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Cave Of Ghosts Cliffs

  • Grade context: AU
  • Photos: 3
  • Ascents: 41
  • Aka: Mini Castle Crag
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Description

The laziest climbing option in the Grampians? The two minute walk-in is sure to attract the sort of climber who enjoys a sleep in, a siesta and an afternoon nap before bed time. This lozenge shaped outcrop would be useful for beginner to intermediate climbing instruction as it is within easy walking distance from the campsite, is about 12 metres high, has several good routes on reasonable rock offering natural protection, can be set up for abseiling, and can be down climbed at about grade 6 (about 2 metres right of the north arête on the west side). This pillar is now totally climbed out – don't even think about contriving a new route!

© (nmonteith)

Access issues

A PV Designated Crag

© (nmonteith)

Approach

Refer to map one level up. The obvious free standing pillar is located about 100m south of the carpark at the Cave of 'Ghosts' Aboriginal art site. You walk past this obvious pillar on the way to the other crags in this area.

You can climb at any time of day due to the circular nature of the pillar. Just pick a shady side. To descend there are 2 bolts with a ring to rappel off close to the top of Automatic Runway. There are no other bolts on the pillar.

© (nmonteith)

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The descent ropute. Easy corner nearest the carpark. Colin Mibus used this route for ascent/descent eons ago with his .22 to frighten bunnies.

FA: Colin Mibus, 2000

Climb up left edge of smooth grey wall on the west side (approximately 4m from north arête) through left end of overhangs to finish via right hand of two cracks.

FA: Ben Wright & Nicky Eustace, 2003

Start in middle of west side and climb up slab and through weakness of main overhang (using hold up right) and finish through projecting shelf at top.

FA: Ben Wright & Nicky Eustace, 2003

6m right of Automatic Runway. Through the overhang and up the corner. Marke dby high white square.

FA: Ian Welsby & Colin Mibus, 1985

Start at 'Ghoulies' on the west side (1.5m left from the south arête) but move to the right through the middle and top bulges.

FA: Jack Lewis & Ben Wright, 2003

Easy start of the climb to smoothish round overhang, climb directly up, placing climb just left of Casper. Placements are scarce til high so the risk of a deck fall is high temporarily. Was originally done with only nuts and slings, hence the name. The last few metres are made a lot less risky with cams, but it's also an easy top out.

NA: Steele

FA: Tarik Vann, 3 Dec 2022

The hardest route here. Climb up just right of south arête to thin crack.

FA: Ben Wright, 2003

Summerday-style classic. Six metres right of 'Ghoulies'. Juggy line with the left kink at the end.

FA: Ian Welsby & Colin Mibus, 1989

Crack on wall on east side approximately 4m left of north arête.

FA: Nicky Eustace & Richard Eustace, 2003

Don't know the original name.

Start left of the cave and climb over it to the right. Get into the overhanging bit and get through it using jugs on the left. Topping out is a bit tricky.

Getting full value from limited resources! Circumnavigate the outcrop starting up Automatic Runway and following the break at mid-height going anticlockwise to the south arête (belay possible here) and continuing around to the start. Going clockwise looks feasible too and may be better.

FA: Ben Wright (solo), 2003

Route with single FH right of Spirits in the Sky.

North and approximately 45m directly uphill from the Mini 'Castle Crag' is this wall. This corner climb is situated about 12m right of the large cave. Marked by white square.

FA: Ian Welsby, Jane Welsby & Colin Mibus, 1985

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

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Thu 25 May
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