Routen als traditionell in Gloucestershire

Flake crack then slab right of the corner

Direct start to The Gates, past a peg.

Now bolted (2013) F6b

Nice route with meandering traverses.

Start 1m left of Rootin Toot. Climb steeply but on good holds to a small ledge and a large thread (not in-situ). Continue more easily on good rock, and finish at the big tree.

A swerving and sustained line on good rock and holds.

Location - Small Wall is reached by following the guide book description for Narcotic Corner & 'Suicide is Dangerous'. From the Beech tree in front of Suicide, descend 3 metres to the multi stemmed tree, then traverse left (facing out) until under Small Wall. 'One For Button' takes an independent line through the break in the overhang to the left of 'Under a Raging Moon' (see guidebook) Description - Start where the rock has been cleaned in the centre of the wall, then traverse slightly left and straight up through several horizontal breaks to the thread. Move up (good friend placement), before reaching for a good pocket. Pull through with a long reach to another small finger pocket directly above, then stretch out right (good friend) for a good hold(s). High step onto the upper wall for more good holds, protection and a rest. Climb the delightful technical wall above (peg) with a few difficult, thin moves and eventual slap to the ledge. (easier for those with a long reach). Abseil station now in place on the ledge. (A Second ascent awaits !! ) Additional info - Small Wall has been extensively cleaned, as has four of the existing routes in the guidebook. Three of these routes have also had their original threads replaced. 'Under a Raging Moon' (E2 5c) deserves a star. There is a second abseil station now in place for this route and the adjacent route 'Northerners Can't Climb' (E1 5b). 'Amoeba' (E1 5a) and 'Tiswas' (HS 4b) have been cleaned and compliment the other 3 routes.

The only sensible access to this route and others on Small Wall now are via the Guide books description to Narcotic corner and Suicide is dangerous. The climb and its neighbours have been extensively cleaned, in-situ threads have been replaced and an Abseil station installed on the ledge above instead of using the tree. From the Beech tree in front of Suicide, walk 3 metres down the bank to a multi stemmed tree, traverse left (facing out) round the tree until under Small Wall. Use the Guide book from here. A great little route and a gem of a little crag now it has been cleaned.

Follows the wide earthy corner to the right of 'Northerners can't climb', then up a steep wall with a tricky mantel to finish.

Small Wall - An existing route with original peg and new tat. Climbs the right face of Tiswas (HS 4b) to the upper break, then finishes up that route. The route compliments the other three E grade routes at the crag, now it has been cleaned.

The route is located on the 'Original Sector' of the Great Wall and is currently in the Lower Wye Valley guide book. The first pitch (5c) has now been extensively cleaned, the lower thread has been replaced and the pegs check out ok. The second pitch (5c) needed little cleaning. The route offers some very fine climbing, a little bold in places and certainly deserved to be recovered from the undergrowth.

A variation on John's Route on the second pitch.

Pitch 2 - 45m, from the second overhang trend rightwards (rather than going left) to some vegetated ledges. Follow the shorter hard wall to easier ground and some cool quartz holds. Continue on to an overgrown top out. Difficult to find a good belay, maybe a couple of rotten tree roots or the stone wall, or risk the traffic on the road?!

Just left of the bottom of The Easy Way Down is a heavily shaded wall. The wall left of the disjointed square-cut grooves has a bouldery start and easier but bold climbing above.

Start at the disjointed square-cut grooves. A good pitch with some committing moves to link the initial grooves.

The blunt borehole rib between Paul's Wall and Grey Wall. Independent climbing but runners are easily placed in adjacent routes. Add a grade for a blinkered solo

The left side of the arete with gear midway is a good-looking line but little-travelled and a bit grubby at the start.

Like its near neighbour, there is lots of entertainment to be had on this route including some tough but avoidable moves on the third pitch and a fine arete on the fourth. Start at a corner 5m down and right of the beginning of The Easy Way Down.

1. 10m. Climb the slightly earthy corner to ledges (on The Easy Way Down) and belay at a tree.

2. 18m. Just to the right is a short rectangular section of rock, above which is a wide crack. Gain the wall right of the crack and climb it boldly to a ledge above the wide crack. Head up right of a tree to a corner and take this to a huge flat ledge. Walk right to belay at a 3m well-defined hand-crack.

3. 4a, 10m. Nip up the hand-crack and then move over to below a short well-scratched finger-crack. Climb the crack - hard - and then easy ground to belay below a short slab just right of a tree.

4. 18m. Climb the short slab and move up to under the blocky arete of the buttress above. The arete, started on its right-hand side, is excellent. Belay on good ledges above.

5. 12m. The crack-line up the final buttress gives a fine finish. Belay at the very top of the crag on flat ledges.

This is the popular first pitch of an old multi-pitch climb. Above the first pitch, much of the rock is vegetated and not described here. Start at a clean area of rock 15m down and right of The Easy Way Down. Climb the easiest line, passing the overhangs on the right, to a block on a large flat ledge. The break in the short wall above gains the ledge of The Easy Way Down and a tree belay.

