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Juju Rock

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 7
17

Seasonality

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Description

One hell of a large and diverse rock. Has been described off-cuff as "possibly the best boulder in the Grampians"... 4 tall overhanging walls present over a dozen quality routes with unique character and beauty on some of the strongest rock found in the Halls Gap valley. Problems range from V2 to V12 and there are quality harder projects still on this rock!

Access issues inherited from The Secret Stash Boulders

PRIVATE PROPERTY: INVITE ONLY Routes described mainly for historical reference.

Approach

Live in Halls Gap for a few years and you might get shown where.

Ethic inherited from The Secret Stash Boulders

Boulders on PRIVATE PROPERTY. Climbing here is not allowed without express consent from the landowner.

History

History timeline chart

Discovered by Caillan S and Joshua B in around 2014. Climbed by many locals and a few travelling invites. One notable visitor was Nalle H.

Routes

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Grade Route

On the downhill side of the boulder, from far right traverse leftwards using the obvious sloping crack accross the overhanging wall and topout frighteningly at the tallest point of the face. Mega

FA: Oliver Miller, 2017

Start low in the centre of the steep overhanging face and magically float up the faux-holds that make this incredibly hard project. Was once tried by Finnish Powerhouse Nalle H. Very damn hard.

On the downhill face of the boulder, on the left side lies this project. Start low with bad underclings, move up through difficult slopers to topout. Super aesthetic & mega hard.

On the South Facing vertical wall, at the Eastern end. Start on side pull jug, climb rails up and right to an awkward topout, followed by a long easy scramble to the summit of Juju Rock.

FA: caillan sainsbury, 2015

On the South facing wall, traverse on obvious crimpy rail from far right to left finishing matched where the rail ends. A fantastic line for the grade.

FA: josh brown, 2015

Start at the end of Cocaine. Pull onto crimps, make a big move up to side pull. Continue up over bulge and slab with great technical movements.

FA: caillan sainsbury, 2016

Link Cocaine into Overdose. Long, pumpy, powerful, technical, awesome!

FA: caillan sainsbury, 2017

Start low left of Overdose on small crimps. Make a few powerful moves up over small holds leading to the start holds of Overdose, continue up.

FA: Ollie Miller, 2017

The fantastic short ripple-textured wall on the uphill face of the boulder, far right hand side. Start with the crimps at face height and campus until you can put your feet somewhere useful before topping out right. This is also the easiest way off the Juju Boulder as its not far to jump to the ground from the upper holds of Trippa Snippa.

FA: Ollie Miller, 2016

From the big rock to the right of TFOTL, pull on and climb rightwards over small technical holds to finish above Trippa Snippa. Eliminate the juggy rail up high, stay low and techy.

FA: Charlotte Garden, 2018

The moderate variant to TFOTL, still very worthwhile. Step off the boulder on the right pulling onto the first major sloper of TFOTL and continue up.

FA: caillan sainsbury, 2018

Climb the best part of Fat Mans Land through the two perfect slopers, then shamefully escape right to the ledge because you hate highballs and you climb in a gym too much. Could also be started as for The Fat Of The Land, but if you're that strong and you escape right then you deserve a paddling.

FA: 2018

The beefy main line of slopers going to the top of the uphill side of the boulder. Sit start on crimps and bad feet, climb up and right before big moves through the slopers and to the top.

FA: Ollie Miller, 2016

Just left of TFOTL is this mega project on fire orange bullet proof rock. Stand start on obvious side pull hold, beast your way up and left through a series of small holds and powerful movements. Was an Ollie Miller project when he was a Grampians man. Estimated V14~ish

Follow the long tall hanging corner from the far left end of the uphill side of the Juju Boulder. Hard moves have stopped all attempts at 1/3 height so far. Won't be impossibly hard in the end.

On the North facing wall, at the uphill side. Sit start below small rooflet, make some crap movements up and over it to gain a ledge 2m off the ground.

FA: caillan sainsbury, 2014

On the north facing wall, downhill end. Sit start on good holds, move up and left over bulge through slopers, crimps and pinches. Top out and scramble to the summit of the boulder.

FA: caillan sainsbury, 2018

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

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Thu 25 May
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