Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Thu 25th Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Dress Rehearsal Rag Wall | |||||||
17 |
★★ Dress Rehearsal Rag P1
![]()
1
17
15m
| 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Sun 7th Apr 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | |||||||
8 |
★ Faith P3
![]()
3
22m
| 22m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Shimmying down to help Sarah with first move off ledge.
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Sun 11th Feb 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | |||||||
22 |
★★★ On Edge
![]() | 28m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Tue 23rd Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | |||||||
18 |
★★★ The Eternity
![]() | 22m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sat 20th Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | |||||||
18 |
★★★ The Eternity
![]() | 22m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
19 Hard |
★★ Psychotic
![]() | 25m, 3 | |||||
17 Hard |
★★★ Psychopath
![]() | 28m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
15 |
★★ The Carthaginian
![]() | 33m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
18 |
★★★ The Eternity
![]() | 22m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Sat 13th Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | |||||||
21 |
★ Sincerity Direct Finish
![]() | 16m | |||||
15 |
★★ Hope
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 3rd Jan 2024 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | |||||||
18 |
★★★ The Eternity
![]() | 22m | |||||
15 |
★★ The Carthaginian
![]() | 33m | |||||
18 |
★★★ The Eternity
![]() | 22m | |||||
17 |
★★★ Psychopath
![]() | 28m | |||||
They should take a star off eternity and make this one 4star. Beautiful fists at the top
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18 |
★★★ The Eternity
![]() | 22m | |||||
Is this a face climb or a crack climb
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Thu 28th Dec 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Catch the Wind Area | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Catch the Wind P2
![]()
2
21
30m
| 30m | |||||
21 |
★★★ Catch the Wind P2
![]()
2
21
30m
| 30m | |||||
21 |
★★★ Catch the Wind P2
![]()
2
21
30
| 30m | |||||
Wee bit of headpointing after my dog session the other day… think I’m ready to climb it with another human now. Anyone keen to jump on this 4star classic?
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Mon 18th Dec 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Pindari | |||||||
23 |
★★★ The House of Meat
![]() | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thin, pumpy, engaging. This feels like the pick of the lot on this wall so far for me. Solid as at 23!!! Got a couple laps in linking it all the way from the bottom pitch. Will be back for more.
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Sun 12th Nov 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Exhibition Wall | |||||||
21 |
★★★ Exhibition Wall
![]() | 30m | |||||
Learning 2 climb slab
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Wed 25th Oct 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Pindari | |||||||
25 |
★★ Voyage for Two
![]() | 55m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Epic climbing, this was so fun, first pitch went but not free,second pitch was very interesting to work out beta, French freed. Managed to onsight the 3rd pitch, but, doing it on lead would have been engaging af!!!
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Sat 21st Oct 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Bardens Lookout Little Triggers Wall | |||||||
17 |
★ Solvin Puzzle
![]() | 15m, 10 | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 25th Aug 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area The Noisy Place | |||||||
22 |
★★ Die, Fox, Die
![]() | 15m | |||||
Sun 23rd Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area The Noisy Place | |||||||
14 |
★ The Crunched Dog and the Ducati
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Differences from the crack 3m right: lower angle, wider, corner, wall holds ... all good reasons for 8 fewer grades
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14 |
★ The Crunched Dog and the Ducati
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Tried the pure layback and gassed out on last two moves. Blame the next door crack, not Science Friction.
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22 |
★ Endotoxic Shock
![]() | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
More froqqing: dogged the lower crux, at least under my own steam, then hardly steamed up the crack. No chance of a frocked-up lead.
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22 |
★★ Die, Fox, Die
![]() | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Came to train for Frog in a Froq and got thoroughly defrocked. But to paraphrase Bill Clinton's second most famous saying ("I smoked but I did not inhale"), in my defence "I sagged, but I did not haul", despite a dogfest more rancid than yesterday's recycled running thermal, rendered largely unnecessary by significant global warning since the last visit, and the amount of finger-busting calories expended. Even took off a shoe to try an old-school toe jam to no
avail, layed back weirdly off crimps, opposed locks, sagged a zillion times and finally technically crawled over the top. Froq!
