fr 20. Jul 2018 | ||||
Climbed through the night
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6+ | ★★★ Vestveggen - mit Fanny, Karl Olof Hallberg | 350m | ★★★ Klassiker | Di 28. Jul 2020 | ||||
Quality climbing, outrageous setting..much less walking than the other routes. What´s not to like?
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Norway Northern Norway Nordland Ofoten Narvik Haugfjellet Store veggen | ||||||||
5+ A0 | ★★ Senterlinje | 200m | ★★ Sehr gut | Do 10. Aug 2023 | ||||
Unfortunately rained off after second pitch ( kind of predicted but we thought we would try anyway). The first 75m were good
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Norway Northern Norway Nordland Ofoten Narvik Haugfjellet Kjerringveggen | ||||||||
6 | ★ Holoholahoy | 15m | Mi 9. Aug 2023 | |||||
Looked deceptively easy. May have been the 25 degree day…
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6+ | ★★ Escalade feminine | 10m | ★ Gut | Mi 9. Aug 2023 | ||||
Is a 7- in guide but wasn’t too bad ( since I backed up piton with a preplaced long sling.
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7 | ★★ Den Lille — 2 Versuche | 9m | ★★ Sehr gut | Mi 9. Aug 2023 | ||||
Short but very much liked it, bouldery the cracky
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6- | ★ Jepperuta | 18m | ★ Gut | Mi 9. Aug 2023 | ||||
Some steep but good holds
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7 ~7- | ★ Adjöss och tack för fisken | 18m | ★ Gut | Mi 9. Aug 2023 | ||||
Presuming this is the rebolted ex trad route left of Jeppenruta. Not too hard.
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Norway Northern Norway Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Northeast Stauren | ||||||||
M5 WI5- WI4 - 5 | ★★★ Bruvoll-Widlund - mit Andreas Widlund | ★★★ Klassiker | Fr 31. Dez 2021 | |||||
Great climb on snow, ice and turf. One steep ice section and a bouldery mixed pitch
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Norway Northern Norway Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Svolvær- området Råna | ||||||||
6- | ★★ Råna - mit Hilde | 270m | ★★★ Klassiker | Sa 8. Sep 2018 | ||||
Difficult route finding with some great pitches up high. Hilde’s first 6
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Norway Northern Norway Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Svolvær- området Svolværgeita | ||||||||
5.10 5+ | ★★★ Forsida (Svolvaer Geita) | 120m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Di 19. Aug 2003 | ||||
Nice Jump
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5c 5+ | ★★★ Forsida | 120m | Do 5. Mai 1988 | |||||
Supernice
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5+ | ★★★ Forsida - mit Fanny | 120m | ★★★ Klassiker | Mo 6. Mai 2019 | ||||
Scenic, sunny & deluxe belay ledges. A great way to cruise up the goat
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5+ | ★★★ Forsida | 120m | ★★★ Klassiker | Fr 5. Aug 2016 | ||||
The most aestetically pleasing Line of this grade I ever climbed! The last tree pitches are simply magnificent, exposed, easy but not banal.
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6+ | ★★★ Englevinger - mit Sofie | 85m, 1 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | Di 25. Mai 2021 | ||||
There won´t be a line for this one but it´s 3 varied & high quality pitches. Deserves it´s Top50 guidebook tag
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6+ | ★★★ Englevinger | 85m, 1 | Fr 10. Jul 2015 | |||||
Trad
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6+ | ★★★ Englevinger | 85m, 1 | ★★ Sehr gut | So 20. Aug 2023 | ||||
Led P2 which was the crux. Missed a footer first time up. P3 has no real off width moves and was steep fun. The description and topo doesn’t make clear the down climb needed to get onto P3
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4+ | ★★ 1910 Ruta | 56m | Sa 15. Jul 1989 | |||||
OK. Airy finish
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4+ | ★★ 1910 Ruta | 56m | Do 11. Aug 2011 | |||||
6 people all got up in 2 rope teams!
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5 | ★★ Rapellruta | 48m | ★ Gut | So 28. Apr 2019 | ||||
w/ the Line's
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5 | ★★ Rapellruta - mit Stein Håkon Vatle | 48m | ★★ Sehr gut | Sa 25. Jul 2020 | ||||
Startet i regnvær, så alt var vått. Guiden satt topptau. Enkel grei rute med spektakulær utsikt. Skylaget og regnet forsvant og Lofoten åpenbarte seg fra toppen 😍
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5 | ★★ Rapellruta - mit Finn Linnett | 48m | ★ Gut | Mo 25. Jul 2022 | ||||
Juggy/flakey route, crack at the start was nice, average from there
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5 | ★★ Rapellruta - mit Kootz Koala | 48m | ★ Gut | Mo 25. Jul 2022 | ||||
Climbing wasn’t amazing but the view was…
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5 | ★★ Rapellruta | 48m | ★ Gut | So 20. Aug 2023 | ||||
Last climb, no one waiting to descend, bouldery start into grade 12 jug haul.
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Norway Northern Norway Nordland Lofoten Austvågøy Kabelvåg- området Finnvika | ||||||||
6b | ★★ Bormeister Fausa | 22m | ★★ Sehr gut | Mi 16. Aug 2023 | ||||
Really nice climbing as well, with a very funky hold.
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6a+ | ★★★ Drømmen om Michaela | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | Mi 16. Aug 2023 | ||||
Much easier when we got on the right route.
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6c/c+ | ★ Mono Bongo | 20m | ★ Gut | Mi 16. Aug 2023 | ||||
Climbing in the Watagans has made me so used to sandbagged slabs that I really didn’t question that I wasn’t on the 6 a+ we thought we were doing (non updated digital Rockfax) despite a hard move involving a mono and some tenuous footers. Did clip anchors of 6 a+ on the way because they are in reach before going to this routes anchors above. A little too close to the route to the right at the last bolt.
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5c | ★ Fjell og vidde klatring | 15m | ★ Gut | Mi 16. Aug 2023 | ||||
A late start after yesterdays rain, and watching the game ( sigh) saw us alone here clipping bolts. Beautiful setting, great featured slabs, good bolts, fresh raspberries on the walk in and easy parking that didn’t leave us grappling with yet another app- what’s not to like
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