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Fox Rocks

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 3

Seasonality

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Description

Another collection of small outcrops on a ridge.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Campbells Kingdom Carpark

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Approach

The next west-leading ridge south of 'Possum Rocks'. Head towards the toe of 'Possum Rocks', sidle past it and uphill through scrub.

© (willmonks)

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Line at left end to finish up seam in prominent little headwall

FA: Geoff Little, Nyrie Dodd & Jon Muir, 1988

Seam to right of Bucket Full Of Yabbies with hard, unprotected start.

FA: Jon Muir (solo), 1988

Rounded arete with awkward start just right of 'Hog Will Face Protest'.

FA: Jon Muir, Nyrie Dodd & Geoff Little, 1988

Good climbing up obvious line taking overhang on right. Sustained in upper half.

Start: Start below thin, right-leaning corner towards left end of face.

FA: Ian Ravenscroft & Chris Baxter, 1988

Over bulge then easily up to steepening. Up right onto arete, over loose block, then back left to finish.

Start: Start 15 metres or so right of 'Foxtrot', in middle of next buttress down right.

FA: Chris Baxter & Ian Ravenscroft, 1988

Follow a series of little corners just left of steep ground.

Start: Start towards left end of lower tier, immediately left of small cave and about 8 metres left of a major V-corner.

FA: Chris Baxter, Dave Gairns & Francine Gilfedder, 1981

Beautiful rock but the 20+ year-old sling will need replacing. Originally written up as starting up 'Dead Fox' after mis-identifying the easier climbs in the area.

FA: Jon Muir & Geoff Little, 1988

Rounded, undercut arete just right of 'Frank Kilby Memorial Route'.

FA: Geoff Little & Jon Muir, 1988

The most obvious line at Fox Rox. A grade 18 direct finish to this route was written up in May 2005 Argus by Trevor Wall, Vince Waters thinking it was a DF to "Dead Fox". It's not clear wheer the DF goes, possibly high up the righthand wall.

FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Gairns, 1981

Cracks to bushy ledge. Easy corner above.

Start: Start about 20 metres right of 'Eternal Youth' at little jam-crack in small bay.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1981

Obvious left-leaning crack then rounded arete.

Start: Start right of 'Roxanne'. Originally described as "at right end of bay" but probably quite a long way right of 'Roxanne'.

FA: Jon Muir & Phil Wilkins, 1988

Cracked arete at left end of upper tier.

FA: Maureen Gallagher & Nyrie Dodd, 1988

Sustained overhung crack 8 metres right of 'Nuptial Pads'.

FA: Jon Muir, Nyrie Dodd, Maureen Gallagher & Geoff Little, 1988

Roof and crack right of Four Fs

FA: Jon Muir, Maureen Gallagher & Geoff Little, 1988

The middle line, slightly left-leaning.

FA: Jon Muir, Geoff Little & Maureen Gallagher, 1988

Take the left line up and slightly left then follow groove right and over bulge.

FA: Geoff Little, Maureen Gallagher & Jon Muir, 1988

Two loose blocks to start then line which curves right at top. From ledge on right, finish up slab.

Start: Towards right end of upper tier.

FA: Chris Baxter & Ian Ravenscroft. Maureen Gallagher did a more direct finish in late., 1988

The easy stepped line, moving right at the top to below a steep wall. Move up to a ledge and step right, exposed, and up on jugs.

Start: Start about 15 metres left of "Eternal Youth, 7 metres left of "Dead Fox" behind a large block at the left and front end of the lower tier.

FA: Iain Sedgman & Lesley Roberts, 2004

This was written up as a new route "Foxy Lady" in Argus May 2005, however that was based on thinking that "Dead Fox" was the major corner taken by "Eternal Youth".

FA: Vince Waters & Trevor Wall, 2004

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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