Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | Kletterer | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
So 30. Jun 2024 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (fat man wall) | |||||||
5.7 | Fat Man | 9m, 4 | Durchschnitt | ||||
first move crux cause it was SOAKED
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Sa 29. Jun 2024 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Crowd Pleaser | 9 | Durchschnitt | ||||
wet first pitch
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Sa 29. Jun 2024 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.8 ~5.9 | ★★ Metamorphosis | ★★ Sehr gut | |||||
gorgeous view and some mentally scary exposed sections
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Fr 24. Mai 2024 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Underdog - mit Samuel Beauregard-Tousignan, Lea | 20m, 9 | |||||
The crux is not where it would seem from the ground and it is very easy to end up pulling WAY harder moves... Very different than typical Rumney climb because of the rock.
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Fr 24. Mai 2024 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Scene of the Crime - mit Lea, Samuel Beauregard-Tousignan | 15m, 5 | |||||
This is one where I was happy to have brought the stick clip. First bolt is a little high and above tricky moves over exposed ground.
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5.8 | ★★ Metamorphosis - mit Lea, Samuel Beauregard-Tousignan | ||||||
Very fun and well bolted!
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5.10b | ★★★ Armed, Dangerous and Off My Medication - mit Lea, Samuel Beauregard-Tousignan | 25m, 10 | |||||
Short climber may have a tough time entering the overhang.
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5.11c ~5.11a | ★★ Cereal Killer - mit Lea, Samuel Beauregard-Tousignan | 24m, 8 | |||||
Got a little bit of beta for the opening sequence which I didn't find too bad. Good belayer required. Thought the crux was the exit of the second roof. Easier but slightly runout afterwards.
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Di 17. Okt 2023 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | |||||||
5.7 | ★★ Crowd Pleaser - mit DavidV | 9 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Première longueur seulement.
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Sa 30. Sep 2023 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | |||||||
5.7 | Crack Addict - mit Kate Pechenkina, Jasson | 9 | |||||
preplaced draws
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So 3. Sep 2023 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | |||||||
5.9 |
Charity Toad P2
- mit
Kate Pechenkina, Jasson, Yarrow
2
| ||||||
Is this how I log the traverse from Magic Haze P1 to White Toad P3?
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5.8 | ★ Charity Case - mit Kate Pechenkina, Jasson | 8 | |||||
Tied in, made one move, and then retreated to bathroom. 😫😫😫😫
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5.10b | Magic Helmet - mit Kate Pechenkina, Jasson | 5 | |||||
Many attempts, no reach top
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5.7 | Magic Daze - mit Kate Pechenkina, Jasson | 27m, 9 | |||||
Kate led P1 to ledge, then I traversed right to lead P3 of White Toad, making this "Magic Toad"?
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Sa 2. Sep 2023 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Sweet Polly Purebred — 2 Versuche | ★ Gut | |||||
Very hard to read lol
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5.12a | ★ Peanut Man — 2 Versuche | 9 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
2nd go
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Mo 22. Mai 2023 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Arugula, Arugula | ||||||
Failed to pull the roof. Again.
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5.8 | ★★ Metamorphosis | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
Would be nice to have one more bolt at the start, otherwise, still a classic.
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5.8 | Anchovie Caper | 6 | ★ Gut | ||||
Was wet in places, so finished on the last two bolts of the 10b to the right. Might actually be a more interesting variation than the regular finish, but wants a couple long draws to prevent rope drag.
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5.7 | Half Nelson | Vergiss es | |||||
Still very sharp.
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5.6 | ★ Rainbow | 7 | ★ Gut | ||||
Steep for a 5.6
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Mo 22. Mai 2023 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | |||||||
5.7 |
★ Tipping Point P1
- mit
David Gibbs
1
5.7
| 11 | Durchschnitt | ||||
A hard step up to a fun ramble.
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Mo 22. Mai 2023 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Gold Digger - mit David Gibbs | 8 | ★ Gut | ||||
Some fun moves. Too bad it starts with a long scramble.
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Mo 22. Mai 2023 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.10a schwer | ★ Arugula, Arugula - mit David Gibbs | ★ Gut | |||||
Didn't have enough strength for it today. Feeling the two prior days of climbing.
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5.8 | ★★ Metamorphosis - mit David Gibbs | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||||
Amazing route. Bolting is on the exciting side.
