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Voidoid Pinnacle

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Description

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Pharos Gully Area

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Arete left of Flights Of Fancy doing first 2 metres left of arete.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Greg Pritchard & Phil Wilkins, 1993

Steep and gymnastic good rock good gear.

Start: Start as for "Flights of Fancy", clip the first bolt stepping off a big boulder to gain the horizontal break leading left with vague pockets, monkey up to second bolt and good jug, straight up to more gear before moving back right to join FOF then head back left and then up to the top, traversing right along a ledge to gain anchors

FA: Muki Woods & Ingvar Lidman, 2009

The logical bits of Flights of Fancy and Jumping for Jugs if you can't do the dyno of FOF. Up JFJ until you can move back right, and finish up FOF. Fun steep climbing with a thin runout finish (but if you have a decent wing span it feels very contrived to avoid the holds out left)

Start: Start at crack directly below the lone bolt in the middle of the south face (facing 'Heckle' and Jeckle) and head straight up past big dyno.

The original route by Steve Monks traversed right at first break, up arete then back left somewhere at 25.

FA: Steve Monks, 1986

Pull into undercut line and up two left-facing corners, then step right and up.

Start: Start around right of Flights Of Fantasy below arete.

FA: Eddy Ozols & Colin Reece, 1978

On the west face is a blank piece of rock capped by a roof. Start 1m L of No Turning Back, passing some horizontal breaks to reach the roof. Crank through the roof to finish up the vertical seam. Gear is not great.

FA: Steve Monks & Chris Baxter, 1986

Distinguished line in middle of west wall.

FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1985

Nice rock, nice moves, brilliant nut pro. With that many superlatives it's gotta be worth a star, right?

Start: Start right of 'No Turning Back'.

FA: Keith Lockwood & Tim Lockwood, 1995

Twin cracks 2 metres right of Barefoot In The Park.

FA: Sally Bentley & Eddy Rawlins, 2000

This cliff is unlocated

If you know where this cliff is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. contact us if you have any issues.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Thu 25 May
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