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Sun 9th Jul 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | |||||||
13 |
★ Sincerity
![]() | 14m, 4 | |||||
15 |
★★ Hope
![]() | 15m | |||||
8 |
★ Faith
![]() | 52m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 17th Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Odin Head | |||||||
19 |
★★ El Dorado
![]() | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Wed 7th Jun 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Catch the Wind Area | |||||||
22 |
★★★ Passing Wind
![]() | 30m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
F-ing all time. First time on it, and certainly won't be my last!
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Tue 30th May 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area New York West (Left) Side | |||||||
22 |
★★ #11
![]() | 10m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Couldn't pull the move between the 1st and 2nd but gonna be a proj for sure. this is my idea of climbing
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Sat 13th May 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Masterplan Area | |||||||
20 |
★ Marooned
![]() | 12m | ★ Good | ||||
One move wonder, but lovely easy access. A combo of aid and lead Rope solo to get the rope up then clean top solo
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22 |
★★ The Go Between
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Not much harder than the 20 really, but quite fun, the most sustained of the three
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23 |
★★ Master Plan
![]() | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Went fine if you're not trashed when starting, just a tad crimpy
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Mon 8th May 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head Ikara Head | |||||||
22 |
★★★ Aladinsane
![]() | 32m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Tue 24th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Pindari | |||||||
20 |
★★★ This Sporting Life
![]() | 43m, 15 | ★ Good | ||||
Dunno about that first pitch at 19. It felt nails but maybe just because it was seeping. Upper pitch was great fun though.
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21 |
★★ Rampaging Roy
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun juggy steepness. Unusual for the grade. Perfect after work laps before the storm rolled in.
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Sun 8th Jan 2023 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Flake Crack Area | |||||||
11 |
★ Angular Crack
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 16th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Masterplan Area | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Go Between
![]() | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Teaching Ryan to topr rope solo and Wanted to see where I was at post surgery 2 trs laps felt pretty cruisey
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Wed 7th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area The Soft Parade The Middle | |||||||
16 |
★ A Touch of Frost
![]() | 10m | Average | ||||
It's rough on the finger tips
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Mon 5th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Auntie Jack Area | |||||||
10 |
★ Lishenbak
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
Mon 5th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Birdsnest Area | |||||||
15 R |
★ Birds Nest
![]() | 25m | ★ Good | ||||
Mon 5th Dec 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Crackle Area | |||||||
15 |
★ Rice Bubbles
![]() | 18m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Loved the start
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Thu 24th Nov 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Crackle Area | |||||||
13 R |
★ Pop
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
16 |
★ Crackle
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
15 |
★ Rice Bubbles
![]() | 18m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 17th Nov 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Deceptor Buttress | |||||||
14 |
★ Denali Blaster
![]() | 35m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 16th Nov 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Atomic Punk Area | |||||||
14 Hard |
★ Refusal
![]() | 25m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Mon 3rd Oct 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Janicepts Area | |||||||
21 |
★★★ The Janicepts
![]() | 27m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Couldn't get into the knee bar on TRS so I got a little pumped.
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Thu 29th Sep 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Pindari | |||||||
22 |
★★ Much of a Muchness
![]() | 30m | |||||
21 |
★★ Rampaging Roy
![]() | 30m | |||||
20 |
★★★ This Sporting Life
![]() | 43m, 15 | |||||
Wed 27th Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Birdsnest Area | |||||||
23 |
★★ Crystal Set
![]() | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 16th Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Auntie Jack Area | |||||||
22 |
★★ Return of the Toe Cutter Gang
![]() | 25m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Key right footer.