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5.8 | Anchovie Caper - mit David Gibbs | 6 | ★ Gut | ||||
Was a bit wet, so we had to make some tricky moves in the upper section.
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5.9 | ★ Men in White Suits - mit David Gibbs | 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Steep juggy fun. Just had enough juice left for it.
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Sa 15. Okt 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Metamorphosis | ||||||
fabulous 5.8, unfortunately a little wet at the top this time
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Sa 15. Okt 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Underdog | 20m, 9 | |||||
not my favorite. decent movement, but wanders a bit and is over chalked and polished.
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Sa 15. Okt 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | |||||||
5.10b | ★★ Stairway to Heaven | 24m, 12 | |||||
awesome climb. variety of movement (including some cracks!) leading to sweet climbing on the face at the top of the wall.
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Sa 15. Okt 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Millenium Falcon | 14 | |||||
one of my favorites at rumney so far. top half has wonderful climbing. fell at first crux, rest of the route clean. still unsure what the intended sequence is... step high with the left side pull into a right hand gaston? crimp really hard up the middle?
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Sa 15. Okt 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Seasame Street (Sesame Street) | ||||||
awesome variety of movement, and great view at the top
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Mi 12. Okt 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Armed, Dangerous and Off My Medication (Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication) | 25m, 10 | |||||
varied movement, interesting moves
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So 21. Aug 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Men in White Suits - mit Kate, Fran, Yarrow | 5 | |||||
"This is hard for a 5.6." Gunks App showed Rainbow going up face of overhang, and route under it was too easy, so thought this must be Rainbow. Nope. Downclimbed to rest a few times but got it clean.
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5.5 5.6 | ★ Rainbow - mit Kate | 7 | |||||
Cool climb, but easier than 5.6. Neat holds. Goes under overhang, not up face of overhang (Gunks App topo is wrong)
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5.8 | Anchovie Caper | 6 | |||||
Clean lead. Kind of sketch going over bulge.
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5.9 | Bonnie and Clyde | 15m, 4 | |||||
Many attempts on starting moves but couldn't do it. Looked really hard even for our best climber
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Sa 11. Jun 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.10b | ★★★ Armed, Dangerous and Off My Medication | 25m, 10 | |||||
TR. Attempt Only. Struggled to make it to the first bolt.
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5.8 | ★★ Metamorphosis | ||||||
Crux for me was at the second bulge. Took almost 45 min. Needt to reclimb a part of it to re-clip alpine draw to the climber-side rope while lowering.
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Sa 26. Mär 2022 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.10a | ★ Arugula, Arugula | ★ Gut | |||||
Initial roof is very fun. Don't hesitate, just go for it. The slab above is less sustained but still interesting.
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So 24. Okt 2021 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Millenium Falcon | 14 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Come back for this. Has everything - dead point, finger jams, hand jams, mantles
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5.10a | ★★★ Underdog | 20m, 9 | |||||
1 hang
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5.10d | ★★ Goldbug | ★★ Sehr gut | |||||
#1 of the day
In retrospect my beta at the crux was suboptimal, but it worked. Used one of the lower gastons to go to a high crimp with right hand. Might have been better to use a higher gaston with left and right on arete. |
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5.10c | ★★ Sweet Polly Purebred | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
Much weirdness at the crux. Would do again.
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So 25. Okt 2020 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.14a | Rocket Fuel | 37m | |||||
Had to pioneer some horrendous shortie beta to make the transition into Rocket Man. Definitely worth it to climb to the summit if you're sending!
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So 2. Aug 2020 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.11a | ★★ Know Ethics | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
balance move in the middle. I matched my hands then moved to the left edge.
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Sa 2. Nov 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | |||||||
5.12d | ★★★ Get It On - mit Beatrice, Brandon | 5 | |||||
4th go, got caught in the rope with the long draw extended even further the two times before.
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So 20. Okt 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.11d 5.12a | ★ Peanut Man - mit Brandon | 9 | |||||
Need to figure out different beta for that gaston move.
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Mo 14. Okt 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | |||||||
5.8 |
★★ Crowd Pleaser (Crowd Pleaser P1)
- mit
Jesse T.
1
5.7
Vorstieg durch
Jesse T.
| 9 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Huge shoutout to the guy who suggested this linkup with 'Tipping Point'. The first pitch was meh. But the second pitch was a little bit of everything and the view at the top was awesome!