Another popular first pitch of a multi-pitch climb. Much of the rock above the first pitch is vegetated and not described here. Start on the far left side of the Black Wall and climb the easiest line past the right end of a ledge with a block on it to meet the ledge of the Easy Way Down and various belay options.

The Severe finish to the 'Direct Route' on the third pitch. Climb the steep wall behind the belay for 15m.

A small rockfall has left some loose rock low down. Start 1m left of the thin crack of Black Wall. Climb direct past some dubious rock to a thread just right of a sapling. Finish up the wall above in common with Black Wall.

Start as for Black Wall. At 4 meters start a traverse to the right. Gain the pedestal then move diagnonally rightwards using wires to secure the bolts. Finish on the Boardwalk.

08/05/2016 - It has been report that the upper thread is no long viable due to the rock failing after a fall. Take care on future ascents and back up the other left-hand side thread!

A sting in the tail. Climb directly up the wall behind the right ash to the prominent bulge (in situ thread just below). Pull round slightly rightwards to reach easier ground and then The Broadwalk. Tree belay above. Less adrenalin flows for an easier finish (HVS 5a, and just independent of Black Wall) from the thread up the left-hand side of the bulge.

Black Wall Area, right of Save Me from Tomorrow. Climb the right side of the slim wall right of the corner, with occasional use of holds round the blunt arete, to a small, bushy tree. Step right above the tree and climb up with some difficulty past two flattened bolts to the terrace. The bolts can be threaded, which is just as well, as there's no other gear. Not sure if this route will be welcomed/allowed. Parts of it certainly climbed before. Form an orderly queue with complaints!

From the Broadwalk climb the short corner immediatly left of the third silver birch from the right. Ascend as direct as possible over ledges and short walls to Terry's Wall

On Terry's Wall. A direct line between Terry's left hand and right hand finishes. Worthwhile.

On the right side of Terry's Wall. From the belay ledge, mount blocky ledges on the right, move onto the wall, and climb cracks 1-2 metres right of Terry's Gone Crackers to a grassy ledge (with holly) on the right. Move up and stride left; then climb directly to some projecting holds near the top. Exit leftwards to avoid clifftop looseness.

Climb the rib and borehole strike to a single bolt, from where moves on the left gain a long run-out to a lower-off.

Start almost as for Yesterday's Dreams but try to stay to the right to the break. Traverse right onto a foot ledge then make a tricky and bold couple of moves up and then left to a big jug and bolt. Climb the groove, then pull left under a triangular roof. Climb up and right onto the arete which is followed past a stretch left to clip "Yesterday's " bolt and an in-situ thread to the bolt belay on Yesterday's Dreams

5b,4b,4b,5b.

6a,5c.

5a,4c. Loose and vegetated.

Recently been cleaned - nice interesting climb. 5b,5b.

4c,4c,5a.

A traditional expedition starting up Simplex, taking in The Tap and finishing up Bacchanalian. Described in the 1977 and 1987 guidebooks, it was subsequently split into the three routes comprising it and omitted in the 1997 and 2007 publications.

A reasonable way of reaching the Central Ledge - where the routes on the upper section of wall begin. Can be a bit grassy in the crack. Start 9m right of a plaque and just left of a tall tree growing next to the crag. Move up an open groove and then traverse right to below a crack. Climb the crack past a peg on the left to the Central Ledge.

A block has fallen off the middle of this climb (see 1997 guidebook photo).

RH of two bolt lines in the centre of the lower tier of North Wall. Needs a rock 1 or similar near the top.

The North Wall

Start from the right hand peg belay on the terrace. Climb a corner and step left onto a block at its top. Then climb a shallow groove, pull over the small roof at its top and go diagonally right and up over easier broken ground. Two pegs mark the belay of wrong tap. Climb wrong tap to the very poor crux peg, then foot traverse left until beneath the steep grey wall. Step up and clip the peg, then make thin moves (crux) up the wall to ledges. Climb up off the right hand ledge (no more gear) and climb up to the top.

Good moves on excellent rock, but both neighbours are compromised by it's proximity and pegs. Continue direct past the first peg runner and up the wall past three more. Minor variants in line and difficulty are possible.

Starts at the bottom of the prominent corner towards the left hand end of terrace - behind tree. 4a - Climb Corner to ledge, climb wall on good feet at R end of ledge to tree belay. 4b - Climb straight up over overhang and another 10' until holds run out. Diagonally left now to nose and up to twin bolt lower off

50ft 4c, 70ft 4c

5b,4c

Two contrasting pitches that combine to give a sustained and complex line up the walls left of the edge of the North Wall. Described here with the direct variation on pitch one. Start at a clear patch of rock 5m left of the corner of The Angel's Eye.

1. 5c, 25m. Move up left onto a ledge and peg. Climb the tricky wall above to another peg and transfer left to a groove and cracks in orange-stained rock. Move up to the overhang and pull over (peg) and up the short wall to a good ledge. Traverse left along the ledge to a belay below a block.

2. 5c, 32m. From the top of the block, go right and back left to the base of a flared rib. Follow the thin and technical rib, past a peg, to better holds. Move up and then head for a short crack on the right that leads to easier ground and The Great Ledge.

Direct through the overhangs on Big brother.