Routen in Rumänien für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Line follows a series of hollows and the cracks uniting them.

Pitch 1: climb a chimney (no pro except 1 piton at the entrance) up to a grassy ledge with a bolted belay. 35m, 3+ UIAA

Pitch 2: slabby crack, belay in a large cave (1 bolt and 2 pitons). 40m, 4 UIAA

Pitch 3: gain the ledge right above the belay and head right on it, then follow the crack back above the belay. Bolt on the face to the left. Head up on an overhanging crack, leave it by traversing to the right at the top of the cave. Head up on easy terrain to the next cave, and the bolted belay. 25m, 6+ UIAA

Pitch 4: partially overlaps with Don Corleone. Start up and traverse to the right to a heavily pitoned crack you'll quickly abandon for easy slab (look for the bolt here). 10m above there's a belay from DC, then a crack that widens to a large funnel with a small ledge on top, above which are a bolt and a piton. DC heads right, we head left on a slab, then straight up on the protuberance until we reach another cave and bolted belay. 50m, 6- UIAA

Pitch 5: traverse left then head up on the crack (lots of pitons) and 10 more meters on easy ground to a grassy ledge and the final belay. 25m, 6/6+ UIAA

Protection: Reasonably well protected as far as Romanian adventure multipitch goes. Belays are at least partially on bolts, and there's the occasional bolt on-route in sensitive areas that aren't piton ladders. Counting the in situ pitons as bolts, there isn't any passage worse than S2. Some small to medium-sized pro can be useful, esp on p3.

Retreat: rap down back to Galbinele valley, or continue on the ledge to the second-to-last belay of Creasta Costila-Galbinele, and climb that then walk to Braul Mare al Costilei.

One of the easier ridge routes in Piatra Craiului. All natural belays (rock spikes/bushes). Mostly protected on mobiles and slings, although some of the harder moves take pitons.

Pitch 1 starts with an initial ~15m chimney, protected with 3 pitons - 1 on the right, near the start, 1 on the left (better ignored to minimize drag) and 1 again on the right, near the chimney exit (crux of the pitch). Continue on the ridge and sling a rock for a belay.

Pitch 2 continues on the ridge up to a 10m crack, protected with pitons (it takes mobiles as well) - this is the crux of the route. After it, traverse slightly to the left and follow another crack, this time with no fixed protection, to a patch of dwarf pines and some belay rocks after it.

Pitch 3 is an easy ridge traverse that at some point enters a gully. 70m long but with multiple intermediary belay opportunities if you want to avoid simulclimbing.

Pitch 4 is whatever was left out of pitch 3 and a final, relatively simple chimney (partially protected with pitons). Belay to the left of the chimney exit.

https://anghelmarian.wordpress.com/2009/08/12/catarare-in-muntii-vrancei/

Ridge after the bridge below the metal constructions next to the road. Protection is decent pitons, and bolts for the belays. The old piton belay for p2 is more comfortable but the pitons are iffy - sling the rock next to it (120cm) and extend the anchor to minimize drag. Can be done in a single pitch even on a 50m single. Retreat by rapping down the route or taking the retreat path from the via ferrata that crosses next to it.

This is the second route on the ridge, after the Pintenul Șerpilor. Name and grade are painted at the start of the route. The route is protected with pegs and bolts.

Descent: Continue on the ridge and hike up and left into the forest until you reach the tourist trail marked with blue dot which will take you back to the parking area.

3A Romanian 5+ UIAA

The first 2 pitches ar the same as for Creasta Porumbelului.

Originally 10 pitches, doable in 6 on 60m half-ropes. No fixed pro on the first 2 60m pitches (but they're grade 2 scramble anyway), occasional pitons on the next 4.

A nice line that's a little. bit harder than Tinu Ceave.