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Mo 14. Okt 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Toxic Gumbo | 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Had to squeeze one more climb in before leaving Rumney.
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Mo 14. Okt 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Millenium Falcon | 14 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Managed to get it done in 6 parsecs.
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5.10a | ★★★ Underdog | 20m, 9 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Almost lost it due to a mix up down low, but was able to pull it together to make it up clean.
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So 13. Okt 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Men in White Suits - mit Andy Gnarr | 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
My weak slab climber arms couldn't hold me, a theme of this weekend.
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5.10b | ★ Fish Corner - mit Andy Gnarr | 14m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
The first move is hard, then the rest has a few fun moves
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5.9 | ★ Green Mile - mit Andy Gnarr | ★★ Sehr gut | |||||
I was tired and hungry, and the route needed to be cleaned before I could go to lunch
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5.9 | ★ Men in White Suits | 5 | ★ Gut | ||||
Sustained overhanging jug haul!
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5.10b | ★ Fish Corner | 14m | ★ Gut | ||||
Fun little boulder problem at the start, but mellow climbing above to the anchor.
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5.9 | ★ Green Mile | ★ Gut | |||||
Low crux to the first bolt, would recommend a stick clip if you aren't comfortable leading 5.9.
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Sa 28. Sep 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.10a | ★★★ Underdog | 20m, 9 | |||||
failed a lot on top rope and then it started raining and I bailed
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5.8 | ★ Gold Digger | 8 | |||||
fell twice, got to top. traverse around arete was super scary
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5.9 | ★★ Rock Du Jours | ||||||
scary but no falls, 3 people caterpillar first pitch then 2 people top rope second
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So 9. Jun 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Toxic Gumbo | 10 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Great and beautiful climb! Last move was the crux for me!
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Sa 8. Jun 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Metamorphosis | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
Beautiful climb!!
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Fr 7. Jun 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Gold Digger | 8 | |||||
Went up twice, couldn’t commit to the end otherwise beautiful climb
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Mo 3. Jun 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Metamorphosis | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||||
One of the best 5.8 sport routes I have climbed! Very long (use a 70m rope to be sure), sustained and varied in movement.
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5.7 | ★★ The Big Easy | 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Fun. Only did the first pitch. Accidentally went on the Bourbon Street (5.10c) for second pitch. Bailed off of that.
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5.10b | ★★★ Armed, Dangerous and Off My Medication - mit Cynthia Kett, Alex Norris | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | ||||
An excellent overhanging route with some variety of movement Start with a couple of delicate moves until you meet a roof. Use the pinchy undercling to pull over and dance your way up some slab until you meet an overhanging headwall. Collect yourself and then proceed up the overhung, power-endurance finish on gigantic holds.
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So 2. Jun 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | |||||||
5.7 | Crack Addict | 9 | ★ Gut | ||||
Fun, but was really wet. Had to take before pulling out of the dihedral.
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5.6 | ★ Model Citizen - mit Debby Chiu | 9 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Really fun sport multipitch. First pitch is vertical. Belay from a small nook after you top out. 2nd pitch is super easy slab to an anchor below a big ledge. Rap station should use rings instead of those sketchy weird J hooks.
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5.10a | ★★ Crowd Pleaser | 9 | Durchschnitt | ||||
Way harder than a 5.7. I got spooked by the spinning, rusted 3rd bolt and downclimbed.
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5.8 |
★ Tipping Point (Tipping Point P1)
| 11 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Only did the first pitch. Fun slab climbing. 70m rope recommended
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Sa 18. Mai 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.9 | ★ Green Mile | ★★ Sehr gut | |||||
Thoguht this was 5.8 -- so kept describing as a hard 5.8... turns out it is 5.9! Was worried after seeing Phil have difficulty in the upper section -- but went smoothly for me.
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5.10a | ★ Scene of the Crime | 15m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
I found the steep lower section very pumpy -- managed to pull through, but took a good long rest on the ledge once I got there. No problem with the technical/thin finish.
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5.8 | ★★ Metamorphosis | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
I'm not+ sure any move on this is 5.8 -- but it is an unrelenting series of 5.7/5.7+ moves for about 25m after the initial slab is finished.
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5.7 |
★★ The Big Easy (The Big Easy P1)
1
5.7
| 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Lots of fun -- and surprisingly steep in places, for a 5.7, but with huge jugs to make it 5.7.
