Routes in Africa for selected grade

Climbed on top rope only.

Climbed on top rope only.

Climbed on top rope only.

The first small outcrop. Seated start on right side. Move up and left, finishing left of the top.

Same start as 1. Traverse left to easy ground.

Left of 1 and 2. Start on the right end of the bigger cliff on low, big jugs. Move straight up, mantling the lip at the top.

Around the left of the main cave are some low jugs. Seated start as low and left as possible. Traverse right, then up and around the corner, finishing standing in the cave.

great finger crack on pitch 2!

2 pitch route up a dihedral. Bolted with old aluminium caving bolts! Probably best avoided until re-bolted. The location of the route in the existing guidebook is wrong, it's one dihedral further right.

Pitch 1 - Grade 22/23 for the short. Hard and slightly runout friction slab climbing. Harder than the Rhino Horn. 55m. Pitch 2 - Grade 17, amazing climbing up the dyke. 55m.

Amazing climbing on great rock with perfect positive crimps. Well bolted. Pitch 1 - 21/22 for shorties. Amazing climbing on good crimps and great rock. 50m. Pitch 2 - 16. More excellent climbing at a less steep angle.

Friction climbing, super small grips, to get to the ledge and some more friction climbing with the crux move of the route, with a nice hold for your right hand a tiny crimp for your left hand.

Great friction climb, tight on fingers, bring your fingers with an extra thick skin layer.

Start just to the left of lightning bird, a boulder problem to the ledge, rap off the tree.

open project through the roof, estimation 23 to confirm

Start just to the left of the bushes to the left of the start of BDND. Notes: The pitches are longer than 30m so to escape off the climb you have to do the following: For pitches 1 and 3 – traverse right into BDND. For pitch 2 Abseil diagonally down right onto the big ledge of BDND.

This 140m route follows the most prominent feature (large scar in the face) on the left hand side of the main wall of the dome. This was the first route opened at Wellingtons Dome and the bottom half was initially opened on trad. Start just to the right of a bush at the base of the dome below the large prominent recess.

Start to the far right off a ramp with a Smart Car sized block on it. Note: There is an Black Eagles nest near the climb so avoid the climb in winter months.

Start just to the left of Eye Of Osiris and go up black rock just to the left of a large flake.

The line of bolts following the off-width crack is Scorpion. The bolt line to the left of the crack is direct start. Variation pitch is a grade 23.

1. 19, 20m 10 bolts. Belay on big ledge

2. 16, 30m 5or6 bolts. Belay in big scoop

3. 10, 35m 2 bolts. Top out(Climb for the view)

1. ** 23, 22m Starts to the left of the elephant's trunk. On balance, small holds on a relatively smooth surface. Crux 1/3 of the way up, then straight forward to the top

2. ** 19, 23m Start right to avoid loose slab, then left under the boulder, continue left over dassie shit - worst section on this climb

3. * 18, 23m Starts from a small cave through which on can see under the elephant to the other side of the rock face. Route moves over to the left past the elephant's ear.

4. * 17, 22m Route moves directly up to just short of the top.

5. ** 15, 10m Short easy finish.

Micro’s are useful for this climb, especially the top half of the second pitch. Protection is good.

Scramble up to the start of BAPM. On the orange face up and to the left of the candleflame is a bolt. Start 5m to the left of BAPM, below the obvious corner.

1. 35m 22R: Climb the corner to a small ledge. Traverse the orange face past the difficult-to-clip bolt (tricky), to the right arête. Climb straight up past another bolt to an overhang. Pull strenuously through the overhang on the right and diagonally up the ramp to the right in the groove above. Climb easily to a tree belay. Scramble to the base of BAPM's second pitch.

2. 22m 21 Climb the crack just to the left of BAPM until it peters out. Continue to the right and up past a bolt. Take care over the huge blocks and lichen and finish as for BAPM.

Notes:

1. There are rap bolts at the top. Need replacement leaver biners or maillons. One 60m rap puts you back on the ledge at the start of the route from where its straightforward to scramble down.

This bolted pitch is on the slabish wall just outside and on the true right of the gully that marks the start of the maze descent route. From the top of the maze, walk up the grassy slopes to the wall.

1. 25m 23 Join the dots. Finish up and right after the last dot to belay under the roof.

