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The Snake Pit 🚫

Climbing in this area is closed.

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Access issues

Unfortunately, many boulder problems here climb directly over CH (quarrying) and this area will remain off-limits for climbing.

Ethic inherited from Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
Closed

Prominent R-leading flake-crack. Exit L on slabby ramp near top of crack.

Start: Start up R side of block.

FA: Chris Baxter, John Pawson & Meg Taylor, 1994

Closed

Looks chossy.

Start: The next line L of 'Brass Monkeys'. Start down L of low bush and climb up R to line.

FA: John Pawson, Chris Baxter & Meg Taylor, 1994

Closed

Highball (6 metres) slightly overhung face route. Crux is the first move (big) but a tricky finish awaits.

Closed
Closed

Old Klem Loskot project which was expected to be the hardest dyno in Australia; the FA went to Nalle Hukkataival and its status as hardest dyno may have been subsumed by a few hard problems Nalle put up in Buandik, 'Massive Dynamic' and 'Pigeon Superstition' at the Citadel.

FA: Nalle Hukkataival, 2011

Closed

A very long traverse starting from the big flake then motoring right along the horizontal weakness - finishing up 'John Deere'

Closed

A variant of the 'The Farmer Traverse'. Do the same start, then use the higher line of holds to finish on the sloper to the left of the finishing jug of 'The Farmer Traverse'.

A lot easier than the original?

Closed

Tricky warm up (or testpiece) starting from the big down-sloping 'jug' and climbing up via an obvious slopey pocket to the big finish break.

Closed

Sit start on the same holds as Caterpillar. Move left to a crimp and an edge before making a big move to the break.

Closed

Sit-start on the low flake and small arete hold - then up via a 'triangle' pinch hold to the big break. Originally given V4.

Closed
Closed

An 8-move traverse into a big dyno.

FA: Klem Loskot, 2000

Closed

A huge, technical dyno starting from a sit-start, then up to the big sloper and higher crimp - then the sharp lip jug. The hardest dyno in Australia?

FA: Klem Loskot, 1999

Closed

Another dynamic problem.

Wolf/Liew

Closed

Overgraded? jug haul starting from a sit-start then up the right-trending flakeline - to cut back left via a horizontal slot - then the top.

Closed

Starts as for 'Karl' - but keeps traversing right - to a big move for a lone crimp up and right - then the top. Beware of the thin lip holds!

Closed

Takes the obvious flakeline through the big roof (see pic below), uphill from 'Helmut'. Yet another dynamic problem.

FA: Bryn Hoskins, 2006

Closed
Closed

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

Date: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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