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Shiralee Wall All Trad climbing 17 routes in cliff

17
AU
8101315171921

Seasonality

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Description

Shiralee Wall is the substantial orange buttress below Touchstone and bounds the lower left side of the broad gully - Nameless 'Gully' between the 'Northern Group' and the 'Far Northern'.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Kachoong Area

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Approach

Park as for Entertainer and walk up the management track, continue past Entertainer path to a cairn by an old fallen dead tree. Head left and up towards the buttress on a vague track with a few more cairns.

© (willmonks)

Descent notes

Rap anchors above Shiralee Direct and I am a Banana Expert

© (willmonks)

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

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Routes

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1
22 R A Gift From the Gods Mixed trad 25m, 1

The good section hardly makes up for the horrible start and way off.

Start: At lowest point on wall.

FA: Keith Egerton, Andrew Corlass, Kieran Loughran, Ed Neve & Craig Nottle, 1984

2
19 Who Rolled the Stone? Trad 50m, 2

Better than AGFTG despite sharing the start and much the same finish

Start: As for A Gift From The Gods.

  1. 25m (19) Up the mossy slab then take orange diagonal on the steep wall just right. At the top of the diagonal, step right and up through overhang to ledge.

  2. 25m (-) Line on right wall of gully.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Mike Stone, 1984

3
18 Stone's Throw Trad 50m, 2

Start: As for A Gift From The Gods.

  1. 25m (18) Diagonally right up moss to ledge. Climb wall above a faint rock scar, thence up left into lichenous weakness and back right to stance.

  2. 25m (-) Straight up, heading right at top.

FA: Dave Gairns, Chris Baxter, Mike Stone & Peter Woolford, 1984

4
17 Banshee Trad 50m, 2

Not worth the star. Protection is a bit fiddly to get though it is good on the hardest moves.

Start: Originally started as for A Gift From The Gods but is better as for 'Dingbats'.

  1. 20m (17) Go up to ledge. Step right and go straight up compact orange rock being careful not to stray right into 'Dingbats'.

  2. 30m (-) Up slightly left on good rock to easy finish. Better would be to traverse easily right for 10 metres to the Shiraleee abseil anchor.

FA: Keih Lockwood, Rick Hatch & Ray Lassman, 1983

5
14 Dingbats Trad 50m, 2

Start: 4 metres left of 'The Shiralee'.

  1. 20m (14) Straight up then step left to gain ramp leading diagonally right.

  2. 30m (14) Step left and climb bulging groove on good rock.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Tony Yap. Start as described by Chris Baxter et al., 1984

6
15 ★★ The Shiralee Trad 55m, 2

Tenuous climbing into the orange scoops that would have been very scary before microcams. Deserves to be climbed more often and might be now that the abseil anchor has gone in

Put up in a rainstorm during which a child almost drowned in Central Gully!

Start: Start below line of orange scoops.

  1. 25m (15) Climb easily up just left of the smooth face to orange rock and up into the line to the overhang. Traverse right and then back left above the overhang to rap-anchor.

  2. 30m (9) Abseil off of follow jugs up the line.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Reg Marron, 1973

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7
19 ★ The Shiralee Direct Mixed trad 20m, 1

A direct start and finish to 'The Shiralee' makes for a very good climb. Take some tiny cams and a #3 (blue) Camalot in your rack.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 2009

8
17 R ★ The Crumpet Didn't Front Trad 25m

Start at short crack 6 metres right of 'The Shiralee', up blank wall past pocket (crux and no gear) to crack in overlap then up wall. Quite good climbing on spaced gear. Traverse R to chains on I Am An Expert on Bananas

FA: Chris baxter & Keith Lockwood., 1983

9
17 Tallness is something Other People Suffer From Mixed trad 25m, 2

Takes the deep crack not quite reaching the ground right of Crumpet then step left and up wall past 2 bolts. Traverse off to anchor on Banana Expert

FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 26 Mar 2016

10
18 Great Sleeping Weather Mixed trad 25m, 3

Take right hand line through overlap right of Tallness (the flake on left line is hollow), up past bolt through bulge then easy ground to nice wall. Step left and finish as per Tallness past 2 bolts. Traverse R to chains.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Wendy Eden, 26 Mar 2016

11
15 ★ I am a Banana Expert Mixed trad 25m, 2

Up black and orange clean streak left of Cold Episode of Influenza, 2 bolts plus gear, take micro cams and a 3 camalot. Rap anchor.

FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 26 Mar 2016

12
8 ★ Cold Episode of Influenza Trad 25m

Takes the low angled groove at right end of wall. Shares anchor with I am a Banana Expert.

FA: Wendy Eden & Geordie Webb, 25 Mar 2016

13
14 Tea is Full of Good Things Trad 25m

The Beatuitiful Possiblities of the Northern Group! Ok, maybe not quite, but it is a delicate line up the front of a buttress. Gear is fiddly. Up seam right of Cold Episode, continue up front of buttress and through overlap at top. Traverse to anchor on Banana Expert

FA: Wendy Eden & Geordie Webb, 25 Mar 2016

14
14 I will build a great wall Mixed trad 2

Up wall left of easy crack, past 2 bolts and small bulge. Take a 2 RP.

FA: Wendy Eden & Ying Ying He, 12 Jun 2017

15
11 Most persecuted politician in history Trad

Up easy crack in centre of wall, cross left over I will build a great wall to next easy crack.

FA: Wendy Eden & Ying Ying He, 12 Jun 2017

16
17 Mind so open his brain leaked out Trad

Up wall left of Unauthorised Mice to small ledge, crank through bulge and up. Fiddly to protect below bulge and on top wall. There is a good cam above bulge on the left that you can't see from under it.

FA: Wendy Eden & Ying Ying He, 12 Jun 2017

17
13 Unauthorised Mice Trad 20m

The right arete of the orange wall uphill from Tea is Full of Good Things.

FA: Wendy Eden & Jess Hartridge, 7 May 2016

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Arapiles, Selected Climbs

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Buy
ⓘ
Arapiles 444 Of The Best Climbing Guide

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Buy
ⓘ
Sublimb Climbs

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Buy
ⓘ

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Wendy Eden on Great Sleeping Weather 18 - IMG_3161.JPG

Thu 25 May
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