Routes as sport in Ohanavan

One of the better easier routes in the area. As per usual it's a bit dirty, bit the movements are great and it's one of the few routes on this side of the river that doesn't start over the water. If you are proficient at jamming (hand and fingers) it will feel super cruiser. Gets shade most of the day!

Follow the line of bolts up a slab to a ledge. traverse the ledge left, ignoring the bolts up and right, then climb up to the anchors...

If you want more of a challenge in the Acid route, at the ledge instead of going left go straight up. A steep boulder problem with tight jams and lay-backing up the crack will bring you to the same anchors as for the route out left. The right variation goes at around 5.10, depending on hand-size.

Somewhat sequential climbing on pockets brings you up the wall with rests right where you need them. Near the top the character of the climbing changes nature and you are forced to grab some rather small crimps on the steepest part of the wall.

Have your belayer clip into the low bolt by the boulder and belay there.

Note on First Free Ascent: The first free ascent of this route was sniped from me by a couple of visiting Russian climbers who ignored my red tag.

Work in progress

An aesthetic climb with a memorable crux! An easy and less steep start leads up to harder and increasingly pumpier climbing to the final overhang where you must dispatch a puzzling, and committing final crux. One of the best at the crag for sure

This is the left of the two bolted lines going over the water.

To access Fishing For Freedom it is currently best to rap in from above and either set up a TR where the belayer is on the other side of the river, or to pull your ropes are you rap. Or you could try to swim there and get established on a very small ledge. Either way you're probably gonna get your rope wet.

A polished start on incut side-pulls leads to easier terrain and a nice ledge rest. When ready fire up the arete on sloping holds and pockets. End on an awesome ledge. Be careful not to blow the first few moves or you might end up in the water!!

A water polished start leads to a thought provoking crux. Easier climbing brings you to the top.

If bolted routes could feel adventurous this one definitely does! While is it a bit dirty the position of the route is stunning!

Towards the top the belayer will lose sight of the climber and because of the close proximity to the river it will be hard to communicate. So make sure you have a plan before you leave the ground.

A 60m will get you down easily!

The left most route

Bouldery start leads to easy but fun movement in a corner with stemming and good edges and jugs.

Tackle steep and chossy terrain for a few bolts until you get to a good stance under a bulge. Climb straight up the bulge for 2 bolts on somewhat hard-to-see but good edges (you need to find them between all the lichen.) Finish up on easier terrain. The bolting is a bit funky on this one. I'd recommend long draws on the first half of the route to prevent rope drag up top

Bouldery start leads to an easy slab then a ledge rest bellow an overhang/ bottomless arete. Surmount the overhang by doing a super cool move out right to the arete!

A bit wandering, but one of the best at the crag! Bouldery climbing brings you to a somewhat dirty mantle above the 2nd bolt. Compose yourself then tackle the bulge above for 3 bolts of steeper climbing on big pocket/jugs to get to another ledge. Clip a few more bolts on easier terrain to gain the anchors.

Climb the crack in between Crack for Cheese and Middle Finger.

Climb up the pocketed face using the right arete. Easy climbing leads you to the last bolt where you have to make big move. Don't blow the last move or you'll swing into the arete..

Climb up the shallow corner to a pedestal out right, then climb the face and left arete to a brief ledge rest. When ready tackle the last 2 bolts of steeper climbing using pockets, jugs, and the left arete. Try not to deviate too far to the right at any point or you'll find yourself on harder terrain with less flowing movement.