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Bad Cliche Boulder

Access: Climbing restrictions apply

According to the new Greater Gariwerd Landscapte Management Plan, climbing is no longer allowed at Andersens, except in the area Parks Victoria designates West Andersens - which presumably is the area on the slabs below Clicke Wall (PV is not very clear). You can see the plan and corresponding maps here: https://engage.vic.gov.au/gariwerd-management-plan

See warning details and discuss

Created 2 years ago

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Access issues inherited from Lower Clicke

There are no known access issues for the Lower Clicke area. This is part of Park Victoria's designated climbing area of West Andersens.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Routes

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Grade Route

sit start on good holds and climb the arête left of axe to grind

Start at good holds on the lip of the roof and make big moves to the horizontal seam and punch to the top.

Sit start on the right side of the scoop. Make a big move up the face to a crimp and big edge. Continue to the top.

Sit start on the left side of the low juggy break. Make a big move to the slopey pocket and top out up big holds.

Sit start on the right side of the low break and climb up the line of jugs.

Sit start on input flakes just right of Bad Call. Move up left to slopey features and up on jugs.

Start as for Ass Backwards and move up to slopey features. Dyno from here up right to the worn white jug on the face....like a boss! Top out. (Good holds used for Ass Backwards, up from the slopey feature are out - besides why would you not want to do the dyno?)

Direct eliminate version to As the Crow Flies (V6). Dyno from the start holds straight to the same hold you're jumping to on As the Crow Flies.

Sit start on the low rail and move up a series of dimples and slopers to crimps and jugs at the top. Hard for the grade - James didn't want it to be downgraded.

FA: James Kassay

Sit start on the blocky horizontal at the edge of the roof. Move up on good holds and veer left on good edges on the face and top out 1-2m right of As the Crow Flies.

Start as for Arm and a Leg and climb straight up the juggy seam.

Start as for Arm and a Leg and follow the diagonal weakness up right to jugs on the nose. Make hard moves up right to a thin incut edge and higher pocket and top out. Committing!

Climb Golden Oldie to the jugs on the arete and keep traversing right on good holds to a juggier, although pumpier, finish. Also quite a committing finish.

Sit start on the juggy holds under the roof. Move back to a bad undercling and make a hard move to the pocket on the arete. Finish up Golden Oldie.

Start back of cave with LH undercling jug and RH arete. Slap up arete and edges in roof. Give some beans to gain the arete and finish up glory jugs to top out. Stay tight to avoid dab. Recommend sweater over rock as crashpad. (Project #34 in guide).

📹 When in Rome

FA: James Campbell, 19 Nov 2022

Up the off-width crack 3m right of American Dream starting deep in the crack.

FA: Glen Hayford, 24 Apr 2022

Start at the right end of the face near the adjacent boulder with a low jug. Climb the face and arete.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

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Thu 25 May
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