Notes:

1. This route has no chains. Friend 1.5 and Rock 8 required for the top.

2. The bolts are old and should be clipped with caution.

Descent: Scramble off rightwards into the gully.

Climbs the obvious stepped corner system on the east face of the south Donjon. The route starts up a corner left of a 6m high pillar next to the rock face.

1. 43m 19 Climb the corner exiting left and up to the ledge on top of some flakes.

2. 38m 17 up the front of the pillar for a few metres then into corner on the right and up to traverse line. Traverse right and up to ledge beneath roofs.

3. 41m 22 Climb up corner/peapod/groove/chimney above to a stance below large roof (Originally climbed as 2 pitches (20A1 and 19A1) with a hanging belay).

4. 40m 20 Traverse right under roof and climb corner/chimney above to ledge on arête. (Originally 2 pitches, 19A1 and 19).

5. 40m 18 Climb the corner past a tree to a bushy ledge. Climb diagonally left up lichen-covered face to belay in gully.

Scramble rightwards up the gully then walk right along the ledge to another gully which is followed to the top.

Start from the stance at the end of THE JOURNEY.

1. 23 Break through the right hand edge of the roof. Climb to the chains above.

Start as for LOST TRIBE (about 10m right of the central break).

1. 40m 23 Follow LOST TRIBE for a few metres until it veers off left. Continue up the layback crack until it ends. Traverse right and up to gain a recess leading to easy ground which is followed to a ledge.

2. 40m 20 Climb up leftwards and pull through the roof at a crack. Continue left and up to gain LOST TRIBE's long hand crack/recess. Climb the crack and exit left to belay on a long narrow ledge (LOST TRIBE moves right slightly lower down).

Where to now? Either rap off, traverse right and scramble as for LOST TRIBE, or traverse left for about 25m and climb LOOK SHARP 's flake. Alternatively, the brave may traverse further left to gain an interesting recess which leads to slabs, ledges, corridors and pillars.

Notes:

1. The first ascentionists took the last option described above to top out. Only the VERY brave should try it.

Start 5m right of LOST TRIBE. Scramble 5m.

1. Climb crack and climb past bolt and good RP 4 to block. Climb wall above to large ledge.

Notes:

1. The bolt is probably dubious by now. It was placed by Mr Cockburn after all.

Start 5m right of LOST TRIBE. Scramble 5m and belay on the right end of the ledge.

1. Climb past bolt to a good RP 4. Climb the wall and corner to large ledge.

Notes:

1. The bolt is probably dubious by now.

Start 90m left of SKIN THE CAT. A long roof can be seen 70m up. Start directly below the notch in the roof. Scramble 12m up LHS of pillar to a ledge.

1. 50m 19 Up flake on right for 8m. Move left on to face, up tree roots to tree. Up groove (becomes a flake) then up wall. Traverse right to ledge, up, back left into corner and up the ledge.

2. 35m 19 Up to next ledge, then up right to pull through right hand V-notch. Up to grass ledge. Walk 30m right and up to under steep cave and scramble up. (25m left of SKIN THE CAT).

3. 35m 21 Move up about 5m left of corner and move through roofs at their smallest. Diagonally up rightwards to crack, up this, then left to ledge.

4. 25m 20 Up to cubby hole under roof. Pull through and up right to ledge.

5. 35m 20 Up and diagonally left across slab to below steep gnarly rock. Pull through and up to stance at base of chimney.

6. 40m 22 Delicate Slab Pitch: Up chimney and out onto wall above. Up crack system straight up to ledge. Traverse 12m right to base of corner behind tree.

7. 50m 18 Up corner/crack, move left onto arête at top, follow nose straight to top. Scramble to the top.

Start location as for HALFMOON.

1. 40m 21 Climb up the steep red face immediately left of HALFMOON’s corner/crack, and move out right above the 2nd roof onto a ledge. Climb diagonally left to a stance (stance common with HALFMOON).

2. 40m 18 Climb up to the roof, then traverse left until able to climb straight up steep rock to a ledge on top of a pillar (stance common with HALFMOON).

3. 40m 14 Traverse 5m right then climb straight up to a large ledge. Belay in the cave 5m left of the corner.

4. 40m 19 Pull through on the left-hand side of the cave, and climb up to a ledge. Move left and climb the thin corner, moving out left under roofs to a good ledge.