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Sat 16th Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Masterplan Area | |||||||
20 |
★ Marooned
![]() | 12m | |||||
PUMPY!
|
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Fri 15th Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Masterplan Area | |||||||
22 |
★★ The Go Between
![]() | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Handful of laps in the arvo sun
some clean and some with sits
|
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Wed 13th Jul 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Psychopath
![]() | 28m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Laps
|
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Fri 10th Jun 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | |||||||
18 |
★★★ The Eternity
![]() | 22m | |||||
17 |
★★★ Psychopath
![]() | 28m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thu 19th May 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Birdsnest Area | |||||||
21 |
★ Spangled Drongo
![]() | 20m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
18 |
★ Sparrow
![]() | 18m, 4 | |||||
17 |
★ Currawongs & Chocolate Cakes
![]() | 18m, 4 | |||||
Thu 19th May 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Auntie Jack Area | |||||||
10 |
★ Lishenbak
![]() | 30m | |||||
Sat 30th Apr 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Auntie Jack Area | |||||||
10 |
★ Lishenbak
![]() | 30m | ★ Good | ||||
First rope solo! Mildly spicy fun
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Mon 18th Apr 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Engineers Cascade | |||||||
17 |
★ Living in the Outside
![]() | 13m | ★ Good | ||||
Better than I remembered. Some finesse helps. Lots of laps getting the lead solo rust out. 9.2mm feeds like butter, but catch ya?
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22 |
★ Mechanical Advantage
![]() | 13m | ★ Good | ||||
Better and more consistent than I remembered.
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Tue 15th Mar 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Catch the Wind Area | |||||||
19 |
★ Catchit
![]() | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Top rope solo. Took like 10 attempts to get the first move off the ledge (crux). Really surprised I was able to get the high foot-right hand crimp-pull body up move but it felt so nice I re-did that one move another 5 times! Felt like sandstone slab could be my new favourite type of climbing til I got cheesegratered near the rope due to a foot slip….
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19 |
★ Catchit
![]() | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Another lap once the clouds hid the sun
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Sun 16th Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Crackle Area | |||||||
15 13 R |
★ Pop
![]() | 30m | Average | ||||
Not much to pin your safety upon.
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15 |
★ Rice Bubbles
![]() | 18m | Average | ||||
Counted about 8 bits of potential pro. Steep at the top.
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15 12 |
★ Flap
![]() | 25m | Don't Bother | ||||
There are some things from the 70s I not only liked but miss: flares, those fluffy girl's hairstyles, the sax solo, and particularly, The Dark Side of the Moon. I think there's a sound case for bringing back Lindemans Ben Ean Moselle and filterless Camel cigarettes, which lasted long afterward, and declaring analog synthesiser music to be intangible cultural heritage.
But don't be deceived: a rock climb from 1974 is not the same as one of the 90s or 2020s, so if you want to do this, be prepared for an undercut start that might fornerly have involved using a tree, then 18ft to the first welcome sideways medium hex. At which point one can traverse off left along a good ledge to the access gully, which might just be the best idea. Another piece at 25ft, maybe a sling and another bit at 35ft then the crux, an overhung grade 15 pull-up above a ledge, then run it out to the top. It's juggy and ledgy enough, with no logical reason to fall off, but to get back to 1974, some things are simply left, as they were, of their time. |
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Mon 10th Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Fargoid Area | |||||||
21 |
★ Fargoid
![]() | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Another blueys 21. Punchy start into cruxy crux and delicate finish.
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Tue 4th Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area The Soft Parade The Right Hand End | |||||||
15 |
★ Home Run
![]() | 12m | Don't Bother | ||||
One awkward 15ish move then a dirty grade 11 slab.
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Sun 2nd Jan 2022 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Pindari | |||||||
23 |
★★★ The House of Meat
![]() | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Benchmark. From the ground is fine, traversing would be a right pain. Awesome headwall. Camped out the thunderstorm at half height, stashing everything metal.
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20 |
★★★ This Sporting Life
![]() | 43m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I must be getting less discerning with age. Fabulous climbing. Clare, Dave, Jill and Carie.
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Thu 18th Nov 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area New York East (Right) Side | |||||||
14 |
Two Carrots Red (Unknown 1)
![]() | 10m, 2 | Average | ||||
Wall can be climbed anywhere really, just moved the thin red line 1m right every time.
