This area is the main introduction to climbing at Sublime Point for many beginners - due to the classic easy route Sweet Dreams. On a nice day there can be several parties on the route at once, so if crowds aren't your thing get on the route early. Helmets are advised due to potential rockfall from climbers above. A tragic fatality from rockfall in 2022 is reminder to take care in such an outdoor environment. The sun hits this wall around midday - and can be scorching. Bring enough water and sunscreen!
There is NO pubic toilet at the carpark, and the surrounding bush is already suffering from overuse as a bush toilet and tourist rubbish dump (the nearby residents don’t like people literally crapping in their backyards). The nearest public toilet is on the Leura Mall. There are private houses directly above this cliffline - try not to be too noisy, especially in the carpark.
After descending the ridge (info one level up) continue along the base of the cliff past the Binary Cave and Bentrovarto Wall to reach a fixed 'via ferrata' cable leading a across an exposed rock traverse. Clip in to the cable with a long sling and hand traverse across to safety. Don't solo it! The drop is epic and the rock quality is terrible. On the other side of the cable walk down and across another 20m to find Saccharine Nightmare and Sweet Dreams.
Sublime Point is an old climbing area, with many routes dating from the 1950s and 1960s. Aid and mixed climbing was the fashion then, and the easier routes can be pretty bold for a modern climber. In the last 10 years there have been a lot of well protected sport routes added. This has been seen as controversial by some climbers who consider the crag a 'mixed' climbing venue.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.
Author(s): Simon Carter
Date: 2019
ISBN: 9780958079082
The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.
Author(s): Simon Carter
Date: 2019
ISBN: 9780958079075
Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!
14 | ★★★ Sweet Dreams | ||
17 | ★★★ Sweet Nightmare (Link-Up) | ||
19 | ★★★ Whymper | ||
21 | ★★ Smack My Pitch Up | ||
22 | ★★ Saccharine Nightmare |
lancaster12 at Sweet Dreams Walls - 1012963_10155020429025137_3181142864764264541_n.jpg
Christopher on ★★★ Whymper 19 - IMG-20210116-WA0004.jpg
Danger Innes on ★★★ Whymper 19 - whymper.jpg
Luke Yerbury and Dylan Hemson on ★★ Smack My Pitch Up 21 - Smack My Pitch Up
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