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description

A lovely cool chasm with a thrilling finish - a dramatic bridging sequence that is both run-out and exposed.

  1. 15m (11) Up the blocky corner to big boulder choke.

  2. 25m (11) Up wide chimney using face to the anchor (30m).

Route history

Nov 1964First ascent: Michael Stone & Ian Speedie

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -36.76205, 141.84541

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

11 Assigned grade
10 Arapiles, Selected Climbs
11 A Rockclimbers Guide to Arapiles/Djurite
11 private
9 RockGUIDE: Victoria

ethic

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

inherited from Arapiles

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 86 from 835 ratings.

Difficulty - 11

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 32 ratings.

Suggested Grade

11
12
13

Based on 32 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 418
Flash 44
Red point 127
Tick 344
Pink point 3
Attempt 9
Target 15

Comment keywords

crux solid hard strenuous tricky committing terrifying intimidating scary unprotected dangerous fall horrifying exposed smooth short flake traverse shady epic jugs pockets bad easy feet chimney bridging rest crazy technical contrived hands interesting crack dodgy arete face good superb amazing awesome great super exciting lovely sweet fantastic incredible pleasant cool brilliant nice enjoyable classic magic perfect fun

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Sat 20 May
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