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14 |
Two Carrots Red (Unknown 1)
![]() | 10m, 2 | Average | ||||
16 |
Two Carrots Purple (Unknown 0)
![]() | 10m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice, easier up the arete
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16 |
Two Carrots Purple (Unknown 0)
![]() | 10m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Nice, harder up the roof
|
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15 |
Two Carrots Orange (Unknown 2)
![]() | 10m, 2 | Average | ||||
Scratching the itch
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15 |
Two Carrots Orange (Unknown 2)
![]() | 10m, 2 | Average | ||||
15 |
Two Carrots Yellow (Unknown 3)
![]() | 10m, 2 | Average | ||||
15 |
Two Carrots Yellow (Unknown 3)
![]() | 10m, 2 | Average | ||||
A few nice slab moves down low.
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Fri 8th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Mezzaluna Area | |||||||
18 |
★ Salubrious
![]() | 18m, 4 | |||||
Mon 4th Oct 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area The Noisy Place | |||||||
25 |
Unbolted 6
![]() | 15m | Average | ||||
Ordinary start and finish, perplexing middle. Not a modern 25. Hard DS.
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Wed 22nd Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area The Noisy Place | |||||||
22 |
★ Endotoxic Shock
![]() | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Not a sandbag, just proper 22. Not a warm-up though. Boulder start and then very pleasant locks and jams.
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25 |
Simon's Route
![]() | 15m, 3 | Average | ||||
Unfortunately you end up in the pod. Only shares one hold at the top and the climbing is good and sustained. The crux is hard and the last bolt is weirdly placed, I'm guessing to keep it away from the crack.
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Sat 11th Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Giggles Wall | |||||||
23 23 R |
Toads
![]() | 30m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Feet and modern shoes. Direct into Wazzakstan works too. Little harder, way scarier.
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Wed 8th Sep 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Zig Zag Ethel's Wall | |||||||
20 |
Unknown 20
![]() | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
Some fun moves.
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Tue 31st Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Corroboree Walls Disneyland | |||||||
21 |
★ Stromboli
![]() | 25m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very rad, shame it's not longer. Most definitely 21. If it feels harder you haven't found the 2 key sequences.
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21 23 |
★ Uncontrollable Urge
![]() | 22m | ★ Good | ||||
McDougall still the way to go and makes it much more consistent. Very nice thoughtful climbing from bottom to top. Musta been strong back in the day to stick those slopes.
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Fri 20th Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Nothing Area | |||||||
24 |
★ Nothing
![]() | 30m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Old-skool (cough) 23. Would've been a giggle on the carrots. I wonder if it's worn away/got harder or we've got softer or need to find all the sequences. Diagonally past 1st bolt just seems wrong. Went up and traversed hard right which was cool. Cross-through, right foot, sustain, heartbreaker crux.
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19 |
Areticide
![]() | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Stars! Fun old-skool start mostly climbing around the crack with an arm/leg bar or two. Tricky onto and then up cool insecure arete to the top. Really pleasant and climbs different every lap.
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Tue 17th Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Auntie Jack Area | |||||||
23 |
★ Disjointed
![]() | 25m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
3 fun thin bouldery moves of 23 and then pleasant rambling with good gear. Direct start is slightly easier but not quite as engaging.
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Sun 15th Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Auntie Jack Area | |||||||
22 22 R |
★★ Left Lane Ends
![]() | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Groundfall with bonus ledge fall. Spectacular edging with an unexpected nails crux. Lack of traffic means it will need a brush, probably best to rehearse anyway. Loses one star for old bolts, dirt and potential serious injury. Start in the middle of the wall is slightly better/easier. Good warm-up for Age of Reason?
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Sat 14th Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Buddha/Engineering Area | |||||||
22 |
★★ Engineering Feats of the 80s
![]() | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Old-skool 22. Powerful sustained 1st half, and engaging top half. Bit sharp to start. Beware the semi-permanent flake. Glad I didn't lead this in its previous engineering state. Pretty classic really.
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Fri 13th Aug 2021 - Blue Mountains | |||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount York Birdsnest Area | |||||||
23 |
★★ Radios Appear
![]() | 25m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Topo is wrong. All share the same start, or start CSD. Can go very slightly independent of CS at 1st break with what looks like a good wire and nice climbing (but slightly worrying ledge of Lishenback). Well protected, sustained crux with just enough good holds. R foot 3" higher than obvious is key for the not tall people.
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