★★★ Denim 26

"It will laugh at attempts to free it" - Keith Lockwood, Arapiles guidebook 1978. Freed by Kim in 1979 it didn't laugh for long but it still has plenty of chuckles at aspirants.

Louise Shepherd made a particularly impressive ascent in 1984 - she fell off the initial roof, lowered off then did it second shot, onsighting most of the route and placing the gear. Possibly the first female ascent at this grade in AU (she'd previously onsighted 26 (!) in Yosemite in 1981).

Start on the L side of the wall.

1. 18m (26) Steep thin cracks and roof to ledge.

2. 27m (22) A fantastic fingers corner crack. Despite what you might read elsewhere this pitch is not well protected at all.

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

• Stick to the paths.

• Don't disturb the wildlife.

• Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

• Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).