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Technically, only climbs L of Diazepam are available for LTO's to use. This is due (primarily) to a small quarry site around the middle of the wall - on the ground left the arch.
Access issues inherited from Summerday Valley
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While the whole of SDV is thought of as a LTO-only area, in reality LTO's are still only allowed to use small sections of wall: Back Wall, L side of Wall of Fools and Barc cliff (which is listed under Hollow Mt).
While there's at least 2 areas of Cultural Heritage (one minor quarrying site, and rock scatters that were discovered after the 2014 Bushfires); it is understood that SDV is a good example of Intangible Cultural Heritage. Traditional Owners feel that the place is special to them, and they do not want climbers there (except Tour Operators are ok, as they have signed a "Permit to Harm" document).
©Ethic inherited from Grampians
Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.
===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.
For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Steve Toal
Date: 2019
The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.
Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.
Author(s): Steve Toal
Date: 2019
The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.
Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.
Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons
Date: 2016
ISBN: 9780646955544
"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"
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Nearby Icons
| 15 | ★★ Flake of Fear | ||
| 21 | ★★★ Soweto | ||
| 24 | ★★ Arch Enema | ||
| 25 | ★★ Diazepam | ||
| 28 | ★★★ Milupa |
Photos Browse all photos
JJ on ★★ Diazepam 25 - I hope that nut is in, 'cause that rings a long way down.
Wall of Fools - Wall of Fools TSchoo Feb 2014
Adam on ★★ Arch Enema 24 - IMG_6130.jpg
Thu 25 May
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