5. 40m 20 Move up 3m to a rail and traverse left to move up to a small ledge at the left extremity of the roofs above. Move right on the lip for 2m and up a small corner to a large horizontal break. Traverse 20m left to a ledge with a block.

6. 50m 22 Up to a short corner, up this (5m) then traverse 5m left to a thin crack. Up the crack to a long rail. Move left 4m and up the face for 6m to a horizontal break. Up the steep face/crack system to a corner, up to the top of this, moving out right and up to a tree.

7. 45m 16 Past the tree following the obvious line to the top of the pillar.

8. 40m 14 Up the face on the right, then diagonally left to a chimney. Up the chimney to a ledge.

9. 60m Roped scrambling to the top.

Between HALFMOON and HEY JUDE, there is a 50m long roof at 70m height. In the middle of the roof are two large flake lines. Below the right-hand one, on a ledge about 10m off the normal ground level, is a pillar with a chimney-sized gap behind it. Start at the base of the right hand side of the pillar.

1. 45m 20. Climb right hand side of pillar. Continue up flake line until first roof is reached. Move left to a break, and continue up to narrow ledge, directly above pillar, and about 8m below main roof.

2. 30m A2. Great Roof Pitch. Thrash through hanging gardens up and left from stance (the swath of clear-cut from FA is likely to have re-grown). Move left at roof, then out along flake. At piton, move left for two moves onto drilled bat hook hole Move up through overlap to reach rail, then right onto ledge with poor peg belay.

3. 40m 16. Move right into corner, then up and left to a grassy ledge, belaying off a tree. Awesome bivy to right of tree on cleared ledge below some low roofs (blackened corner). Next pitch starts from left end of these roofs, as for PROJECT THREE. The Grassy Ledge can be reached by walking right.

4. 30m 20. (As for PROJECT THREE) Pull through initial overhang at chest height, move right, then follow corner to next roof. Move left, then up to stance on small ledge 10m left of peg on HEY JUDE.

5. 35m 20 (As for PROJECT THREE) Clamber up blocks forming right hand side of stance. Follow intermittent crack above, stepping left when holds run out, then right again 2m higher. Continue up to stance on right end of Jungle Ledge.

6. 50m 22A2+. Move up and right from stance, with very technical climbing leading to left-facing corner 15m right of HALFMOON’s chimney. When free climbing becomes untenable, start aiding. Beyond the roof, technically easy but exciting aid leads up and left of overhang, then up again on slabs until a stance can be made just below the right-leaning cracks.

7. 40m 22 (19A1) Step left from the stance to gain the long right-leaning crack. Follow this until the crack splits. The right-hand line becomes a frightening offwidth through a huge roof. Follow the left-hand line around the roof with two points of aid, then right into a gully (as for SCATTERLINGS).

8. 15m 15. Continue up through trees until the Disco Ledge Bivi is reached (a flattopped pillar about the area of a small car, with a small cave/fissure behind).

9. 5m 15. Leave the Disco Ledge via the crack that the gully has narrowed to.

10. 100m. Contribute to deforestation on your way to the top.

Notes:

1. Special equipment. Two hooks suitable for small edges, two standard hooks, one hook for 5mm wide, 8mm deep holes. Aiders (etriers) are useful. A handbolting kit is recommended to beef-up the second stance with two bolts. A double or triple rack of small wires is useful for pitch 6.

2. Free notes. Pitch 2 can probably be mostly freed at grades that someone you know can climb. Pitch 6 would be bold, but most moves should be doable free.

3. Pitch 7 sounds suspiciously like the crux of SCATTERLINGS (22)?

A 50m long roof is situated about 70m up, between HALF MOON and HEY JUDE. SCATTERLNGS climbs up about 10m to the right of the right hand end of the roof. Directly below this point, scramble up 2m to the base of a short square recess. This point is about 15m left of HEY JUDE’s start.

1. 40m 18 Straight up a blocky rock, past wide ledge and small tree to base of crack system running up scooped face. Climb crack and corner then traverse 4m left to ledge on arête. 10m up to the right is obvious small nose-like roof.

2. 35m 21 Climb right and up to a rail which extends rightwards 4m below nose. Rail right, about 3m past the nose, then climb up until level with roof. Traverse left onto the nose then move up to a rail which is followed left until able to climb up leftwards to a small ledge. Climb up a few metres further to a large ledge on the right. One is now directly above the start of the climb.