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Sa 18. Mai 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (fat man wall) | |||||||
5.5 | ★ Super-Size Me | 9m, 5 | |||||
Putting up an easy climb for Rachel.
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Sa 18. Mai 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.8 | ★ Gold Digger | 8 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
I really enjoyed this one -- varied and interesting climbing.
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5.9 |
★★ Rock Du Jours (Rock Du Jours P1)
1
5.9
| ★ Gut | |||||
Upper pitch was closed (raptors). First pitch seems a bit easier than 5.9 -- perhaps 5.7+ or maybe 5.8. Decent, but not great, climbing.
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Sa 18. Mai 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | |||||||
5.7 |
★★ Crowd Pleaser (Crowd Pleaser P1)
1
5.7
| 9 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Only P1 as the upper section of Main Cliff was closed due to raptor nesting.
|
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5.7 |
★ Tipping Point (Tipping Point P1)
1
5.7
| 11 | ★ Gut | ||||
Only P1 as the upper section of Main Cliff was closed due to raptor nesting.
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5.7 | Crack Addict | 9 | Durchschnitt | ||||
The crack was dripping wet -- but the rock had enough texture that it still climbed just fine.
Once done the opening section, rest of the slab is a bit dull. |
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5.6 |
★ Model Citizen (Model Citizen P1)
1
5.6
| 9 | ★ Gut | ||||
Only P1 as the upper section of Main Cliff was closed due to raptor nesting.
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Mo 29. Apr 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.11d 5.12a | ★ Peanut Man - mit Cameron | 9 | |||||
Gaston move felt hard and low percent, fell there two times.
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Mo 8. Apr 2019 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | |||||||
5.12a | ★ Get A Grip - mit Paul | 5 | |||||
Second go. Soft.
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Mo 27. Aug 2018 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.9 5.8 | ★ Gold Digger | 8 | |||||
Pratiquement aucun pied pendant le crux. Épeurant!
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Sa 25. Aug 2018 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.9 5.8 | ★ Gold Digger | 8 | |||||
J'ai pas réussi à passer le crux. Je manquais de reach.
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So 29. Jul 2018 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.11c | ★★ Cereal Killer | 24m, 8 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
highest flash so far
|
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Fr 20. Jul 2018 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Main Cliff Right | |||||||
5.9 | ★★ Toady Dreams | ★ Gut | |||||
Climbed the 5.9 variant -- but with extra traversing and leaning to unclip draws.
|
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5.7 | ★★ Crowd Pleaser | 9 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Lead P1, followed P2.
Fun climbing. A lovely wiggly quartz vein shows up on P2. |
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5.7 |
★ Tipping Point (Tipping Point P1)
1
5.7
| 11 | ★ Gut | ||||
First pitch (labelled as crux) is nowhere near the book grade of 5.8. Maybe, barely, 5.7.
|
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Fr 20. Jul 2018 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Metamorphosis | ★ Gut | |||||
Fun climbing, but seemed very soft for 5.8.
|
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5.7 |
★★ The Big Easy (The Big Easy P1)
1
5.7
| 10 | ★ Gut | ||||
Physical for a 5.7, but fun.
|
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5.8 | ★★ Toxic Gumbo | 10 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Got a sequence wrong, and couldn't recover.
|
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5.10a | ★ Arugula, Arugula | ||||||
Didn't want to burn myself out trying to pull the roof. Not my style at all.
|
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Fr 20. Jul 2018 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Venus Wall | |||||||
5.3 | ★★ The Wimpy-Gilman Ridge | 8 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Still fun, still haven't lead it.
|
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Fr 6. Jul 2018 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Center Right (iron man wall) | |||||||
5.10c | ★★★ Millenium Falcon | 14 | |||||
needed beta at block ledge after big block was wet. 3 takes was cruising
|
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5.10a | ★★★ Underdog | 20m, 9 | |||||
fell at crux due to wet shoes
|
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5.10c | ★★ Sweet Polly Purebred | ||||||
would've been onsight. drag killed me
|
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Fr 6. Jul 2018 - Rumney | |||||||
Main Cliff Armed and Dangerous | |||||||
5.10c | ★★ Seasame Street (Sesame Street) | ||||||
felt like the easiest climb so far today
|
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5.10d | ★★ Clusterphobia | ||||||
approx 6 takes had trouble pulling roof
|