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Magic bean

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 17

Seasonality

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Description

Walk along the track until the split, then head left for 50m then turn right and the magic bean is obvious and only 20m up hill from the track.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Routes

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Grade Route

Start on the biggest jug, up through the pocket the veer left

Start matched on the bottom of the rail with knees under the cave, mantle and up. Can finish as for Hump or more directly straight up

Start matched on the hump, then up right right to good hold then traverse left and link into 'Underbelly'

Start under the bean in the best finger slot. Traverse through roof and either up to right or directly up. Various harder starts further left, or further back under the cave.

Start at the Underbelly and link under through magic bean out other side.

About 20m behind (up the hill) from the problem Magic Bean is a large square boulder. The downhill arete is a pleasant problem but the landing is poor.

The left side of the arete has a technical start to reach the small flake. Starting on flakes on the left face, and traversing low to reach the arete adds a move or so.

Easy padding up the right side of the blunt arete.

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Thu 25 May
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