3. 55m 18 35m up to the left is a small tree. Climb diagonally leftwards up railed face. At about 20m move right past end of long narrow roof. From small tree follow leftleading corner to ledge on top of pillar. Continue up to left end of Grassy Ledge. The chains of the Rap Route are just below the ledge.

4. 40m 13 Climb up obvious gully/corner on left side of pillar (HEY JUDE climbs right side of pillar). Before the top of gully traverse left a few metres until able to climb up and left to ledge directly above previous stance. (HEY JUDE stances further left, where there are chains hidden by grassy tuft).

5. 45m 21 Move past a small cammed block to righthand end of ledge. Climb up rightward to gain vague crack system leading up wall. Climb crack to its end, then move left to base of narrow left facing dihedral. Climb this to small roof then move slightly left to gain a crack (about 2m right of HEY JUDE). Climb up to rail and traverse 3m right. Climb straight up past a prong to ledge, move 2m left, then continue up to long narrow ledge. Walk left for half a rope length, to a point 10m right of the tallest tree (Jungle Ledge). HALFMOON heads up big recess on the left.

6. 20m 18 turn the small roof a few metres up, then zig-zag up face above to reach ledge and block. Above and slightly left are two steep.

7. 20m 21 Climb up and left to base of right-hand chimney (HALF MOON). Undercling left to gain left hand chimney/recess which is followed to ledge.

8. 20 m 18 It makes sense to link pitches 8 and 9 to avoid the cubbeyhole stance. Climb diagonally right to gain right leaning crack. Gain the top of large block/flake left of crack. Continue up crack to cubbyhole (uncomfortable).

9. 20m 22 Climb the continuation crack (amazing!) until an easier angled slab on the right is reached. Stance at apex of slab.

10. 45m 17 Move round right into recess. 10m up this climb out diagonally rightwards and continue up to easy ground and ledges.

Scramble about 75m to the top.

Notes:

1. Gear is bomber on all the hard Pitches

PROJECT THREE Starts between SCATTERLINGS and EIGHT MILES HIGH, about 15 metres left of HEY JUDE, straight up to the grass ledge between the two climbs. Start about 5 metres left of EIGHT MILES HIGH.

1. 40m 17 Up 7m then 2m right to crack which is about 6m left of EMH. More or less straight up to a ledge.

2. 40m 19 Climb up behind stance passing small overhang on the right at 7m. Continue up and slightly left to pass another roof on the left. Rail haul up to ledge under small roof above previous stance (5m left of EMH).

3. 35m 22R 7m up is a bulge with a small triangle in it. When established above this, move left 2m then straight up the crack to the Grassy Ledge. Walk up and 25m left to cleaned ledge, below some overhanging rock (3m right of tree).

4. 30m 20R Climb corner above blackened overhang, moving right at 15m (take care on loose rock). Move up, then trend back leftwards to ledge slightly above and 5m left of HEY JUDE’s peg stance (rap chains hidden by grass tuft).

5. 35m 20R Climb the crack above the left hand edge of the stance, stepping right at about 12m, then moving up and back left. Stance at the right edge of the HALFMOON Jungle Ledge.

6. 45m 18 Climb the short corners rightish to reach the slabby face. Continue up leftwards to the base of a crack through a steep orange section. Aid this or (alt.) climb the narrow HALFMOON chimney (5m left) to a ledge.

7. 45m 23R Continue up just left of the tree to the rap bolts. Traverse right and climb the left facing corner offwidth and continuation corner above the niche on HALFMOON, to a small ledge where the crack splits under a large roof. The bulge is harder for climbers shorter than 1.8m.

8. 35m 18 Climb the right hand crack up to a big rail and move out right under the roof to bucket seat on the lip. Continue up the crack and ledges above on the right to the HEY JUDE scramble.

Notes:

1. The runouts on pitches 3 and 5 are relatively safe. Pitch 4 is quite serious due to loose rock and minimal gear. A large cam (probably a #6) will make the crux pitch more appealing and eliminate the “R” rating for this pitch.

Near the right hand side of the North Wall, to the right of the squeeze-through boulder (but to the left of BIG CORNER) is a 20m high rock pillar. Immediately left of the pillar a break extends up and slightly left, initially as a faint crackline, and after 20m as a recess.

1. 40m 21 Climb the faint crack and make thin moves right and up to gain a rail. Traverse left and climb the loose recess to reach small ledges.

