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The Monolith Boulder

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 35
  • Aka: T-Bone Totem

Seasonality

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Description

One of the highest and most beautiful boulders in the area. The northern side has a number of easy highball slabs, the western face has some moderate highball faces, and the eastern/south face have short, powerful climbs.

Approach

Approach via the Lower Tier. From the far left end of the Lower Tier, follow the path, traversing about 100m around the contour line of the hill. At this point, both Ordinary Men Boulder and The Monolith Boulder should come into view - OMB above the path and up the hill to the right, and TMB below the path and down the hill to the slight left. TMB will most likely not be recognisable until you are closer though, as it has more rocks surrounding it.

History

History timeline chart

Discovered by Cameron Rodda in 2000 and written up in the NW Victoria guidebook as "T-Bone Totem", with very little information given, and only two very easy routes described.

Martin Lama also found this boulder around the same time, though unlike Cameron he was searching around Melbourne for potential bouldering after returning from Hueco Tanks. The majority of the established lines on the Monolith face were originally climbed by him back then before being rediscovered in 2015.

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb the high slab on the left.

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2015

Climb the centre of the highball slab on good holds.

FA: Rob Cotton, 2015

Start just right of the arete and head up the highball slab. Easy climbing on good holds. Possibly the same route as 'Flintstones Do The Hump'?

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2015

The right hand side of the northern, slabby side, just left of 'Arete'. Up to the ledge, then up water groove to top. (Originally graded 7, but was soloed, so changed to bouldering grades.)

FA: Cameron Rodda, 2000

Climb the high arete. SDS and avoid temptation to step left on ledge.

Eliminate independent of arête and any holds left of seam below. Pretty goey.

Climb the beautiful highball face. Stand start with opposing sidepulls and head up through crimps and underclings. At the roof, head out left. A classic highball. SDS using arête worthwhile at same grade. A route through the roof is inviting...

FA: Mike Hitchcock, 2015

Climbs around the seam before traversing left just before the roof to finish on the arete. Right arete of Fridge Hugger is off route.

Climb the refrigerator to either bail onto the chockstone or head up the exciting headwall.

Sit start goes at V1. Stand V0. Try to avoid using the chockstone on right on lower part of climb.

FA: Steve Duggan, 21 Mar 2015

To the right of 'Fridge Hugger', with horizontal crack 2m up. (Originally graded 6, but was soloed, so changed to bouldering grades.)

FA: Cameron Rodda, 2000

The crack around the back. Sit start on the sloping platform below the crack, using feet on the wall only, no standing on the platform. Up on crimps to the hand jam, then easily top out.

FA: Dave Scarlett, 17 Jan 2016

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Thu 25 May
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