A small cliff on the west side of 'Mt Ngungun' perfect for beginner leaders with a heap of short, easy and well-protected sports routes in a quiet, shady location.
Since rebolting in 2014, the majority of climbs are protected by glue in ring bolts (RBs) or fixed hangers (FHs), and all climbs have their own double bolt belay (DBB) anchors. The four climbs in the "mini adventure" sector still have bolt runners (BRs, aka carrot bolts) and therefore require bolt hangers.
Being a relatively new crag there is some loose rock. Generally it's more pebbles than boulders but helmets, as always, are advisable.
Most of the initials at the start of the climbs have faded away. Two landmarks to get you oriented are the fused crack line in the groove in the middle of the cliff - this is 'Interstellar Journey' - and the biggest tree at the base - 'Lunar Eclipse' starts here. Climbs are listed from right to left.
This mountain is very popular. Stay on tracks, don't poo at crags.
Walk up the 'Mt Ngungun' tourist track from the carpark on Fullertons Rd. Pass over several sets of concrete stairs (changed following the 2019 track upgrade), till you arrive at this set of stairs with this signage next to it:
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Andromeda - PXL_20210326_224149866.jpg
This is the last switchback corner before reaching the 'Lower Cliffs'.
Continue straight ahead where a small path leads off from a gumtree tree in a NW direction around the mountain. You will know you are heading the right way when you see this sign (in about 50m).
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Follow it at the same contour for about 10 minutes until arriving at the cliff.
The path meets the cliff at its rightmost end, in front of "Absolute Zero". For this reason the climbs are listed from right to left (or South to North).
Please take care when exiting the crag, as some are creating a false track about 10m below the actual track. This topo may help orient you:
Andromeda - Exit track
Modern climbers establishing new routes have taken great pains to ensure any new routes do not interfere with the historic routes established many decades ago.
Retro-bolting of existing routes is unacceptable!
New routes shall make use of traditional protection where available.
Initially developed by Heinz Buscher 2010-2011.
Almost all routes were rebolted with EN959 hardware in 2014 in a major rebolting effort by Dave Reeve, Paul Amies, et al. The rebolting was funded by Safer Cliffs Qld and carried out under ACAQ Bolting Proposal BP006 submitted to and approved by QPWS.
The climbs on Legends Wall were added in 2014-2015 as a thank you to many big and small legends of the climbing community.
Did you know that you can create an account to record, track and share your climbing ascents? Thousands of climbers are already doing this.
Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9377779499658
Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.
Author(s): Simon Carter
Date: 2018
ISBN: 9780958079068
A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.
7 | ★★ Ignore Adam, This Way Is Better | ||
15 | ★ Interstellar Journey | ||
16 | ★ Solar Eclipse | ||
17 | ★ Horse Head Nebula | ||
18 | ★ Gravitational Equilibrium | ||
19 | ★ Worm Hole |
Jonathan Foley on ★ Graviton 18 - Jono leading Graviton
Jason de Beus at Andromeda - 13509106_1361723643841595_7122729049492751161_n.jpg
Andromeda - PXL_20210326_224211310.jpg
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