2. 30m 23R George's Horror Pitch. Starting on the right climb up and then traverse about 10m left to a block. Move up 3m to a roof. Rail left until able to pull up rightwards to the next roof. Traverse right to an off balance ledge, step right, and climb up to a small ledge. Rail 5m to the left and move up to a long, narrow ledge. This pitch is very loose, Take care.

3. 30m 20 Traverse left and climb up via the obvious gap in the overhangs. Follow the recess and corner above until able to move right to ledges.

4. 35m 17 Climb up the right leaning break and continue up easy rock to a grassy ledge in a corner and just below a tree (ANCIENT DUST OF AFRICA crosses here).

5. 30m 13 Move around left onto a face, climb up this, move back right and continue to ledges.

6. 35m 17 Climb up leftwards and continue up just to the left of overhangs. Climb the break to reach ledges on the right.

7. 45m 19 Climb up 15m to a long narrow overhang. Traverse about 10m left, until able to climb up diagonally right to reach a small left facing corner, about 25m above the stance. Traverse right from the top of the corner and climb the ramp leading to ledge on the right.

8. 25m 18 Traverse right into the base of a huge dihedral, and climb up a few metres until able to move right to a ledge on the arête.

9. 35m 20 Traverse wildly right to a ledge.

10. 20m 17 Move right and climb the recess/crack to reach two large ledges. BIG CORNER stances to the right and climbs the obvious crack on the right.

11. 35m 21 Climb steep crack in the left corner. Step left onto face (above stance) and climb this to rounded ledge. Traverse left and move up to sloping ledge.

12. 50m 19 Climb up recess and bottomless chimney. Sneak left. Scramble to top.

Notes:

1. A knifeblade provided protection on the crux of the 1st pitch on the FA. Not necessary with modern gear.

RAZOR'S EDGE DIRECT * * 23 [N] From the end of pitch 7, traverse right to belay on the ledge below the monster dihedral. This is in the middle of the original RAZOR'S EDGE pitch 8.

1. 50m 23 Get your jam on and climb the corner to a very welcome ledge on the right hand wall. Wild, outrageous and mind-bendingly brilliant.

2. 60m 19R Place high gear in the crack directly above the stance. Downclimb and choose a level to run it out on crimpers diagonally right to the distant arête. Climb the jugs on the skyline until level with the roof that caps the monster dihedral. Rail left until directly above the stance, crank through the very exposed bulge and climb straight up on jugs to the top. Feel free to yodel. 2012-05-26.

Climbs the front of the buttress between BIG CORNER and MALEBOCH. Scramble as for these routes, to the usual rope-up point left of a squeeze through flake. The buttress towers directly above.

1. 35m 16 Climb right and up to beneath a roof. Step right to gain the crack which is followed to a shady ledge and yellowwood tree (first pitch of MALEBOCH).

2. 35m 18 Traverse left, then continue diagonally left to the front of the buttress. Climb up and left to belay on a good ledge on the left side of the buttress, a few metres above rap chains.

3. 40m 20 Traverse right a few metres and climb the left trending crack system. Continue up the face, to belay at the chains a few metres up a left-leaning ramp.

4. 30m 23 Continue to the top of the ramp, then climb a few metres up the slab on the right. Climb the steep crack and flared groove to reach a small ledge.

5. 40m 16 Finish the short corner, then climb diagonally right to the arête, which is followed to a wide ledge. Walk 10m left.

6. 15m 20 Climb the flared corner-crack and continuation fist crack to a ledge.

7. 25m 16 A few metres right and up is a right-facing corner-cum-chimney which is climbed to a large ledge. The easiest finish is on the left.

Notes:

1. Use the nearby rap route (described elsewhere) to link this route up.

Start right of the water berry tree on the easy steps up and move left to find the first clip on a bulging corner. The next few bolts are fairly steep and technical climbing, followed by a generous rest on a podium after the 5th bolt. Step further left around the slabby corner to climb the arête moving through glossy rock, a series of balancey step ups to a working rest next to a small tree. Now move right through the exposed crux of the route, follow the bolts to the chains.

A direct start has been made to the vertical crack mentioned in pitch 1, by entering its base at grade 22, by C. Lomax and D. Cheesmond in 1980.

Located on the true right of the gully below the large chock stone about 10m right of 'Sidewinder-Direct' .

