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Viz Area

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 6

Description

This area features a slabby buttress marked by a big stepped roof on its right half.

Access issues inherited from Grampians

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

A bit close to the hillside but OK.

The orange diagonal crack about 10 metres right of the roof-capped slab (2 metres right of Rake's Progress).

FA: Neil Barr & Peter Watlin, 2000

Slabby rib 3 metres right of "Out To Pasture"

FA: Keith Egerton (solo), 1978

Don't bother.

Start about 5 metres right of Tourist Party.

Up slabby rib to overhang. Go left and up the corner for a few metres then back right to finish up the rib.

FA: Peter Watling & Keith Lockwood, 1981

Climb up to the right side of the overhang. Step left through the overhang to the upper slab and go straight up.

Start: Start a couple of metres right of "Getafix" just left of the right edge of the main slab.

FA: Keith Egerton, 1978

This has a pretty hefty overhang for the grade.

Start 3 metres right of "Juggler> below a crack in the roof.

Climb straight up to the crack in the roof, over and up.

FA: Peter Treby & Peter Watling, 1978

A good climb. Start about 3 metres right of the arete, below a large step in the roof. Go straight up the slab into the bottomless corner. Move across the right wall onto the upper slab and finish straight up.

Another wanderer.

Start up the wide crack just right of Dangerous Driving or up the left arete of the slab just right again.

After the start, continue up the arete (as for Dangerous Driving to the overhang. Traverse left across the steep wall to a bulging crack and follow this.

FA: Peter Treby & Peter Watling, 1978

Weaves about wildly.

Start 2 metres left of the wide crack at the bottom right side of the steep wall.

Thin crack to slab. Follow arete on slab to overhang. Move right through overhang and up easily.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Alan Hope, 1982

Another short route.

The righthand of the two lines on the steep wall bounding the right side of the Tickled Pink slab.

FA: Keith Egerton, Heather Phillips & Kieran Loughran, 1982

Excellent short technical route.

The left of two lines up the nice wall on the right side of the Tickled Pink slab.

FA: Ian Anger & Kieran Loughran, 1985

Delightful but contrived.

Centre of the slab 3 metres right of "Slippery Dip" and left of steep wall.

FA: Peter Treby & Peter Watling, 1978

Contrived. Centre of narrow slab 5 metres around right of "Fringe Benefits"

FA: Peter Watling & Gabrielle Pellissier, 1978

Some good thin-crack climbing that isn't as escapable as it looks. Start as for Bottled Blue.

Climb 2 metres up the corner then take the crack on the right wall to the left-leading diagonal crack that parallels the edge of the slab above. Follow the diagonal until it rejoins the corner.

FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran. Easter, 1982

Easy wide corner 5 metres right of sebastian and just left of slabby area.

FA: Peter Cunningham & Rhonda Qoon, 1978

Crack 1 metres right of "Asterix"

FA: Gabrielle Pellissier & Peter Watling, 1978

Crack 6 metres right of "Sally Banner"

FA: Peter Watling, Gabrielle Pellissier & Keith Egerton, 1978

Open corner with oddly scooped overhangs at left end of cliff.

FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Egerton, Heather Phillips & Alan Hope. Easter, 1982

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

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Thu 25 May
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