1. 30m 22 Climb the obvious cracks up the wall to the break. Traverse left to the top of the first pitch of 'Sidewinder-Direct' and 'The Day Of The Smells'.

Scramble halfway up the "steep gully blocked by a prominent triangular overhang at the top of the crag", right of 'Golden Goose' . Stance at a ledge and small tree, level with 'Golden Goose' mega-rail.

1. 20m 23 Step left across the gully to gain the ledges at the base of a steep, obtuse-angled dihedral. Climb this to the top.

Has the same start as 'Golden Goose'.

1. 25m 23 Climb the crack as for the second pitch of 'Golden Goose' and continue up to the rail. Move out and left and then up to the top.

Start directly below slab 2m to left of the start of 'Late Breeze' .

1. 40m 22 Move up to the start of the slab where a horizontal crack is encountered, Continue up 4m (20) to another resting spot. (This section is shared with 'Punchline') Then continue straight up avoiding the arete to the hollow block. Move up further rightwards to a jug handhold at the start of the fine horizontal crack. Traverse right 4m (across slab) to the base of the prominent crack line (crux). Climb this to the top exiting slightly left to a ledge and tree belay.

2. 15m 17 Climb directly above the stance to the base of an overhang, pull through the overhang (runner in crack to left). Continue up to the top of the block.

Note: There are various ways to cross from the left side of the slab to the right: a. Hands about 2m below the rail 21/22. b. Hands about 4m below the rail 20. It makes sense to place the nut for the original traverse before down climbing to this height. c. Climb up until hands are about 2-3m above the rail, then traverse right 21. The grades are somewhat reach dependent.

Located in a gully about 20 to 30m upstream of the lower campsite. The route pulls through the overhang at the back of the gully. The gully is about 20-30m downstream of 'Circle Of Hands'.

1. 20m 22 Climb up to and pull through the overhang on the right hand side (crux). Continue up the face to a small tree, then make a tricky traverse to the right for two to three meters. Climb the face above to a stance and scramble to the top.

Note: This climb bites early!

The climb ascends the steep face (downstream facing) to the left (looking up) of the nose directly above the lower campsite i.e. to the left of the climb 'Bonnie'.

1. 20m 22 Climb easy rock up to a good large ledge. Ascend the middle of the steep face avoiding the crack and recess and arete to the right completely. Follow a thin crack line initially up to a rail, then continue up the face to a good ledge where a belay can be made. Climb easily to the top of the crag.

Notes:

1. A fixed peg was placed near the top of the face.

2. Small wires (RPs) were used on the lower section of the face which constitutes the crux.

3. The recess and arete on the right was avoided completely.

Start as for 'Asterisk'.

1. 30m 22 Climb the crack running up the middle of the steep pink wall and continue straight up the face above, moving right onto ledges.

Note: 'The Cruise' follows the line of the aid route 'Asterisk' but finishes more directly.

Start 3m to the left of 'The Dogfather' directly below the overhanging jam crack.

1. 17m 22 A hard move from the left brings you onto good holds below the jam crack. Climb the crack to a belay ledge common with THE 'The Dogfather'.

2. 20m 21 Climb the crack in the right facing open book to a ledge and continue up the centre of the narrow orange face above, exiting to the left just before reaching the tree.

This takes the deep pink recess 3m to the left of 'Gunsight'.

1. 20m 22 Pull up through the overhang and diagonally left into the recess. Up the recess to the overhangs and step right. Continue straight up to a ledge and belay.

2. 20m 22 Directly above is an open book with a crack in its rear and a crack 2m to the right. Climb the right hand crack to a large ledge, and then continue up the open book at the back of the ledge.

Climb the crack 1m to the right of 'Gunsight'.

1. 20m 20 Climb the crack 1m to the right of 'Gunsight' to below the overhang level with the top of the prominent prow (where 'Gunsight' steps left). Move slightly left and climb the steep crack above easily to a point where you can traverse right to a ledge and belay.

2. 12m 23 Above is an overhanging face with a short bottomless "friend" crack 3m up. Use the face up and slightly right of the "friend" crack, and then move up on small holds directly above the "friend" crack, and climb to a ledge and tree belay.

The route follows the face between 'Juniper Face' and 'Dassie Route'. It gains a ledge below a prominent overhang about 20m above the base and then surmounts the overhang via a V-groove.

1. 20m 22 Ascend a short face, directly below the prominent overhang to a ledge. Gain the next higher ledge by ascending the steep face via a thin crack to the right of the centre of the face (crux). This variation was done on a top rope by both members of the opening party.

2. 30m 15, A1 Ascend diagonally right to the overhang just below the V-groove. Place piton as high as possible in the groove and use it to move up into the groove and onto the face above the overhang. Continue upward to a large ledge.

3. 40m 13 Continue up face to large ledge.

4. 15m 9 Up easy rock to the top.

Variation 1a. 20m 10 The crux of pitch 1 can be avoided by traversing 3m left and ascending the chimney to a grassy ledge (in common with 'Juniper Face'). Then traverse right for about 3m to a stance in a recess.

Start a few meters downstream of 'Lifebuoy', in a left-facing corner.

1. 15m 22 Climb straight up to the largest flat roof and break through the right hand side of this. Continue up to a ledge on the right. Easy rock leads to the top.

Start as for 'Shady Overhang'.

1. 15m 23 Climb straight up to the roof (SHADY OVERHANG trends right). Break through about 2m left of 'Shady Overhang' and follow the thin crack to a ledge. Easy rock leads to the top.

To the right of 'Midnight Crawl' there is a cave at ground level, and right of this an obvious overhanging crack line.

1. ?m 23 Start up the hanging tree roots for 6m to join the crack. Follow this through a roof. It is possible to step left above the roof onto a block (which forms the roof of the cave). Continue up the very overhanging crack to the ledge.

The route is situated on the overhanging face immediately right of the lower swimming pool above the last waterfall. i.e. about 10m upstream of 'Castle Gorge Corner' and starts at a recess with a small tree growing in it about 15m up. It follows a line through the two lower overhangs to the top. The route was pre-practiced on top rope.

1. 40m 23 Start at the base of the recess and climb up to the tree and then diagonally left to the roof (last resting place). Climb through the roof using the flake immediately above, and move immediately right to a mantelshelf move (crux). Climb up to the roof above and through on thin holds. Climb up to the final roof and traverse left to easier rock directly below the roof.

Note: The crux move can be protected by a Hex no 11 about a meter below the bottom roof in the recess and a Hex no 6 directly under the roof at the resting point mentioned. These protections are both bomb-proof and protect the leader from cratering from the crux. A friend no 2.5 can also be placed above the roof immediately below the crux (with difficulty). No runner should be placed behind the flake, as this would not reduce the fall factor markedly, and break the flake. The rest of the route can be protected easily.

This route shares the start of 'The Joy' but takes a vertical line above the flake.

1. 35m 23 Take off as for 'The Joy', continue straight up left of the lichen and top out through the roof.

Notes:

1. Don't place any protection behind the flake or sling it, as it won't take a lead fall.

2. The pitch was done once on top rope before being led.

Climbs the overhanging pink corner to the left of ?

1. [22/23] 20m Climb the awkward corner. Move right at the top. Be careful of wasps.

1. [22] 20m Climb the arête / face to the right of the 'Muffin-Direct' first pitch. Abseil off tree or do second pitch of 'Muffin-Direct'.

Start 3m right of 'Cream Team'.

1. 12m 22 Crank up from a large square hold to just reach a small hold below a small roof. Rail left until able to climb up and back right to larger holds at the base of a short left facing dihedral. Pull up into this and exit right.

Takes the break 1 to 2m left of 'Cream Team'. Start 2m left of 'Cream Team' undercut base.

1. 15m 22 Climb a smooth slab to a bottomless cubbyhole beneath a roof. Pull through to a fin. Climb the crack up to the steep wall above, finally stepping right and using the arete to top out.

1. [22] 15m

   Start about 5m to the left of 'Hyperadrenia', under a very steep, shallow open book. Climb directly up the open book to the stance shared with 'Donkerhoek Face'.

2. [20] 22m

   As for 'Hyperadrenia'.

A variation of 'The Great Dog Detective'.

1. [23] 5m From the first bolt continue straight up to the rail without traversing. Exit right at the rail.

To the left of KALAHARI and about 20m above the river is a ledge with a big block. Directly above this is a short, overhanging wall with a flaring crack. Scramble up to the ledge. Boulder out the steep wall and crack and continue up the easy slab to the tree. Rap off. Fun moves but very short.